We were so fortunate to spend a week in Bulgaria with friends, a place bursting with history, natural beauty, and a vibrant cultural and gastronomic scene.
If Bulgaria isn’t already on your radar, it should be!
With swoony mountains everywhere you look, tons of hiking trails, mouthwatering fresh produce, cheese, and local dishes, and the ability to stay quite budget-friendly, you should definitely prioritize a trip to this gem of a place soon.
For our first visit, we started and ended in Bulgaria’s two largest cities, capital Sofia and quaint Plovdiv, with lots of nature in between in the Rila and Pirin mountain areas. Unfortunately, we’ll have to leave the Black Sea coast and the northern reaches of the country for next time, but we were still able to pack quite a lot into a few days!
Note that how much we were able to do is largely due to having access to a car while we were there. While there are certainly train and bus connections around Bulgaria, this particular itinerary is best suited to driving.
For a sneak peek…
Starting from charming Sofia, this itinerary will take you through the majestic Rila Mountains for hiking, soaking in thermal springs in Sapareva Banya, and a visit to the breathtaking UNESCO World Heritage site Rila Monastery, onward to the town of Bansko, known for its ski resorts and spa hotels, and concluding in leafy Plovdiv, one of Europe’s oldest continuously-inhabited cities, complete with ancient ruins, a thriving arts scene, and a cozy and walkable city center.
We had an absolute blast on this trip, and found it to be a great mix of hiking, saunas and cold plunges, enjoying Bulgarian cuisine, and urban exploring. We are so grateful to our Bulgarian friends for the world-class itinerary and loads of fun experiences, and we can’t wait to go back.
Bulgaria’s long and rich history is marked by periods of conquest, cultural flourishing, and bearing witness to significant geopolitical shifts.
The area was originally inhabited by the Thracians, an Indo-European people known for their advanced culture and craftsmanship, and became part of the Roman Empire in the 1st century AD. The Romans brought infrastructure and urbanization that you can still see today in cities like Sofia (called Serdica by the Romans) and Plovdiv.
In 681 AD, Khan Asparuh founded the First Bulgarian Empire, which became a powerful entity in Southeastern Europe. It saw the spread of Christianity under Boris I and cultural advancements during the reign of Simeon the Great, but fell to the Byzantines in 1018, leading to nearly two centuries of Byzantine control.
Following a successful rebellion, the Second Bulgarian Empire was established by the brothers Asen and Peter. It reached its zenith under Tsar Ivan Asen II, known for military victories and cultural prosperity. Unfortunately, the empire gradually weakened and fell to the Ottoman Turks in 1396, initiating almost five centuries of Ottoman rule, still a much-discussed topic in Bulgaria today. During this period, Bulgaria experienced cultural and religious suppression, although it retained its national identity through folklore and the Orthodox Church– something you can see particularly powerfully at places like the Rila Monastery.
By the 18th and 19th centuries, Bulgaria was experiencing a period of cultural and educational revival, characterized by the rise of Bulgarian literature, education, and the quest for independence in this “National Revival” period. Following the Russo-Turkish War (1877-1878), Bulgaria regained its autonomy with the Treaty of San Stefano and later the Treaty of Berlin, which established the Principality of Bulgaria. In 1908, Bulgaria declared full independence from the Ottoman Empire, becoming the Kingdom of Bulgaria.
Bulgaria participated in both World Wars, aligning with the Central Powers in WWI and the Axis Powers in WWII. Post-WWII, Bulgaria became a communist state under Soviet influence, which can still be seen in the architecture of certain areas of cities like Sofia. The fall of communism in 1989 led to democratic reforms, economic transition, and Bulgaria’s eventual membership in NATO (2004) and the European Union (2007). As of March 2024, Bulgaria has just joined the Schengen Area! So it is now possible to fly there without border immigration protocols, which makes traveling there even easier.
Getting There & Staying There
Bulgaria has several main airports that serve both domestic and international flights:
- Sofia Airport (SOF): Bulgaria’s primary international airport, located in its capital, Sofia, this is the most likely option if you’re coming from Europe or abroad, there’s a fantastic and inexpensive metro into Sofia’s city center.
- Plovdiv Airport (PDV): Located in Plovdiv, there are more limited international flights, primarily from other European cities. Worth checking out to see if the fares are better depending on where you’re visiting from.
- Varna Airport (VAR): Serves the northeastern coast, near the Black Sea city of Varna, this is more likely for seasonal flights from various European destinations and is particularly popular in summer.
