We’re big fans of Iceland, to say the least. Our very first trip together was a full rotation of the Ring Road in January of 2016, a wonderful spur-of-the-moment trip courtesy of $200 round-trip flight via the now-defunct (RIP!) Wow Airlines. It remains one of our favorite trips to date, and we’ve been wanting to go back in a different season ever since.
This time, with $200 flights sadly a thing of the past, we instead took advantage of another neat opportunity– IcelandAir’s ultra-generous layover policy. En route to a wedding in the US, we budgeted a few extra days to stop over in Iceland, and then just hopped on the connecting flight to Washington, DC 5 days later.
We super recommend this to anyone at any time– it’s a great way to check a part of Iceland off your bucket list or for a trip of any length. You can just check out Reykjavik, explore the Golden Circle, or do a mini road-trip, though keep in mind that the maximum number of days is 7, so it’s not quite worth it to attempt a full Ring Road rotation: we did the Ring Road in 9 days and this is really the minimum number of days it takes.
Since our time was relatively limited and we were visiting in early April, which is well within the “yes, it’s still winter” portion of shoulder season, we decided to focus our energy on the South Coast this go-round. We chose this area because it’s quite easily-navigable (which should always be a consideration in Iceland), with loads of things to do and only a few hours’ drive from Reykjavik.
We’ve prepared this Iceland spring South Coast Itinerary to help you plan a great spring visit to this wonderful portion of the country.
- It’s still cold: First of all, it’s critical to remember that spring is still quite cold in Iceland. We were still wearing full winter coats with multiple layers our whole visit, and had to defrost the car’s windshield each morning. While you’ll certainly work up a bit of a sweat hiking, layers are your friend, as you’ll certainly find yourself pulling them on and off all day.
- It’s already fairly crowded: While spring is certainly less crowded than summer, it still behooves you to wake up early and get to the trailheads. There’s lots of daylight in Iceland at this time of year, and the difference between having a glorious trail to yourself and having to try to squeeze by people can make or break an experience.
- Wear those waterproof shoes: We’d say that waterproof hiking boots (or those special hiking sneakers with tread) are a must, even if not the most fashion-forward of accessories. The trails are usually quite well-marked, but can be very slippery and muddy. You’ll feel much more comfortable in hiking boots, and good ankle protection is never a bad idea.
- Be ready to drop some money on food: Food is very expensive in Iceland, so on both visits we decided to forgo eating out and just make simple and filling meals in our hotel. In that vein, a few recommendations:
- Consider booking a hotel with a kitchenette or access to a shared kitchen (very common throughout Iceland) to cook basic meals like pasta, rice and beans, or other easy staples. We stayed at the Hvammból Guesthouse and had a fabulous stay.
- Be sure to sample some fresh salmon while you’re here– the prices are actually quite reasonable in the grocery stores and the fish itself is bursting with flavor! It just needs a bit of lemon juice and salt and a nice little sauté on the stovetop.
- Other than that, loaves of bread for sandwiches, handfuls of nuts and popcorn, and fruits will keep you going without breaking the bank.
- The absolute, #1, best and yummiest thing to eat in Iceland, though, is… skyr. If you haven’t had it before, the special Icelandic yogurt is thick, creamy, filling, and absolutely delicious. They have all sorts of flavors and brands available and it makes a great breakfast or snack.
- You likely won’t need cash, as Iceland is a super card-friendly place. Both our US credit cards and European (Dutch) debit cards worked seamlessly.
- Relatedly, money will definitely fly on gas: Another big expense is gasoline. It’s a good idea to plan out what you want to do each day to avoid too much aimless meandering, while still remembering that one of the best things about Iceland is the freedom to gaze out the window at all the gorgeousness surrounding you while driving the Ring Road.
Getting There & Staying There
Chances are you’ll be flying into Reykjavik’s international airport, Keflavik. Once you land, you can head right over to the rental car area (next to the exterior doors to the airport) after clearing immigration to pick up your car.
We strongly encourage you to book in advance, as this can be either quite economical or quite expensive. In April of 2023, we paid about 250€ for a midsize SUV for 5 days. This felt pretty reasonable given how much mileage we put on it, particularly when taking into account that we always have to pay a premium for an automatic transmission, since we are sad Americans that can’t drive a manual.
A note on cars: depending on your activities, which car to rent is a big consideration. On that first January visit, we rented a tiny Peugeot and spent 9 days low-key stressing about freezing to death in a snowdrift. We only got stuck once (on an ill-advised off-road adventure attempting to find the Kerið Crater), but that was definitely a very scary experience.
