It goes without saying that the Dolomites are an outstanding hiking destination, arguably one of the world’s best. There are endless trails to ascend, via ferratas to attempt, and alpine meadows to frolic in. As we mentioned in our general Dolomites itinerary, it can be absolutely overwhelming to plan a trip here– truly an embarrassment of riches.
After much, much research, consideration, and deliberation, we decided to split our week in the region with 4 days on the eastern side in Cortina d’Ampezzo and 3 in Soprabolzano (near Bolzano, closer to the attractions in Val Gardena and Ortisei.) The breakdown is a total matter of personal preference, depending on what you’d like to do and see.
We also did not attempt any via ferratas. It’s best to do these with proper knowledge, equipment, and maybe even a guide. After 2 years living below sea level in the Netherlands, we were craving a challenge but not a death-defying one. With that said, there are loads of trails that aren’t considered via ferratas– we’ll highlight several in this post.
With that in mind, there are a few things to know before you go:
- Pack those hiking boots: full disclosure, we didn’t experience a single trail that we would’ve felt comfortable wearing sneakers on. While we did see people doing it, the loose gravel, tough ascents/descents, and obstructions seem like they wouldn’t be particularly fun to navigate.
- Hit the trailhead as early as you can: in terms of parking, peace and quiet, and photo ops, the earlier the better.
- Bring more water than you think you’ll need: after running out of water on the Croda da Lago trail, it’s best to pack more than you think you’ll need, or invest in one of those filter straws for longer hikes.
- Make sure you have coins for parking: not all machines accept credit cards, and some are cash-only.
- “Easy” is relative in the Alps: pretty much any hike will include some degree of uphill. We found that the more difficult hikes were rated that way technically more so than aerobically, and all hikes had a baseline of ascents.
In retrospect, this was definitely one of our favorite hikes, but we want to be really clear that it’s a toughie! There are very few points that aren’t either technically tough or physically tough. That said, the reward for the exertion is absolutely, 100% worth it. It’s not nearly as popular as other treks in the area, and we loved all the photo vantage points and the sense of wonder we experienced away from the crowds. We did this hike on our first day and feel that it’s a great introduction to the region and the Parco Naturale delle Dolomiti d’Ampezzo (Nature Park of the Ampezzo Dolomites), a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
After parking your car at Ponte de Ru Curto (SP638), which is about 15 minutes from Cortina and easy to find on Google Maps, you can hop right on the trail. While it’s a good idea to arrive fairly early in the morning to get a good parking spot, people seemed to be parking relatively easily up and down the side of the road– just be sure to tuck your mirror in.
You’ll get your heart pumping pretty much right away on the first 3km, as you meander upwards through a lush green forest up to the breathtaking Lago Federa. Watch out for mountain bikers as you hike, and keep an eye out for a short detour near the top for Val Negra, a sweeping viewpoint area and a great photo op. Shortly after you’ll stumble onto the breathtaking emerald-hued Lago Federa, one of the most gorgeous lakes in the Dolomites.
After you’re finished swooning at the unbelievable colors and views of the lake, continue walking up to the quaint lakeside Rifugio Palmieri. You can grab a snack or meal if you want, but make sure to use the restroom here, as it’s the only one on the trail. It is also absolutely critical to refill your water bottle here. The water is some of the most fresh, cold, and delicious we’ve ever had and it’s also the last place you’ll be able to refill unless you have a filter straw. Full disclosure, we’re a bit traumatized about this because we ran out of water towards the end of the hike and were struggling a bit– bring more water than you think you’ll need.
Most people will stop here, and go back down to the parking lot. We saw a lot of blogs saying they don’t think it’s worth it to visit if you don’t do the rest of the Croda loop. We disagree! This lake is so, so gorgeous, we do think it’s worth it on its own even if you don’t do the rest of the (much more challenging) loop.
Either way, after you’ve enjoyed the lake, the horses, the views, and the rifugio, continue uphill to Forcella Ambrizzola. This was an absolutely gorgeous part of the hike, though do keep in mind that it’s very exposed– layer on the sunscreen and drink water.
