Even after an amazing winter week in Finland, visiting Helsinki and Finnish Lapland, we weren’t quite done with winter travel yet!
We decided to squeeze in one last winter trip before the snow melted, and spent 5 days in mid-March in the French Alps, in the Haute Savoie region. It’s an interesting time to visit– the swoony, jagged peaks are still totally covered with snow, but in the valleys, the air is beginning to carry the first hints of spring, and temperatures can vary quite widely depending on where you are. The weather we experienced was quite a whirlwind, and we pretty much experienced all 4 seasons while we were there.
Flying into Lyon‘s St-Exupery Airport, we picked up our rental car and spent a day exploring the historic city and its “traboules.” We then made the trek to our lodgings in Les Contamines-Montjoie, a ski town about 2.5 hours away. The rest of the trip flew by in a whirlwind of skiing and outdoor fun, with visits to towns like Chamonix, Annecy, and a quick last stop in Grenoble before heading back home. While the weather can certainly be a bit unpredictable, we can’t wait to come back to this particular corner of our beloved Alps.
Everything you need to know for your trip can be found by reading on– packing lists, weather forecasts, driving tips, and all the best things to do in each place!
Packing for March in the Alps is quite a conundrum. We actually didn’t pack as well as we could have, as we really didn’t anticipate the temperature changes between the spring-like valleys and the still deep-winter peaks.
In Lyon, we were sweating like crazy in wool sweaters. In Les Contamines-Montjoie, it snowed for a full 24 hours without stopping. In Annecy, it was so windy that it felt 10 degrees colder than it was.
Ahh yes, the joys of “shoulder season.” Just in case it helps, here are the typical temperature ranges for the stops we made, but keep in mind that the “RealFeel” in the mountains changes drastically based on wind and sun.
Location | Low (Avg) | High (Avg) |
|
Lyon | 4°C | 13°C | Spring is starting. Expect damp mornings and mild afternoons. |
Annecy | 2°C | 11°C | Crisp lakeside air. It feels cooler than Lyon due to the water. |
Chamonix | -3°C | 8°C | Classic alpine winter-spring mix. Snow is still on the ground. |
Les Contamines | -5°C | 6°C | High-altitude chill. Brisk mornings, perfect for “blue bird” skiing. |
Aiguille du Midi* | -15°C | -8°C | At the 3,842m summit it never thaws! |
Similar to our Finland trip, smart layering is the way to go. We used our base layers daily (like HeatTech from UNIQLO or the Capilene Thermal from Patagonia), and then added a fleece or wool sweater from there and ski jackets on top.
For skiing and walking around town, we found ski pants to be a good choice to stay dry. For visiting towns like Chamonix, Annecy, or Lyon, a wool sweater and jeans is a better option, to be a bit more “chic.”
It’s also good to pack Vaseline for chapped hands, lips, and face from the cold, as well as a refillable water bottle — the tap water is absolutely delicious!
Getting There
Getting from Lyon-Saint Exupéry (LYS) to the Alps is very smooth, but there are a few “pro-tips” to keep in mind.
The rental car center at LYS is not attached to the terminals. You have to take a free shuttle bus (called a navette) from outside Terminal 1 or 2. It runs every 10–15 minutes and takes about 5 minutes to reach the lot. At the counter, ensure you have winter tires, because the “Loi Montagne” (Mountain Law) is in effect from November 1 to March 31. This means that it is legally required to have winter tires (marked with 3PMSF/Snowflake) or snow chains in your trunk when entering the Haute-Savoie region! Most rentals at LYS include these by default in March, but double-check at the counter. We actually didn’t have winter tires on our rental, so we had to add them when we arrived.
If you’re going to the Contamines area like we did, you will primarily take the A43 (Autoroute de la Maurienne) toward Chambéry/Annecy, then merge onto the A40 (Autoroute Blanche) toward Geneva/Chamonix. It is approximately 2 hours and 15 minutes (about 210km) to Les Contamines, but this really depends on the traffic – try to clear Lyon’s ring road before 4:30 PM to avoid the local commuter rush and avoid heading up there on Fridays, when everyone else is heading up there, too! Lastly, French highways are fantastic, but not cheap. Expect to pay around €25–€30 in tolls each way. Most booths are automated and accept tap-to-pay credit cards, but you can also pay with cash.
Recommended Reading
5 Days in the French Alps
And now… the itinerary!
Day 1: Lyon
Quick history:
Founded by the Romans in 43 BC as “Lugdunum”, Lyon served as the capital of the Three Gauls and a vital strategic hub at the confluence of the Rhône and Saône rivers. You can still see this ancient legacy in the remarkably preserved Roman theaters on Fourvière Hill. By the Renaissance, Lyon had transformed into a European powerhouse of trade and intellect, becoming the center of the continent’s silk industry. This “Golden Age” gave birth to the unique traboules—hidden passageways designed to protect delicate silk from the elements—and a labyrinthine Old Town that remains one of the largest and best-preserved Renaissance quarters in the world.