All this to say, there is still snow and ice in April in Iceland. We consider upgrading to an SUV with snow tires at a minimum, and if you want to do any amount of adventuring, get the 4WD or plan to do (pricey, but safe) off-road or Super Jeep tours.
From the airport, there are a few options:
- Check out the Blue Lagoon nearby. It’s definitely touristy, it’s definitely expensive, but it’s a wonderful place and you’re certain to have a nice time if you get there early.
- Drive into Reykjavik and spend the night there.
- Drive to Vík or surroundings, the largest “town” on the South Coast.
We opted to do the Blue Lagoon and Reykjavik on our way out on this visit, but the following Iceland Spring South Coast Itinerary can be done in either direction.
When you’re heading towards Vík, it’s a good idea to stock up on at least a few groceries in Reykjavik or Grindavík and make sure your gas tank is full. There are several grocery stores in Vík, but not as reliable between the two cities.
Recommended Reading
Where to Go: Iceland Spring South Coast Itinerary
Driving towards Vík along the Ring Road (Iceland’s wonderful Route 1), there are loads of stops you can consider.
Hikes (that you don’t need a 4WD for!)
First off, there are two hikes that we really enjoyed, that were easily doable with a “normal” car (without 4WD). You can choose to do one or both, but they’re definitely both worth doing!
However, for a full hiking guide, check out our South Coast Hiking Guide for 3 great spots that you don’t need 4WD for.
Skóga River Hike
After you arrive and park in the (ample, and surprisingly free) parking area, first check out the Skógafoss Waterfall from ground level. You can then head up to the viewing deck, up a flight of 370 very steep, but really well-built stairs.
From there, the trail begins, following the Skógá River upstream for about 5 miles through lush, breathtaking scenery. You truly won’t be able to decide if you should look up at the gorgeous sky, into the distance at the volcanoes, down at meandering canyons, etc. etc. We even saw a wild arctic fox in the distance, which felt like a once-in-a-lifetime thing.
One of the best parts about this hike is that you don’t have to do the whole thing– since it’s an out-and-back, you can turn around at any time. While it’s largely fairly easy, there’s definitely uneven terrain and some slippery areas.
We strongly urge you to arrive here early and bring a bagged lunch with you. We were totally alone on the trail on our way out, and as we trekked back it got more and more crowded, which really lessened the magic of the place.
Svartifoss Waterfall Hike
Perfect as part of a wider exploration of Skaftafell and the wonderful Vatnajökull National Park, Svartifoss is a moody and beguiling waterfall whose black basalt columns inspired the design for the Hallgrimskirkja Church in Reykjavík. This is also one of the most popular destinations on the South Coast, so it’s also worth it to arrive there early.
There are several paved walking paths, ranked by difficulty. Take some time to check out the different-colored paths and choose the one that seems like the best fit for you. The hike is largely easy, often paved with asphalt or gravel, with ample places to stop and take photos, and a wonderful trek to the waterfall itself. You’ll definitely want to pause to marvel at this one, because it’s really different and special.
It’s important to note that despite all the signs prohibiting this, we still saw people climbing over ropes to take “better” photos of the waterfall… This is despite the risks of destroying the wildlife or slipping and falling into the swirling water and rocks below. Needless to say, this is a really annoying and frustrating thing to do, and there’s now video surveillance to deter people from doing this.
If you have time to explore more of Vatnajökull National Park while you’re here, it’s super worth it to do so.
Non-hiking hotspots
Some non-hike spots to check out:
- Perhaps best-known for its unique walking path that allows you to go behind the falls, Seljalandsfoss is one of the South Coast’s most popular waterfalls. While you’re here, check out nearby Gljúfrabúi, called the “hidden waterfall.” Note that the walking path is not always open due to slip risk (it wasn’t open when we went, but it’s still worth pulling over to see the falls.)
- The Black Sand Beach of Reynisfjara, right near Vík and home to jaw-dropping basalt rock stacks. Note: beware of what they call “sneaker waves” at this beach! If you get too close, the waves can pull you out to sea, and the drowning risk is super high. There are a lot of signs, but we still saw people getting too close, definitely something to take seriously. A lot of people go horseback riding over here as well.
- The Dyrhólaey Arch and views of the promontory cliffs are easily visible from Reynisfjara and are absolutely stunning.
- The village of Kirkjubæjarklaustur, which would have made the hiking list except that the trails are closed for the foreseeable future for conservation. It’s still a beautiful area and worth visiting, though unfortunately no hiking is possible as of right now.
