Matera, located in the southern region of Basilicata, Italy, is one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world, with a history that spans over 9000 years. We would say that this is a place you absolutely must visit once in your lifetime, and it’s a great addition to a Puglia road trip. Our hotel host told us when we arrived that Matera is one of the world’s absolutely unique places, and he’s right! There’s truly nowhere else quite like it.
The city’s most distinctive feature is of course the “Sassi” districts, ancient cave dwellings carved into the limestone cliffs that overlook the Gravina River. You can see a million photos of these but nothing quite prepares you for the real thing– truly stunning!
This guide will help you plan a 2-day trip to Matera. While it arguably can be squeezed into 1 day, we’d really recommend 2 in order to really soak it all in. In addition to being beautiful and unique, Matera’s history also holds more than its fair share of sorrow, which deserves to be honored. A 2 day visit (in our opinion) seems the best way to integrate the beauty, the sadness, and the way forward for this one-of-a-kind place.
Matera’s history dates back to the Paleolithic era, with evidence of human settlement in the area dating as far back as 10,000 years ago. The city’s unique landscape, characterized by limestone cliffs and caves, provided natural shelter for early inhabitants.
The city of Matera was originally founded by indigenous Italic tribes, but it later came under Greek and then Roman rule. During the Roman period, Matera thrived as an important center of trade and commerce, with evidence of Roman villas, temples, and infrastructure found throughout the area. In the Middle Ages, Matera became a flourishing medieval town, with the construction of churches, monasteries, and palaces. The city’s iconic cave dwellings, known as “Sassi,” were carved into the limestone cliffs during this time, providing homes for the local population.
During the Renaissance and Baroque periods, Matera experienced a period of cultural and artistic growth, with the construction of beautiful churches, palaces, and public buildings. The city’s architecture flourished, with elaborate facades and ornate decorations adorning many of its buildings and a robust middle class. However, the city’s fortunes declined in the 18th and 19th centuries, as poverty and overcrowding became widespread in the Sassi districts. With the regional capital moving to Potenza and different types of agriculture taking precedence, conditions soon became deplorable– families of 10 or 11 people living in caves with their farm animals, infant mortality rates of more than 40%, malaria, cholera, and dysentery rife, and abject and saddening poverty that the rest of the country was largely unaware of. After the publication of Carlo Levi’s seminal book Christ Stopped at Eboli, the city became known as “the shame of Italy.” Levi himself said “I have never in all my life seen such a picture of poverty.” In the 1950s, the Italian government initiated a program to relocate the residents of the Sassi to new housing developments outside the city, leading to the abandonment of many cave dwellings. This could have been the end of the city… but it rose from the ashes. Long seen as a prime film location, particularly for movies seeking a “Jerusalem-esque” backdrop without paying to film in Jerusalem itself, interest in revitalizing the city grew and grew.
By 1993, Matera’s Sassi districts were designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Since then, the city’s process of revitalization and restoration has only continued, with movies like The Passion of the Christ and the 2019 Daniel Craig James Bond: No Time to Die epic car chase attracting tourists from around the world to admire its ancient beauty and heritage. It was also named the European Capital of Culture for 2019, along with the Bulgarian city of Plovdiv.
2 Days in Matera
Day 1: Matera on foot
Exploring Matera on foot is a fantastic way to immerse yourself in its totally unique atmosphere and discover its history. Here’s a suggested walking tour itinerary:
Start at Piazza Vittorio Veneto: Begin your walking tour in the heart of Matera at Piazza Vittorio Veneto, a bustling square surrounded by cafes, shops, and historic buildings. Take a moment to admire the panoramic views of the Sassi. This is an amazing photo spot as well.
Check out the Palombaro Lungo, an enormous subterranean cistern reached by descending down under the piazza. This only costs 3€ to enter and is absolutely a marvel.
Explore the Sasso Barisano: Descend into the Sasso Barisano, where you’ll find a plethora of cave dwellings, churches, and historic buildings. Take your time to wander through the labyrinthine streets, or utilize “main drag” Via Fiorentini as a way to orient yourself.
Continue into the Sasso Caveoso: Descend into the Sasso Caveoso, one of Matera’s two historic districts carved out of the limestone cliffs. Wander through the narrow alleyways and steep staircases, marveling at the ancient cave dwellings and rock-cut churches that line the streets.
End at Piazza San Pietro Caveoso: Conclude your walking tour at Piazza San Pietro Caveoso, a charming square surrounded by cafes and restaurants. Relax with a coffee or gelato and reflect on your exploration of Matera’s fascinating history and culture.
Recommended Reading
Day 2
After you’ve meandered to your heart’s content on Day 1, we recommend spending Day 2 integrating your experience.
First off, visit Casa Noha. We urge you to prioritize this with any visit to Matera, as it will totally change your perspective. A former cave dwelling donated to the FAI by its owners prior to their deaths, entry is 6€ to see a 25 minute multimedia exhibit projected onto the walls of the home. You can choose to listen in Italian, French, or English and the narration relates the long and sorrowful history of the city. This is hands-down the best way to understand the Sassi and their history and we think it’s an absolute must.
Step back in time at Casa Grotta: a preserved cave dwelling that offers insight into the daily life of Matera’s past inhabitants, which only costs 2€ to enter. This is a great thing to do after Casa Noha to see how these caves actually looked– though keep in mind this is likely a bit nicer (or at the very least, more nostalgic) than reality.
Check out a few Rupestrian Churches: Visit some of Matera’s remarkable rupestrian churches, which are carved directly into the cliffsides. You’ve probably passed a few on your walks around, so pick one or two that strike your fancy to visit (since all of them charge entrance fees.) A few popular options include the Church of San Pietro Barisano, the Church of Santa Maria de Idris, and the Church of San Giovanni in Monterrone, each adorned with frescoes and rock-cut architecture.
Visit the Cathedral: Make your way to the Piazza Duomo, where you’ll find Matera’s beautiful Cathedral, dedicated to the Virgin Mary (under the title of the Madonna della Bruna.) The cathedral has a beautiful Romanesque facade and in the interior, you can see different levels of churches over time.
Bonus: Puglia Road Trip
If you have a few more days (which we really hope you do!), Matera is in a part of Basilicata that is super accessible to the stunning region of Puglia.
For our guide to your Puglia road trip, including Bari, Alberobello, Polignano a Mare, Ostuni, and more, check out our Puglia road trip guide. Note that unlike most of our other itineraries, you will need a car for this.
Be sure to pin our guides for later by clicking on the photos below!