In the 19th and 20th centuries, Lyon’s identity became defined by resilience and innovation. It was the site of the Canute revolts, some of the world’s first organized labor uprisings, as silk workers fought for fair wages in the face of industrialization, as well as the capital of the French Resistance during World War II. Today, Lyon is perhaps best-known as the world’s gastronomic capital, where the legacy of the “Mères Lyonnaises”—the female chefs who pioneered its hearty, traditional cuisine—continues to influence the global culinary stage.
Things to do:
- Lyon’s most famous architectural quirks are its ±40 Traboules. Derived from the Latin trans-ambulare (to pass through), these are secret covered passageways that allowed 16th-century silk weavers (canuts) to transport delicate fabrics through the city without exposing them to rain or sun. Don’t miss the “Longue Traboule” at 54 Rue Saint-Jean, and you can visit Brochier Soieries to see traditional looms and learn how silkworms literally built this city.
- Vieux Lyon (Old Town) is a UNESCO World Heritage site and one of the largest Renaissance quarters in Europe.
- Fourvière Hill: Known as the “Hill that Prays.” Skip the funicular and take the Montée des Gourguillon. It is one of the oldest streets in Lyon, lined with 15th-century houses. At the top sits the Basilica of Notre-Dame de Fourvière, a 19th-century mosaic-clad masterpiece built to thank the Virgin Mary for saving the city from cholera.
- Gallo-Roman Theaters: Two massive ancient stone theaters built into the hillside that are still used for performances today.
- Les Halles de Lyon Paul Bocuse: An indoor food market named after France’s most famous chef. It’s the “Sistine Chapel of Food”—perfect for cheese and charcuterie tastings.
- Eat at a certified Bouchon. Originally small inns for silk workers, they serve “nose-to-tail” cuisine. Order: Quenelle de Brochet (a pike soufflé) or Cervelle de Canut (herbed cheese dip, literally “weaver’s brains”).
Day 2: Ski Day - Les Contamines-Montjoie
Quick history:
While resorts like Courchevel feel like luxury malls, Les Contamines-Montjoie remains a traditional farming village. It sits at the end of a “cul-de-sac” valley, meaning zero through-traffic—just mountains and stars. The name comes from “Contamines,” meaning ploughable land on a squire’s estate. Unlike the flashy purpose-built resorts nearby, it has preserved 70% of its original farmhouse architecture.
What to do:
We chose to stay here to check out some skiing, and we were not disappointed by our options. Les Contamines is known for being exceptionally scenic and less “posh” than nearby Megève. It has a great snow record because many slopes are north-facing. There are a lot of green and blue slopes that are good for advanced beginners and intermediates. Truth be told, the slopes were a bit too advanced for Tegan, who is more of an early to intermediate beginner — it’s good to keep in mind that the Alps are quite steep!
For those advanced beginners, we’d stay on the Ètape side. There are very gentle green runs and “zen” zones as well as the “Boulevard des Greniers,” a long, flat-ish blue that snakes through the trees—very pretty and zero “drop-off” anxiety. If you’re more advanced, you can also peel off to do the red runs like Tierces or Veleray, which are right next to those blue runs, so it’s easy to meet back up at the lift or for hot chocolate.
If you aren’t skiing, the town still has a lot to offer in terms of restaurants and mountain views, and the walk to Notre-Dame de la Gorge is highly recommended. This 17th-century chapel sits at the end of an ancient Roman road. For 900 years, a hermit lived here to welcome travelers crossing the high passes into Italy. The chapel was unfortunately being renovated when we visited, but hopefully it won’t be when you do!
There is a Carrefour Montagne and a SPAR right in the city center, as well as loads of restaurants serving crêpes and Savoyard cuisine. We had a lovely dinner at Le Carnotzet right in the center of town.
Day 3: Chamonix
Quick history:
For much of its history, Chamonix was a secluded valley of humble mountain farmers and a 1091 Benedictine priory, where locals lived in fear of the “cursed” glaciers and high peaks. The valley’s transformation began in 1741 when two Englishmen, William Windham and Richard Pococke, “discovered” the Mer de Glace. Their published accounts of the “Sea of Ice” ignited a European obsession with the Alps, turning a remote agricultural community into a hub for scientists, Romantic-era poets like Byron and Shelley, and the world’s first “tourists.” The successful first ascent of Mont Blanc in 1786 by locals Jacques Balmat and Michel Paccard formally established Chamonix as the birthplace of mountaineering, leading to the creation of the world-famous Compagnie des Guides in 1821.
The 20th century saw Chamonix transition from a summer hiking destination to a year-round sports titan. The arrival of the railway in 1901 allowed winter access for the first time, and in 1924, the town catapulted onto the global stage by hosting the first-ever Winter Olympic Games! This event shifted the focus from transportation to recreation, sparking the construction of legendary infrastructure like the Aiguille du Midi cable car. Today, while it has evolved into a cosmopolitan resort with over 5 million annual visitors, Chamonix retains its rugged soul, serving as a sanctuary for those who seek to experience the raw, unyielding power of the “Roof of Europe.”
Things to do:
- Aiguille du Midi: A record-breaking cable car that whisks you to 3,842m. When completed in 1955, it was the highest in the world, and remains the highest in France. Stand on the “Step into the Void” glass skywalk for a 1,000m vertical drop beneath your feet.