- The Jökulsárlón and Fjallsárlón glacier lagoons, dreamy glacial pools where you can see icebergs floating and maybe even seals (if you’re very lucky.) This was one of our favorite spots on our first visit to Iceland, and is a spectacular place to see the sunset. It gets very crowded, but there’s lots of parking and some quiet spots still exist. On nearby Diamond Beach, icebergs from Jökulsárlón wash up on the black sand.
- The strange lava formations at Gönguleið um Eldhraun. This is a quick photo stop but very odd and beguiling to look at, visible from the road.
- The Kerið Crater for its amazing, vivid colors. Kerið is much easier to visit than it was in 2016, as it now has a dedicated parking space and a paved road leading to it– though you do have to pay a small fee to enter. Formed around 6,500 years ago during a volcanic eruption, the crater has been partially filled with water that is a startling aqua color that stands out against the various shades of oxidized red, orange, and brown of the crater walls. Absolutely otherworldly!
- There is a pathway that traces you around the rim of the crater, which is where you’ll find the best photo opportunities, and we were also able to walk down to the water’s edge (this is sometimes closed due to weather.)
Bonus: Westman Islands day trip
Another great attraction to check out here is a day trip to the Westman Islands, or Vestmannaeyjabær. If we understood correctly, Vestmannaeyjabær is both the name of the largest city on the largest island of Heimaey, as well as the name of the island archipelago itself, which is made up of about 15 islands. It’s a super easy 40 minute ferry ride from the port at Landeyjahöfn (very close to Seljalandsfoss), and only 9 kilometers from the mainland. You can buy your tickets at the port, and be sure to check the schedule carefully, as it sometimes changes and largely depends on the season.
The island is simply wonderful– offering diverse landscapes, from volcanic formations to lush green hills, truly an amazing place for outdoor enthusiasts. The journey to the island is gorgeous as well, with beautiful ocean views and views of remote islands– a few with tiny houses on top! How you get there without a helicopter is a mystery…
Once in Vestmannaeyjabær, there is a perfect day’s worth of things to check out.
- Hiking Eldfell Volcano: Explore the volcanic landscape of Eldfell, which erupted in 1973, totally reshaping the island. You can hike to the top for stunning panoramic views of the surrounding area. Beware of the wind at the top, it can be a bit scary.
- If you’re interested in the eruption, check out the Sagnheimar Museum: Learn about the history and heritage of Vestmannaeyjar at the Sagnheimar Museum. It exhibits the volcanic eruption of 1973, local folklore, and the island’s fishing industry. There is also an aquarium, and a puffin rescue– we didn’t check these out but they’re quite popular.
- Explore Stórhöfði: Head to Stórhöfði, a promontory on the western side of Heimaey. It is an important nesting site for various bird species, and you can enjoy bird watching while taking in the breathtaking views.
- Take a walk through the town: Explore the charming streets of Vestmannaeyjabær, lined with colorful houses and beautiful gardens. Stop by the local shops, boutiques, and art galleries to experience the town’s unique atmosphere.
- Check out the Elephant Rock: We were a bit on the fence about walking all the way here, as it’s definitely an “Instagram spot” but it’s actually super worth it. It truly looks like an elephant, and the walk across the Vestmannaeyjar Golf Club had lots of wonderful views of surrounding mountains.
- Try a few local brews at The Brothers Brewery, made from local materials and inventive flavors. We tried a flight and really enjoyed all the different options.
- If you visit during the later spring, the cliffs around the islands are home to one of the largest puffin colonies in the world, and you can observe them nesting and diving into the sea. This is one of the best places on earth to see puffins, we wish we could’ve traveled a bit later!
Can’t-Miss Reykjavik
Once you’re back in Reykjavik, don’t miss:
- The iconic Hallgrímskirkja Church, standing tall over the city. You can take an elevator to the top of the tower for panoramic views of Reykjavik and its surroundings.
- The Old Harbor area, which has been totally transformed into a lively district filled with restaurants, shops, and galleries– totally unrecognizable from our last visit in 2016. Take a stroll along the harbor, admire the colorful houses, and check out the flea market.
- The stunning architecture of the Harpa Concert Hall and Conference Center, known for its distinctive glass façade. It also hosts various cultural events and performances throughout the year, so be sure to check the schedule if you’re interested.
- Taking a walk through the heart of Reykjavik, and exploring the vibrant city center. You can visit the Parliament House, stroll along the Laugavegur shopping street, and immerse yourself in the bustling atmosphere of the cafes, boutiques, and art galleries.
