After a fun Tolkien-themed Oxford weekend, we continued our English long weekend with a brief sojourn in the Cotswolds. However, never ones to back down from a challenge, we decided to tackle it car-free.
The reality is, we’re still a bit freaked out by the idea of driving on the other side of the road, and our readers know our affinity for public transit and other modes of getting places… we are called “Why Not Walk”, after all!
Our first step was to get to Moreton-in-Marsh, a transportation hub in the Cotswolds area. We then took a bus to Bourton-on-the-Water, where we spent two nights.
We’re excited to share this car-free Cotswolds weekend itinerary with you, as we still had a lovely time in the area and were able to see quite a few things via walking or public transit. However, this was a bit more challenging than we thought it would be, unfortunately.
A few things to keep in mind:
- Buses sometimes only come once every 2 hours, and are often late or early (they sort of do their own thing, it seems.)
- Beware that the schedules on the transportation websites aren’t always accurate, and Google Maps definitely isn’t your friend here.
- If you end up needing to take a taxi, your hotel will likely have to call one on your behalf, and they are very expensive (think 30 pounds for a 10-minute drive.)
- If you go via Moreton-in-Marsh without a car, there is only one way to get to London, and that’s the train. There are no other methods of transportation. To be safe, it’s best to spend a night in London on your way out, or book a night-time train or plane. Why this caution? Well, the NWR canceled 4 trains in a row when we were trying to depart back to London, and many people around us missed flights or trains. We were bummed to waste basically a whole day on a rainy train platform, but very relieved we were leaving from London the following day.
Now that the rigamarole of logistics has been dealt with, you can read on for our town suggestions and itinerary below!
The Cotswolds is a picturesque region in south-central England, known for its rolling hills, quaint villages, and historic charm. It offers a quintessentially English experience, with its timeless villages and scenic landscapes, a great place for a weekend away.
The golden stone villages and historic market towns against the backdrop of lush greenery creates an idyllic setting that has inspired artists, writers, and travelers for centuries, and we had a lovely time relaxing here.
There isn’t really much to do, but this is part of the charm! The area is also known for its delicious local produce, including artisan cheeses, farm-fresh meats, and traditional ales. We particularly enjoyed cream tea at local establishment Bakery on the Water and trying local brews at Hawkestone Brewery.
We opted to stay in Bourton-on-the-Water. While smaller and more quaint than the bigger market town hubs nearby, it was still accessible with public transit and had connections to other towns. Known as the “Venice of the Cotswolds” for its picturesque riverside setting and stone bridges, this is a must-see in the area and we’re glad that we chose to stay here.
Car-Free Cotswolds Weekend Itinerary
Day 1: Walking Tour Itinerary
Start in Bourton-on-the-Water.
Follow the River Windrush, which runs through Bourton-on-the-Water.
Continue walking along the river and follow the signs until you reach the nearby village of Lower Slaughter, approximately 2 miles away, and. take some time to check out the quaint little houses and the 13th-century parish church of St. Mary.
From Lower Slaughter, follow the footpath along the River Eye to the neighboring village of Upper Slaughter, approximately 1 mile away. Upon reaching Upper Slaughter, take some time to explore the village’s charming streets and historic landmarks. Check out the 12th-century church of St. Peter, which features Norman architecture and ancient tombstones in the churchyard.
After exploring Upper Slaughter, you can either retrace your steps back to Bourton-on-the-Water along the same route or take a different path to explore more of the Cotswolds countryside. We enjoyed stopping at Hawkestone Brewery on our way back for some hot French fries (sorry, chips!) and brews.
We followed this walking path, courtesy of Explore the Cotswolds.
Depending on how much time you have after this lovely country stroll, here are a few other towns that were recommended to us, that we weren’t able to make it over to. Unfortunately, the bus connections can be a bit tricky and we visited in the off-season, so we were a bit restricted in what we were able to do.
Broadway: Situated to the northwest of Bourton-on-the-Water, Broadway is a picturesque village nestled beneath the Cotswold escarpment. Known for its wide main street lined with honey-colored stone buildings, Broadway offers charming shops, galleries, and cafes to explore. You can also visit Broadway Tower, a historic folly with panoramic views of the surrounding countryside.
Chipping Campden: Located a bit further north of Broadway, Chipping Campden is a quintessential Cotswold market town with a wealth of historic buildings, including the beautiful Market Hall. You can wander along the High Street, explore the town’s historic churches, and visit nearby attractions such as Hidcote Manor Garden, one of England’s most famous gardens.
Bibury: Situated to the east of Bourton-on-the-Water, Bibury is often referred to as one of the most picturesque villages in the Cotswolds. Highlights include Arlington Row, a row of ancient weavers’ cottages, and the tranquil River Coln. You can take a leisurely stroll along the river, visit the Bibury Trout Farm, and explore the village’s charming streets.
Burford: Located to the west of Bourton-on-the-Water, Burford is a historic market town known for its medieval buildings, bustling High Street, and scenic riverside walks. You can visit landmarks such as St. John the Baptist Church, explore the town’s antique shops and galleries, and enjoy views of the Windrush Valley from the medieval bridge.
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Day 2: Stow-on-the-Wold
Start your day by checking out Bourton-on-the-Water, known as the “Venice of the Cotswolds” for its picturesque riverside setting and stone bridges. Take a leisurely stroll along the River Windrush and explore the village’s charming shops, tearooms, and attractions. This will likely take you all of 5 minutes to see, in all honesty, but it’s so charming!
When you’re ready, take a local bus to Stow-on-the-Wold, a historic market town located approximately 4 miles north of Bourton. Spend the afternoon exploring the ancient market square, historic buildings, and quaint shops. Don’t miss the chance to visit St. Edward’s Church and enjoy panoramic views from the top of Stow Hill.
In the evening, enjoy dinner at one of the traditional pubs or restaurants in Stow-on-the-Wold or in Bourton-on-the-Water. While the cuisine isn’t super varied, there are loads of restaurants to try.
We had a really nice time in the Cotswolds, though we won’t lie and say it was easy-peasy to get there. We definitely struggled with bus connection times and getting stuck for 4 hours on a train platform in Moreton-in-Marsh was definitely not ideal.
However, if you’re looking for a nice, relaxing weekend, perhaps paired with a trip to London, this is a lovely place to be. We slept in for possibly the first time ever on a trip, and really enjoyed tea time, scones with clotted cream, and the fresh country air.
Be sure to pin our guides for later by clicking on the photos below!