- Burgas Airport (BOJ): Similar to Varna’s airport, the Burgas Airport serves Bulgaria’s southeastern coast, near the Black Sea city of Burgas, and is more likely in summertime as well.
We flew into Sofia to kick off our trip, and took the metro to the city center from the airport. This cost about 0.80€ and was super fast and easy. Once in the city center, we really recommend the Oborishte neighborhood to stay in. Part of the historic city center, it’s super walkable, with 20th century Art Deco and Secession-style buildings, hip shops and cafes, and lots of historic renovations going on. Another option is staying near the Serdica metro stop, which also gives you easy access to the city center but feels much more “city center-esque”.
As mentioned above, we recommend renting a car for this itinerary. While this is technically doable via public transit, the connection times don’t always correspond and you’ll lose a lot of time traveling. Other than in Sofia, parking is easy to find and largely included with hotel stays, and rental options are quite economical. As you all know, we avoid renting cars on 99% of our travels, but we’d definitely say that a car is good to have here.
Note that despite being in the EU, Bulgaria’s local currency is the Bulgarian Lev (BGN). We recommend having some cash on hand if possible, as we ran into a few situations where the POS systems were down or where cash was preferable. Some establishments will accept euros, but this is largely a sign that you’re in a touristic area.
When to Visit
There’s something for everyone at any time of the year in Bulgaria, but a few things to note depending on your preferences. We visited during the summertime and had an absolutely wonderful time hiking, swimming, and enjoying meals outdoors. It certainly gets toasty during the summer season, but we really enjoyed it. On the other hand, if you’re more of a skier, winter is definitely your best bet.
Here’s a quick breakdown, so you can prioritize accordingly:
Spring (March to May), 35-72°F (2-22°C)
- Mild weather, blooming flowers, fewer tourists, ideal for sightseeing and outdoor activities, but cooler nights, more rain, and not ideal for swimming or hiking, as trails may be snowy and/or muddy. You may be able to catch the end of ski season, with potential for spring skiing in a more quiet atmosphere than the winter peak, but it’s a largely transitional period, and some facilities might close after ski season ends.
Summer (June to August), 52-80°F (11-27°C)
- Ideal for hiking and outdoor activities, with beautiful mountain scenery and longer days, but much larger crowds. Cities like Plovdiv and Sofia can get very hot (up to 35°C/90°F), but it usually stays cooler in the mountains.
Autumn (September to November), 33-65°F (1-18°C)
- Pleasant weather, beautiful fall foliage, and fewer tourists, but snowfalls can start as early as November, making activities like hiking and horseback riding a bit more touch-and-go.
Winter (December to February), 20-42°F (-6-2°C)
- Ideal for winter sports like skiing and snowshoeing, with beautiful snowy landscapes and loads of winter fun to be had, but it gets extremely crowded and expensive in places like Bansko. If you’re seeking a splurge, Bansko is a top ski destination, with excellent facilities and a vibrant après-ski scene– but it’ll definitely cost you!
The Perfect Week in Bulgaria - 7 Day Starter Itinerary
There are loads of things to do in Bulgaria, and, as we said before, this post mainly focuses on Sofia, Bansko, Rila Mountains and surroundings, and Plovdiv. We are so excited to share this itinerary with you, and equally excited to go back to Bulgaria to check out the seaside and the north of the country next time.
Day 1-2: Sofia
Sofia, the capital of Bulgaria, is a super hip city located at the foot of Vitosha Mountain, which you can see from various vantage points from the city center.
Sofia has roots tracing back to the ancient Thracians, followed by Roman, Byzantine, and Ottoman influences, which are evident in its diverse architectural styles.
One of the best places to see this is in its religious places– particularly in the area known as “The Square of Religious Tolerance.” Here, places of worship for four major religions are in sight of each other, right in the bustling city center! An Eastern Orthodox church, the Hagia Nedelya; a Roman Catholic cathedral, St Joseph’s Cathedral; the Banya Bashi Mosque; and the Sofia Synagogue.
All are worth a peek for different reasons– the Hagia Nedelya was blown up in 1925 in an (unsuccessful) attempt to assassinate the king, Boris III, and was rebuilt largely in the same style as it looked previously. Allied bombing raids destroyed St. Joseph’s Cathedral in 1944, so the modern church you see today dates back to 2006. Banya Bashi is the only remaining active mosque in Sofia, dating back to the 1570s, and is absolutely stunning. Fun fact: it was built by the Ottoman architect Mimar Sinan, who also built the swoony Sultanahmet (Blue Mosque) in Istanbul. Sofia Synagogue, thought to be the largest synagogue in Southeast Europe, has beautiful Moorish Revival architecture.