If you thought that was hard, get ready– after you ascend to Ambrizzola, you’ll dip down for a second into some grassy alpine meadows, but don’t follow the path downward if you want to continue the Croda loop. Rather, go towards the right and start your trek upwards to the Forcella Rossa del Formin saddle. This was, quite frankly, not very fun. It’s so steep and feels absolutely endless, and the views from the top weren’t remarkably different from those at the bottom, even if you do feel some satisfaction from it.
What goes up must go down, and what follows was our least favorite part of the hike– a 2km descent down a boulder field in Val de Formin. This was pretty stressful, and the big reason why we don’t recommend this hike to everyone. We were terrified of slipping, breaking something, or getting stuck, and made very, very slow progress here. Follow the trail markers carefully, keeping an eye out for the red and white blazes, and you’ll feel much more at ease. Once you finish that, the rest of the loop is fairly easy and forested, back to the parking lot.
Ultimately, we adored this hike in retrospect– it was even Alex’s favorite! It was a gorgeous introduction to the region, it was challenging, and it was a great length. It also hit that sweet spot where there was always someone nearby, which made us feel safe, but it was quite empty compared to the other trails we did. However, we definitely have to admit that the boulder scramble was not our idea of a good time, and felt absolutely endless. We saw a lot of blogs and Alltrails recommendations being very cavalier about this. If you’re not a seasoned hiker, this one is tough, and a little scary. Lastly, please please do not attempt without hiking boots!
Cadini di Misurina (Free version) | 14 km | Moderate to strenuous:
Croda da Lago was Alex’s favorite hike, and Cadini di Misurina (free edition) was Tegan’s. If you close your eyes and picture the Dolomites, or take a mental snapshot like a postcard, this may very well be what you imagine– the sparkly gray, jagged peaks like teeth against a blue sky, the stomach-dropping heights, and the absolutely swoon-worthy vistas. The view truly is magnificent, emotional almost– like your brain can’t compute that much beauty at once. This hike is also a toughie, but it’s so extraordinary that it’s hard to even put into words.
Now, notice we say “free edition.” That’s because Cadini di Misurina shares a parking lot with the very, very popular Tre Cime di Lavaredo. Indeed, the easiest way to get to Cadini di Misurina is to park at the Rifugio Auronzo lot, which is also the jumping-off point for the Tre Cime di Lavaredo, and you can do the two together. However, this lot costs an eye-popping 30€, and fills up remarkably quickly in the mornings.
There’s another way, though, and while it’s pretty tough, it’s definitely worth it for some of the most breathtaking vistas on earth (we think.) If you map to the free parking lot at Lago di Antorno (Parcheggio Libero on Google Maps), you can hop on the trail starting right behind the lake. It’s a cute lake and you may even spot some cows before the path starts to ascend (pretty sharply) uphill via trail 101/119. While it’s not always super clear where you’re going, the vistas are gorgeous as you bop along, crossing several different types of terrain, including a huge winding switchback trail of rocks that made us think of dinosaurs roaming.
When you finally start to see Rifugio Auronzo (the only building out here, so it’s impossible to miss), veer to the right, away from the path leading up to the rifugio. Then, just go up until you reach the ridgeline, which is where the stupendous views begin. From there, you can scramble all around to your heart’s content– you’ll want to take every path, see every vista, etc. It’s just mind-bogglingly beautiful! Keep in mind that some paths are somewhat less death-defying than others, so keep to the right on the ridgeline if you’re afraid of heights. We can’t stress how gorgeous this area is, definitely plan to spend some time just taking it in.
After you’ve taken photos to your heart’s content, it’s a good idea to trek up to the rifugio to refill water, use the bathroom, or grab a cold drink if you’d like. From there, you can descend back down the way you came, or take the bus back to Lago di Antorno.
Bonus: On the other side of the rifugio, there’s a flat, easy trail that leads to a great viewpoint of the Tre Cime di Lavaredo from below. It only takes about 15 minutes to walk there, and the path is packed with families and tour groups. Ultimately, we don’t regret not doing the Tre Cime hike, as we heard it’s mega-crowded, but we’re really glad that we didn’t miss out on the famous view entirely.
