Lake Como is known as one of the ritziest, most exclusive locales in Italy. Celebrities like George Clooney vacation here, sumptuous villas pepper the steep cliff sides, and yachts float along the serene waters.
With lake-front hotels sometimes costing upwards of 900 euros per night in the summertime, this is certainly not a budget destination. Right?
Not so fast!
In fact, prices plummet after September when the high season ends. When we visited in November 2021, 3-star hotels cost as little as 50 euros per night, with dinner at a pizzeria or osteria costing as little as 25 euros for two people.
Walking around town, we heard mostly Italian spoken, suggesting that this time of year is more popular for internal tourism, and the general vibe was much more relaxed.
If you still want to experience the splendor of Lake Como without breaking the bank, consider an off-season visit. While the ferries run less frequently, it is still possible to see everything you’d like to see, and you’ll certainly enjoy seeing the sights without the summer crowds.
Lake Como Top 5:
- Como: Serving as a hub of sorts and largest town on the lake, Como is a great jumping-off point for the rest of the lake. It has a wide variety of restaurants and hotels, and is a bit cheaper and more accessible than other towns. You can take a ferry anywhere you’d like to go from here.
- Moltrasio: Tiny and quiet, this was an unexpected favorite. Just keep climbing the stone steps for wonderful rock formations, waterfalls, and views.
- Cernobbio: Home to some of Como’s best villas, such as Villa d’Este and Villa Erba. Note that some villas close for the season, but the exteriors are still worth a peek!
- Bellagio: The most popular town on the lake, with famous photo spots and opulent villas to explore.
- Varenna: A short ferry from Bellagio, this tiny jewel is Italian waterfront at its most picturesque.
Getting There:
Lake Como is super close to Milan, only about an hour away by train. If you fly into Milan Malpensa, you can take a Trenord train straight from there– you don’t need to go into the city to connect. Indeed, Malpensa (being quite far from the city center) is actually closer to Como than Milan proper.
Note that you will need to buy 2 tickets: one ticket from Malpensa to Saronno (of Amaretto di Saronno fame!), and one to connect to Como Lago from Saronno. The ticket from Malpensa to Saronno costs 8 euros, and the ticket from Saronno to Como costs 2.80.
When you exit to the arrivals area at Malpensa, simply follow the signs for the trains, and you can buy a ticket at a kiosk or in the ticket office. Take the escalator down the stairs and board the next train stopping in Saronno.
Once you get off in Saronno, simply look at the board to see when the next train to Como departs and go to the correct track. The word in Italian is “binario.”
The train from Saronno to Como is very slow and makes a lot of stops, with Como Lago being the terminus. Note that there are several stops in Como! Make sure you get off at the last one to avoid a long walk
Getting Around:
While it is possible to explore Lake Como by car or bus, you really can’t go wrong with the ferries. In the off-season the options are somewhat limited, but with some advance planning you can still see all the best towns.
Parking seemed really limited and challenging, and in some areas (such as Bellagio to Varenna), you would need to take the ferry anyway, with the added challenge and expense of transporting the car. Ultimately, nothing really compares to seeing these gorgeous towns by boat!
When you arrive at the Como Lago train station, cross the street and turn left, and you’ll see the ferry ticket office, or biglietteria. It’s right across the street from the beautiful Swiss Metropole Hotel. We recommend getting tickets immediately upon arrival, as they sell out quickly and options are limited in winter.
Tip: you can buy your tickets for the next day as well!
For visiting the closer towns, such as Cernobbio, Torno, and Moltrasio, you can take a “hop-on, hop-off” ferry. It costs 8.90 euros per person, and you can ride it to your heart’s content the whole day.
The ferry to Bellagio is slightly more complicated. You can only buy 1-way tickets, and they cost about 15 euros– definitely pricey. When you’re ready to return, you can buy another 1-way ticket back. Note that Bellagio is much further up the lake than other towns, so make sure to get a ticket for the fast ferry. It only takes 45 minutes and makes far fewer stops.
In the off-season, this ferry runs much less frequently. We visited on a Sunday, and there were only 2 options (being that it was a Sunday and off-season!) While the ferry is pretty large, these tickets do sell out, so it’s best to get the ticket ahead of time, remembering that the sun sets at about 16:30.
Lastly, Bellagio and Varenna are super close to each other— only about 20 minutes by ferry. If you’re visiting Bellagio, you absolutely should visit Varenna as well. A one-way ticket costs 4 euros, and the views from the boat are absolutely splendid as you approach Varenna. From there, you can get tickets to go back to Como– no need to go back to Bellagio. This ferry runs more frequently, about once per hour on Sundays and once per half hour otherwise.
(Tip: the boat is almost empty when it stops in Varenna, as it picks up a huge load of tourists in Bellagio, so it actually benefits you to end your day in Varenna!)
Top 5 Towns on Lake Como to Visit:
1. Como
As we mentioned above, the town of Como is where the train drops you off, and it’s an easy jumping-off point for the rest of the lake.
However, while it may not be as postcard-perfect as the other towns, Como is definitely worth visiting in its own right.
The views from the waterfront are stunning, and the city center is packed with beautiful, traditional buildings in an array of lovely pastel colors. The breathtaking Cattedrale di Santa Maria Assunta is the perfect place to get your Gothic cathedral fix.
There isn’t much to do beyond strolling around, admiring the beautiful architecture and the views of the lake, but this certainly isn’t a bad thing! You’ll love the sparkling reflections of the mountains, the boats bobbing by, and the early-morning fog lifting, and if you’re an early riser like we are, you’ll have the town to yourself!