- Exploring the Perlan, a unique landmark in Reykjavik that offers panoramic views of the city. The building houses exhibitions about Iceland’s natural wonders, including an indoor ice cave and a planetarium.
- Immersing yourself in Reykjavik’s vibrant art scene by visiting art galleries and museums, such as the Reykjavik Art Museum, the National Gallery of Iceland, and the Kling & Bang Gallery.
- Trying out some Icelandic cuisine, if you’re interested in local delicacies. Icelandic lamb, fresh seafood, and famous Icelandic hot dogs are all good choices, as is skyr of course.
- Participating in a free walking tour with CityWalk. The guides are informative and funny, and like other “tip tours”, you just pay what you wish at the end.
Blue Lagoon Visit
Either upon arrival or upon departure, consider visiting the Blue Lagoon.
We must admit that we were a bit on the fence about the Blue Lagoon, and chose not to visit on our first trip to Iceland. It’s certainly very touristy and expensive, and there are loads of swimming pools and thermal baths all over Iceland that have more amenities or more privacy at lower pricing. However… The Blue Lagoon is also a fun experience, conveniently located right next to the airport. The swimming area is vast, and the water is deliciously hot. A few tips for a good visit:
- Book tickets in advance, and book for first thing in the morning when they open– it’s very pleasant and you’ll largely have the place to yourself.
- Bring snacks and/or lunch, unless you want to splurge on the restaurants on site. While very fancy, they’re very pricey.
- Remember that there are very strict rules about
- Bring a towel and shower shoes. While the Blue Lagoon provides towels for an additional fee, bringing your own can save you some money. Additionally, having flip-flops or waterproof sandals is handy for walking around the facilities.
- Relatedly, the Blue Lagoon offers lockers to store your belongings, which is a great way to relax while you’re there without having to think whether your stuff is staying safe while you’re in the water. You can rent a wristband that operates the lockers.
- Take advantage of the silica mud masking, made from the silica-rich mud the Blue Lagoon is known for. The mud is believed to have all sorts of skin benefits and it just feels really lovely!
- Before entering the lagoon, we urge you to get your hair wet and put a ton of conditioner in it, with the provided conditioner (or bring your own.) The geothermal water will really dry out your hair, and conditioning helps protect it from the minerals.
- In addition to conditioning, as in other thermal baths, Iceland has very strict hygiene standards. It’s mandatory and essential to shower thoroughly without a swimsuit before entering the lagoon. This helps to keep the water clean and is non-negotiable.
- Drink lots of water! The warm waters of the Blue Lagoon can cause dehydration without you even noticing. The Blue Lagoon has ample amounts of Iceland’s delicious fresh water, so keep refilling your bottle or check out the swim-up bars in the pool.
- As mentioned above, the water in the Blue Lagoon is amazing, but can leave your hair and skin feeling stiff and tight. Plan to have a shower and wash your hair thoroughly with fresh water after leaving the lagoon to remove the residue. You may want to bring your own shampoo and conditioner, too.
We found that this itinerary had a great mixture of the natural beauty Iceland is famous for, from waterfalls to black sand beaches, glaciers, and lagoons, to some R&R at the Blue Lagoon and a “city-break” in Reykjavik– a city we almost didn’t recognize from 2016 to today. However, we urge you to remember that road conditions, weather, and personal comfort levels may require adjustments.
At a minimum, it’s always a good idea to check weather and road conditions before setting out anywhere, as the weather is very volatile in Iceland year-round. Road closures are common, as well as certain nature areas being closed for maintenance. As Iceland’s popularity has grown, so has the impact of humans on Iceland’s formerly-pristine environment. We saw quite a few people climbing over ropes into restricted areas and generally not respecting the wildlife, and we urge you not to be that person. Not only is it dangerous, but it’s also unkind and disrespectful. Ultimately, no photo is worth slipping and falling to your death at Svartifoss or destroying fragile wildlife at Skógá. It’s not our intention to sound preachy, but truly, the amount of people we saw doing these sorts of things was really disappointing.
Iceland is an unbelievably magical place, and definitely should be at the top of your bucket list, even if you don’t consider yourself a super “outdoorsy” person. If you would like to do the full Ring Road, you can check out our oldie-but-goodie winter guide to the Ring Road, and pin this guide for later by clicking on either of the photos below. We also wrote a general Iceland guide recently for Backpacker Magazine, perfect for a first-time trip. Closely related to this article is our South Coast hikes guide, for a 3-hike itinerary that’s safe for non-4WD vehicles.