Adolf Munkelweg to Rifugio delle Odle | 10 km | Easy:
There’s a good reason why the Adolf Munkelweg hike is one of the most popular in the region, and we are definitely fans! Named after Adolf Munkel, a famous German alpinist and painter, the hike is quite easy, while offering major “bang for your buck” in terms of majestic views of the Odle mountain range. Located in Val di Funes (Villnöss) in South Tyrol, we agree with the many, many others that say that this hike offers some of the most awe-inspiring views in the Dolomites. The contrast between the jagged rock formations and the serene landscapes of the Villnöss meadows is truly out of this world.
The trailhead is easy to get to. You start out at the Zanser Alm parking lot (which already has amazing views), but be sure to get there early– we had our pick of spots when we arrived at around 6:30, but there wasn’t a single spot left at 12 when we left. Parking costs 8€ and is valid for the full day. After you park and snap some first shots of the Odle group, follow trail 6 towards Geisler Alm/Rifugio delle Odle. Note that after a bit #6 turns into trail 35, which is where you hop on the famed Adolf Munkelweg. From there, just follow trail signs for Geisler Alm. Overall, this trail was much easier to follow than other trails, and very technically easy as well. While it’s still the Alps (so there will be uphills), we agree that this is a great hike for just about anyone.
After a bit, you’ll happen upon cute-as-a-button Rifugio delle Odle nestled in the lush green grass in front of the majestic peaks. This is a great place for a coffee and apple strudel, or something heavier if you so choose (though it’s pretty pricey), as well as a break– it’s tempting to spend hours here in their fabulous bespoke lounge chairs gazing at the mountains, and you’re welcome to do so if you choose!
To get back to the parking area, simply follow the signs back down to Zanser Alm– easy peasy. It’s pretty much all downhill, and you’ll make quick progress.
Bonus: As you leave the area, there’s a very popular photo op at the Church of St. John (San Giovanni in Ranui), a teeny-tiny Baroque style chapel surrounded by the Villnöss meadows with the mountains in the background (photo top left below). We didn’t quite see what all the fuss was about, but it’s easy to stop for a few quick snaps and form your own opinion.
Armentara Meadows | 10km point-to-point | Easy:
For a much more off-the-beaten-path trail, we’re so grateful we found this one. After doing 2 really strenuous hikes in a row, we were ready for something a bit less technical, and stumbled upon the Armentara Meadows.
Located on the Armentara Plateau on the western side of Fanes-Senes-Braies Nature Park in Alta Badia, it also gave us the opportunity to explore a region we may not have made it to otherwise. Alta Badia is just as splendidly gorgeous as the other regions in the Dolomites area, but it is often neglected in favor of the hikes around Cortina and Ortisei, respectively. We totally recommend spending some time here if you can.
The Armentara Meadows hike begins way up at the Santa Croce Chapel. The chapel is accessible by two chairlifts (La Crusc 1 and La Crusc 2) which depart from the picture-perfect small town of Badia.
To get there, park your car in the cute town of Badia, in the lot by the La Crusc cable car entrance. It was full when we arrived at around 9AM, and we ended up having to find parking elsewhere. We’re a bit ashamed to admit that we didn’t read the lot sign correctly and got a small parking ticket for staying longer than 3 hours, so… read signs carefully! 😉
From the chairlift entrance, purchase a 1-way ticket for La Crusc 1 and La Crusc 2 (you’ll need to ride both to get to the top.) The ride on the chairlift is super fun, and much more budget-friendly than other cable car rides like Seceda or 5 Torri (16€ 1-way in 2023.) Once you reach the top, enjoy the cute church, rifugio, and views, and take trail 15 when you’re ready.
You’ll be absolutely swooning at the little huts and dreamy meadows along the way– we felt like we stopped every 5 seconds for photos, and it feels utterly like a fairytale. We kept expecting a dragon or a fairy godmother to materialize! About halfway down, you can opt to take a very slight detour at the Hütte da Andre rifugio, a great place for a bathroom break and water refill, or a meal if you’re so inclined.
From there, continue on trail 7a behind the rifugio, following the signs back down to Badia. Towards the end it gets a bit confusing to know which way to go, but we had good cell service and just checked Google Maps.