Don’t miss a morning cappuccino and croissant (which northern Italians inexplicably call brioches) at Caffè & Caffè on Via Bernardino Luini– the coffee is absolutely to die for! Later on, check out Gelab Gelateria on Via Cinque Giornate for really authentic, creamy gelato.
We also recommend staying in Como— there are lots of hotel options in a variety of price ranges, and loads of restaurants, gelaterias, and cafés. We found the food offerings in the other towns to be a bit pricier and more touristy, the hotels definitely so.
We stayed at the B&B Hotel Como City Center, which was about a 10-minute walk from the downtown area and a very pleasant stay. Note that the name is a bit misleading, as breakfast is not included. It cost about 50 euros per night and the room was clean, warm, and comfortable.
Conveniently, there is an absolutely incredible pizza place 2 blocks away– Pizzium. We have seriously high expectations for pizza in Italy, and we loved this place so much that we went back the next night to try different pizzas! It has a very friendly, family-style vibe, and was absolutely packed both nights. They have different pizzas from each region in Italy, as well as traditional staples like margherita and bufalina. The pizzas are also quite inexpensive– 7 to 11 euros each, and the crust is absolutely heavenly.
You may notice we have way more “very strong food opinions” in this post than in others… to that we say, when in Italy, you eat to your heart’s content!
2. Cernobbio
One of the first stops on the “hop-on, hop-off” style ferry is Cernobbio. It is perhaps known for its proximity to several of the area’s best villas– Villa Bernasconi, Villa d’Este, and Villa Erba.
Starting from Piazza Risorgimento, the Riva di Cernobbio is a lovely place for a stroll, with shops, cafés, and beautiful views of the lake, as well as the stunning Baroque-era Chiesa della Madonna delle Grazie. The villas are open seasonally, or can be admired from the outside! Waterfront Villa d’Este is nowadays a luxury hotel and resort, if you’re interested in a splurge.
Note– while we didn’t get a chance to visit, the Giardino della Valle botanical gardens also are highly recommended, as is the hike up Monte Bisbino.
3. Moltrasio
Moltrasio was hands down our favorite of the towns we visited. It’s tiny, quaint, and almost totally devoid of tourists. There are steep stone stairs leading from the waterfront up to several sweeping vistas of the town, as well as waterfalls, a huge bridge, and more.
The town first rose to prominence in the 1100s, when it first began exporting its particular type of limestone, called pietra moltresina, and you can see it used in several construction projects around town. Don’t miss the beautiful church of San Martino and Sant’Agata, dating back to the 1200s, and stop by the café in front for a hot drink or bite to eat.
There are also villas to explore in Moltrasio, including Villa Salterio, Villa Fontanelle (owned by Gianni Versace), and Villa Passalacqua, largely closed for the season for a winter visit.
4. Bellagio
Definitely the best-known of Lake Como’s towns, Bellagio is much, much more touristy but still worth a visit. There are loads of restaurants, wine bars, and shopping along main drag Via Giuseppe Garibaldi, as well as fantastic photo ops of the winding streets from above.
Punta Spartivento has beautiful views of the lake, and you can get your “villa fix” at Villa Serbelloni or Villa Melzi, with its accompanying gardens.
Keep in mind that Bellagio gets absolutely packed, even during the off-season. Plan your day carefully to make sure you’re not there with the huge wave of tourists– we definitely recommend going early.
5. Varenna
Again, no visit to Bellagio is complete without a quick hop over to Varenna— just a 20 minute ferry away. Actually, the approach to Varenna via ferry is one of the highlights of any trip to Como.
The town looks like fairies and elves live there, tucked into the trees, and its colorful buildings and church spire welcoming you. As you grow closer, more and more details stand out– have your camera ready!
Varenna is absolutely lovely– it’s impossible not to fall in love with it. While there isn’t much to do beyond exploring the curving streets and stopping for a gelato or hot cocoa, the town is just so cute that the time flies by. As you know, we almost always like to travel with a set plan and a list of things to do and see, but really the best way to experience Varenna is to meander around, enjoying the architecture, the friendly ducks, and the lake views from the aptly-named Passeggiata degli Innamorati.
Speaking of, there are amazing panoramic views from the Villa Monastero, which is open for tours or easily admired from above, as well as Castello di Vezio. Don’t miss Villa Monastero’s amazing botanical gardens, gorgeous year-round.
Bonus: Milan
If you have a 3rd day available, consider taking the train back to Milan prior to heading back to Malpensa. You can take the train directly from Como Lago to Milano Cadorna, which drops you off right by Sforzesco Castle in central Milan. The train takes about an hour, and it only costs 4 euros– totally worth it.
Full disclosure: as major Italophiles, we’re not huge fans of Milan. While it’s worth visiting for a day to see the spectacular Duomo and other sites, we’d recommend spending more time in Lake Como than in Milan. At risk of sounding harsh, it’s a major urban area with very little of the charm we innately associate with Italy– and a hustle-and-bustle culture much more reminiscent of New York or Tokyo.
Be sure to check out our recommendations for a quick day trip to Milan if you’re planning to stop there! We were able to squeeze in almost all of the city center’s biggest attractions in a half day, as well as stop for a leisurely lunch. And, of course, gelato.
Lastly, be on the lookout for our guides to Rome, coming soon! We’re also hoping to do a road trip in Sicily in a few months, and are really looking forward to sharing that with you all. You can pin this guide for later here or click below, and follow along on our adventures on Instagram.