Of course, no visit to Sofia would be complete without checking out the iconic symbol of the city, the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral, with its stunning Orthodox architecture and golden domes. It’s also lovely to see lit up at night! The Cathedral is absolutely massive, but its somewhat sleek lines make it seem more welcoming and less imposing than other churches of its size. The area around the Cathedral is blocked for cars, which really allows you to get a great look at its grandeur from all angles.
While here, also be sure to stroll along Vitosha Boulevard, a bustling pedestrian street filled with shops, cafes, and restaurants, and visit the National Palace of Culture, a hub for exhibitions and events. While we were there, the Balkan Wine Festival was happening, which was a super fun addition to our itinerary. You can also check out Tsentralni Hali (the Central Market Hall), a vibrant indoor market offering a variety of local products, nearby, and don’t miss walking by the archaeological complex at Ancient Serdica, showcasing Sofia’s Roman heritage.
If you have a rainy day, Sofia has several awesome museums to check out. The National Museum of History, Bulgaria’s largest museum, showcases the country’s rich history from prehistoric times to the present. The Museum of Socialist Art is dedicated to the art and propaganda from Bulgaria’s socialist period, and is also worth a visit. On the other hand, a sunny day is the perfect opportunity for a visit or a picnic in Borisova Gradina, Sofia’s oldest and grandest park.
As mentioned above, we really enjoyed staying in the Oborishte neighborhood. It’s still super centrally located, but feels really cozy and hip. We had a great stay (not sponsored) at Ruby Red House and definitely recommend it, particularly if you need parking and a flexible check-in time.
Day 3: Sofia to Rila Mountains
Get an early start to drive to the Rila Monastery. Located about 120 km (75 miles) south of Sofia, the monastery is accessible by car or by bus tour. Note that parking is limited and this stunning place is understandably very popular to visit, so we’ll reiterate that an early start is necessary. Also note that modest clothing is required to enter the monastery– no tank tops, shorts, low-cut tops, etc. This was absolutely a highlight of the trip for us, and we can’t recommend it enough.
For a bit of background, the Rila Monastery is the largest and most famous Eastern Orthodox monastery in Bulgaria. This is truly a cultural and spiritual treasure, and anyone fortunate to visit will see why instantly. Founded in the 10th century by Saint Ivan of Rila, a hermit (whose cave can still be visited nearby) canonized by the Orthodox Church, the monastery has played a crucial role in preserving Bulgarian culture and religion through the centuries. It became a center for spiritual education and literacy, especially during the Ottoman period, when Bulgarian culture was suppressed. Reconstructed after a fire in 1833, the monastery’s current buildings date largely from this period, and it was declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 1983.
There are a few architectural highlights to keep an eye out for here:
- Hrelyo’s Tower, a defensive tower built in the 14th century, is the oldest preserved structure at the monastery
- Main Church (called the Nativity of the Virgin), you’ll love its stunning frescoes and wood-carved iconostasis. You can’t take pictures inside, but be sure to (quietly) go in to take a look.
- Residential and administrative monastic wings, which form a large quadrangle surrounding the central courtyard and surrounding the church. About 60 monks still live there.
- Ecclesiastical Museum (costs extra, but worth it), which houses valuable manuscripts, religious artifacts, and quite a treat– a famous wood-carved cross by monk Rafail, which is intricately detailed with over 100 tiny religious scenes. It’s said that he went blind carving this, and you’ll be able to see why.
Before you leave, make sure to indulge in some mekitsa, a fried dough made famous by the monks here and served hot and fresh. You have your pick of condiments to place on top (jam, honey, cheese, powdered sugar), and honestly… we recommend all of them! Trust us, you won’t want to eat just one 😉
In the afternoon, drive about an hour to Sapareva Banya, a small town in the southwestern part of the country, renowned for its hot mineral springs. The town dates back to Roman times, when it was known as Germanea. The Romans recognized and utilized the therapeutic properties of its mineral springs… and you will, too!
Sapareva Banya is famous for having the hottest mineral spring in Bulgaria, and is home to the only active geyser in continental Europe, which erupts every few hours. With water temperatures reaching up to 103°C (217°F), a soak at one of the springs in town is absolutely a must!