Full disclosure: we didn’t do this — it costs 80€ per person, which was a bit too expensive for us. However, it’s considered to be the top attraction in the area! - Chamonix Town: Walk the Rue du Docteur Paccard (the main pedestrian street). Look for the statue of Paccard and Balmat, the first men to summit Mont Blanc in 1786.
- Extra Tip: Mer de Glace & Montenvers Train: Take the charming 1908 red cogwheel train to France’s largest glacier. Visit the Ice Caves carved into the glacier and the Glaciorium to see the history of climate change in the Alps. Tip: this is also a good alternative to the Aiguille du Midi if the rapid ascent is too much for your ears (or your nerves.)
Extra stop: Saint-Nicolas de Véroce
The Secret View: Visit Saint-Nicolas de Véroce on your way back to Les Contamines-Montjoie. This tiny (tiny!) hamlet has a “Baroque Trail” church with an interior of deep blues and golds that is so dreamy!
Sitting on the village terrace, you are face-to-face with the Dôme du Goûter—it’s considered one of the most majestic views of Mont Blanc out there. We loved it!
Day 4: Annecy
Quick history:
Annecy’s history began over 5,000 years ago with the Neolithic settlers who built stilt houses over the lake. During the Middle Ages, the city’s identity was forged by the Counts of Geneva, who made Annecy their capital in the 13th century after being ousted from Geneva by its powerful bishops. This led to the construction of the iconic Château d’Annecy, which still looms over the city today. By 1401, the region was integrated into the Duchy of Savoy, and Annecy flourished as a strategic hub. In the 16th century, it earned the nickname “Rome of the Alps” when it became a bastion of the Catholic Counter-Reformation, welcoming exiled clergy from Protestant Geneva and becoming the home of the influential Saint Francis de Sales.
Later, the more-famous moniker “the Venice of the Alps” emerged from the medieval engineering of the Thiou River, one of Europe’s shortest rivers, which was channeled into a series of canals to power the city’s mills, forges, and textile workshops. These waterways were the industrial heart of the city until the 19th century when Annecy transitioned into a premier tourist destination.
Things to do:
- Le Palais de l’Île: The 12th-century “stone ship” in the middle of the canal. It has functioned as a mint, a courthouse, and a prison—it is the most photographed landmark in the region.
- Château d’Annecy: A fortified castle overlooking the city. Once the residence of the Counts of Geneva, it now houses a museum of regional art and alpine history.
- The Lake Promenade: Walk through the Jardins de l’Europe and cross the Pont des Amours (Bridge of Lovers). Legend says if two lovers kiss on the bridge, they will be together forever.
- The Sunday Market: A sprawling, colorful market in the Old Town canals where you can buy local Reblochon cheese and Savoyard honey directly from farmers.
Day 5: Grenoble
Quick history:
Nestled at the confluence of the Isère and Drac rivers and surrounded by three massive mountain ranges—the Vercors, Chartreuse, and Belledonne—Grenoble has been a strategic gateway to the Alps for over 2,000 years. Originally a small Gallic village named Cularo, it was fortified by the Romans and renamed Gratianopolis in honor of Emperor Gratian in 381 AD, from which its modern name evolved. For centuries, it served as the proud capital of the Dauphiné, an independent state that only became part of France in 1349. This history left a legacy of “rebel spirit,” most famously seen in 1788 during the Day of the Tiles, when citizens pelted royal troops with roof tiles to protest the king’s overreach—an event some historians consider the opening spark of the French Revolution.
In the modern era, Grenoble transformed from a center of the glove-making and hydropower industries into a global hub for science and technology. It hosted the 1968 Winter Olympics, which modernized the city’s infrastructure and introduced its iconic “bubble” cable cars. During World War II, the city’s rugged surroundings made it a stronghold for the French Resistance, earning it the title “Companion of the Liberation” from Charles de Gaulle. Today, it is known as Europe’s “flattest city” despite being surrounded by peaks– great for walkers like us! It balances its high-tech identity as a center for nuclear research and nanotechnology with a youthful energy fueled by one of France’s largest student populations.
Things to do:
- The Bastille Bubbles: The Téléphérique is an icon of the city. Opened in 1934, it was the world’s first urban cable car! At the top sits a 19th-century fort with a labyrinth of tunnels and defense walls designed to guard the border with the Kingdom of Sardinia.
We were crushed that this was closed the day that we visited, but you absolutely should check it out when you’re there. - Musée de Grenoble: One of France’s most prestigious art museums outside of Paris, featuring everything from Egyptian antiquities to Picasso and Matisse.
- Vieille Ville (Old Town): Wander through Place Saint-André to see the Palace of the Parliament of Dauphiné, a Gothic-Renaissance masterpiece that was the center of regional power for centuries.
- Extra tip: The Mandrin Caves: a series of underground passages named after a famous 18th-century “Robin Hood” smuggler who used the rugged terrain to evade tax collectors.
We hope you enjoyed this guide and that is was helpful and encouraging for you in planning your visit to the French Alps.