All in all, Alta Badia is so, so gorgeous! We’re so happy we took this hike and got to drive through the region.
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Vallunga | 9km out-and-back | Easy:
If your legs desperately need a break but you’re still wanting to spend the day outdoors, head to “local’s haunt” Vallunga, located near Val Gardena. Shaped like a “U”, you’ll see all sorts of dogs, strollers, cyclists, and families here, and it’s the perfect place for a hike that feels more like a walk. While there are a few small ascents, this hike is pretty much all within the valley, indeed, Vallunga means “long valley.”
You enter the parking lot via a narrow road, so be ready to yield to people leaving if need be. Parking costs 0,50€ per hour and, at the time we visited, the credit card reader wasn’t working. It doesn’t give change, so coins are best. There’s a café at the entrance to the park where you can use the restroom, and this is the only place to do so.
From there, you enter the valley, and all you have to do is walk. You can turn around whenever you wish, but if you walk to the large meadow area, you’re in for a treat– we got to hear bugle calls echoing around the mountains, and enjoyed a picnic lunch and quality people-watching prior to turning around and heading back to the parking area. There was also a fountain with the most delicious fresh water to refill your bottle, fully recommended.
Panoramaweg | 10 km loop | Easy:
Full disclosure– we didn’t love this hike. We want to include it because it’s a popular one, but we’d suggest a few alterations if you’re checking it out yourself.
The Panoramaweg, also known as the Dolomites Panorama Trail, is a scenic hiking route on the western side of the Dolomites, in the Val Funes area that can be accessed from various starting points, including the villages of Santa Cristina, Selva Val Gardena, or Ortisei. We started it from Santa Maddalena, a small mountain village home to the Santa Maddalena Church, which is one of the most popular photo ops in the whole region.
We had read previously to expect the area to be a total mob scene, but it was very quiet and empty when we were there, which was a bit odd! We were ready for what we thought would be one of the best hikes in the region, scampering across meadows, alpine forests, and cute historic farmsteads.
However, if we’re being honest… this trail often felt like tramping through someone’s backyard without their permission, and you got essentially the same view of the valley below the whole time. There’s also a significant amount of walking along the road, which was scary with cars driving fast around blind turns. After several days hiking, we weren’t accustomed to having to jump out of the way of cars and it was not very pleasant or relaxing.
We also didn’t have great weather, and a huge thunderstorm rolled in shortly after we departed, so the “panoramic” views were pretty much totally obscured by clouds and fog (see bottom right photo above of the Odle-Geisler Group.)
That said, a few tips for this hike:
- Don’t attempt in foggy or muggy weather. We got devoured by mosquitoes and, as mentioned, the famous peaks (the whole point of the hike) were totally obscured by clouds.
- Stay on the trail– there are a lot of signs asking you to respect the wildlife, and no drones are allowed.
- Consider merging the Panoramaweg with the Sunnseitnweg. While it’ll be a shorter hike, it’s so easy that you can do another hike later in the day, and you’ll avoid super repetitive scenery. As you’re walking along the Panoramaweg, you’ll see a trail junction pointing downward to the left, which will take you back to Santa Maddalena. We ended up spending a lot of time traipsing through backyards, only to end up having to walk up an almost-highway back to the parking area– not very fun.
- Do this hike in the morning: a lot of thunderstorms roll into the area in the afternoons, complete with lightning and strong wind. We are very grateful we started this hike early, because we would’ve gotten caught in one for sure.
The Panoramaweg is one of the region’s most popular hikes, but it was our least favorite of the 6 we did. While we recommend it to those seeking an easy hike with nice views of the church, we wish our expectations hadn’t been so high. But, this is a controversial opinion, so we’d love to hear others’ thoughts on it!
We hope you enjoyed this 6-hike itinerary to the Dolomites, and that it’ll be helpful particularly for those of you who didn’t opt for the via ferrata experience.
For more Italy content, you can check out our full Dolomites itinerary, or our guides to other places like Venice, Rome, Taormina, and Lake Como. Feel free to click on either of the photos below to save this guide for later on Pinterest!
1 comment
Great articles packed with info! And beautiful photos!
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