While a variety of hotels, guesthouses, and spa resorts are available, we had an absolutely fabulous stay at 103 Degrees, and really enjoyed their facilities and on-site restaurant.
Day 4: Rila Mountains to Bansko
Get (another) early start to drive up to the parking lot for the 7 Rila Lakes. This is really a treat, and is a super popular activity for a reason. Offering stunning alpine scenery and crystal-clear glacial lakes, paired with a chairlift and fun alpine lodge and lots of options for extensions, hikes, and vistas, it was definitely another highlight of our visit and something you absolutely can’t leave the area without doing.
The parking area is about a half hour drive from Sapareva Banya (quite close as the crow flies, but the going can be a bit slow on the winding mountain roads.)
You have two options here. Due to some weather conditions, we actually did both, so we can advise accordingly!
Option 1: Full hike
Your first option is to hike up to the Rila Lakes Hut via the beautiful Skakavitsa Waterfall, the highest waterfall in the Rila Mountains. To do it this way, park at the Zeleni Preslap parking area, which is accessible from Panichishte by continuing by car along the road (in the direction of the Pionerska hut), and about a kilometer before the hut, a narrow asphalt deviation to the right of the road leads to the Zeleni Preslap parking area. From there, you continue on foot.
The path follows a dirt road through the forest, then turns to the right. The Skakavitsa Hut is reached after an hour, where you can refill your water bottle with fresh, delicious, ice-cold water.
The route then continues along a path to the right of the hut, which in about 30 minutes leads you to the foot of the waterfall. You can then trek back down to the hut to continue upwards via the path of the cable car (red blazes), which leads you to the Rila Hut. You can then trek up to the Rila Lakes from there (more detail on that below.)
Option 2: Ski lift + hike
Your second option is to take the ski lift from Panichishte to the 7 Lakes directly, and then take the trail length of your choice from there up to the panoramic views of the lakes.
The chairlift ride takes approximately 20-25 minutes each way and offers the most stunning panoramic views of the surrounding mountains and forests, you will truly be astonished!
Be warned this is an extremely popular activity, particularly on nice summer days. The lines for the ticket booth and for the ski lift get really long and there’s a decent amount of jockeying for position 😉Pro tip: make sure you have cash! The POS system went down when we were there, and luckily a kind family lent us some cash, otherwise we wouldn’t have been able to go. Note that there is no ATM there– the closest one is back down in Sapareva Banya.
The Lakes are an absolute must-see, whichever way you do it. Once you reach the top of the ski lift, you can get started right away on the hiking portion– the trail passes by or near each of the 7 Rila Lakes, named for their distinct shapes and sizes, such as the Twins, the Tear, the Eye, and the Kidney.
You start out by trekking up to the first two lakes on a fairly steep incline, and from there, you can continue to other viewpoints, culminating in a viewpoint of all 7 lakes, or you can turn back at any time.
Regardless, you’ll enjoy breathtaking views of alpine meadows, rocky peaks, and serene glacial lakes, surrounded by rugged mountain terrain. We ended up doing a full loop back to the hut and we absolutely loved it– we were able to see so much more scenery and mountain views than if we’d done the out-and-back, and the loop trail had way fewer people.
A few things to note regardless:
- People of all ages, fitness levels, and experience do this hike. It gets very crowded and there may be points where you need to be patient with fellow hikers.
- We saw lots of inappropriate footwear choices! We definitely recommend hiking boots regardless, but these are absolutely a must if you want to continue past the first 2 lakes. Many people were wearing more “fashion” sneakers, and there’s lots of loose gravel and pretty steep inclines, so it’s better to have ankle protection and good tread on your shoes.
- For “Lowlanders” like us (living below sea level in Amsterdam), it’s good to note that this hike reaches altitudes of around 2,100-2,500 meters (6,900-8,200 feet), so it’s a good idea to pace yourself and stay hydrated to avoid feeling ill or too winded. The air definitely feels thinner than in the parking area up here!
- The Rila Lakes Hut offers lots of nice amenities such as food, drinks, and restrooms (note that you need cash on hand to use them.) The food is really inexpensive (we spent around 9€ for meals for 3 people!) and warm and delicious– the perfect culmination to your hike.
- Check the weather forecast before starting the hike! Conditions can change quickly in the mountains– on our first attempt, we had beautiful blue skies at the waterfall and total pea soup by the time we made it to the top of the chairlift. Luckily we were able to come back early the next morning, because if there’s fog cover it’s almost impossible to see anything.
- Dress in layers, as it can be quite cold even in peak summer, particularly on the chairlift. It’s also a good idea to bring rain gear just in case a storm rolls in. We were very grateful to have rain jackets with us.
Once you’ve finished up at the lakes, you can take the chairlift or hike back down to the parking area.
From here, drive to Bansko (approximately 1.5 hours), one of Bulgaria’s largest and most popular ski resorts, which is a great summer destination as well if you like the off-season experience.
We had a great stay at Lucky Bansko, and got an absolute steal on 5-star accommodations due to the fact that summer is the low season. Their spa facilities are absolutely top-notch, and spending an afternoon at the sauna, cold plunge, and saline pools was the perfect post-hike relaxation.
Even better, we had the place almost entirely to ourselves. Regardless, note that it’s a good idea to book their spa services in advance (if you’re interested in something like a hammam, mani/pedi, massage, etc.), as they get booked out. However, you’ll still have an absolutely amazing time even if you don’t book any extras– the pools and saunas are definitely sufficient for ultimate relaxation.
In the evening, you can explore Bansko– wandering through the charming old town, with its stone houses and cobblestone streets, listening to live music and enjoying some delicious local food. We had a fun (albeit a bit touristy) experience at Obetsanova Mehana tavern restaurant, where the highlight was definitely the quartet playing traditional Bulgarian songs.
Day 5-6: Bansko to Plovdiv
After breakfast (and maybe one last little soak or sauna visit), drive to Plovdiv, approximately 2.5 hours from Bansko. The drive is really lovely, along winding roads with beautiful vistas of green meadows and mountains.
Plovdiv is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in Europe, with settlements in the area dating back to around 6000 BC. By the 12th century BC, the area was inhabited by the Thracians, who established a fortified settlement known as Eumolpias, and in 342 BC, Philip II of Macedon (the father of Alexander the Great) conquered the city, renaming it Philippopolis. The city became part of the Roman Empire in the 1st century AD, and was called Trimontium (the “City of Three Hills,” though Plovdiv is located on 7 hills, like Rome!) The city became an important cultural and economic center under Roman rule, and notable structures from this period that you can still see today include the Ancient Theater and Roman Stadium.
After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, Plovdiv remained under Byzantine control, known again as Philippopolis. Conquered by the Ottomans in 1364, Plovdiv, then known as Filibe, remained under Ottoman control until it was liberated in 1878.
Plovdiv remains a cultural and historical gem, named European Capital of Culture in 2019. Needless to say, it’s a great addition to any trip to the area. Once there, it’s easily walkable to see the city’s main sights over a day or two, depending how much time you have.
Here are a few can’t-miss sights:
- Ancient Theater of Philippopolis: A remarkably well-preserved Roman theater dating back to the 1st century AD that is still used for performances today. Luckily, you can see the stadium even when events aren’t on by peeking through the iron grates surrounding the theater. The Art Gallery Philippopolis showcases Bulgarian art from the 19th and 20th centuries.
- Old Town Plovdiv: Charming cobblestone streets, colorful traditional houses, and historical landmarks like the Ethnographic Museum, Balabanov House, and the beautiful architecture of the National Revival period are highlights of the Old Town.
- Roman Stadium: The remains of a Roman stadium that could seat up to 30,000 spectators is still located in the city center. You can see parts of the stadium from the street level and visit the underground section for a closer look.
- Kapana Creative District: A vibrant “arts and crafts” neighborhood with galleries, studios, street art, and loads of cafes, we loved strolling around this area and stopping for a drink to beat the heat.
- Nebet Tepe: One of the seven hills of Plovdiv, known for its ancient ruins and panoramic city views.
Day 7: Plovdiv to Sofia
From Plovdiv, you can drive back to Sofia, which takes approximately 1.5 hours without traffic. From there, you can prepare for your departure from Bulgaria, or set aside some time to explore any remaining sites you may have missed in the capital.
If you have an early flight like we did, we had a great stay at the Best Western Sofia Airport, which accommodated our late arrival, early departure, and has free breakfast from 3:00 AM and a free shuttle service.
We hope you loved this itinerary for a week in Bulgaria. We had a wonderful time here and can’t wait to go back. You can pin this itinerary for later by clicking on either photo below, and feel free to let us know your thoughts in the comments!
