The dreamy region of Puglia is located in the southeast of Italy, forming the “heel of the boot.” Its rugged coastline, picturesque beaches, and rolling plains dotted with olive groves and vineyards are sure to enchant you, and we absolutely could not get enough of its charming whitewashed villages, historic town squares, and unique “trulli” houses on our mom-and-daughter trip.
We found Puglia the perfect blend of history, seaside views, and warm hospitality. Unlike other trips that were frantic with planning, speed-walking from one attraction to the next, and waking up at the crack of dawn, we really took advantage of Puglia’s relaxed Mediterranean vibe, soaking up the sun and the cuisine and enjoying spending time together.
That’s not to say that Puglia doesn’t have a wealth of cultural treasures to explore! This guide will introduce you to the region and help you plan an amazing road-trip with itineraries, day trips, and recommendations.
Puglia, also known as Apulia, has been inhabited since prehistoric times, and there’s evidence of human settlement dating back to the Paleolithic era. Early on, the region was inhabited by various ancient peoples, including the Messapians, Peucetians, and Iapygians before being colonized by the Greeks in the 8th century BC. They established colonies such as Taranto and Metapontum during their tenure, and the region later came under Roman rule. It flourished as an important agricultural and commercial center, with cities like Bari and Brindisi becoming prominent ports.
During the Middle Ages, Puglia was ruled by various powers, including the Byzantines, Normans, and Swabians. The region saw a period of prosperity under Norman rule, with the construction of impressive cathedrals and castles, many of which still exist today!
Puglia experienced a cultural and artistic renaissance during the 15th and 16th centuries, with the construction of many beautiful churches, palaces, and public buildings in cities like Lecce and Ostuni that are absolute must-sees on any trip. The region became known for its distinctive Baroque architecture, which we really enjoyed visiting on our trip.
In the 19th century, Puglia played a significant role in the Italian unification movement. As always, we’re tempted to indulge our inner political scientists, but we’ll refrain 
Unfortunately, the region also experienced periods of economic hardship and mass emigration, like much of the rest of the south of Italy. Today, Puglia is known for its charming villages and cultural heritage, which we were all too keen to enjoy as we touristed about.
Like anywhere in Italy, Puglia is packed with history in every cobblestone, olive tree, church, and grain of sand. You definitely can’t miss it, and soaking in all the history is a highlight of any stay.
Getting There & Staying There
You will likely fly into Bari Airport (Karol Wojtyła Airport, or BRI). This is the main airport serving the city of Bari as well as the greater region of Puglia, and is located about 8 kilometers (5 miles) northwest of the Bari city center. BRI is well-connected to the city center and other destinations in Puglia by airport shuttles and local bus services. We opted to rent a car while in Puglia in order to see as much of the region as we could, and picked up the car right by the airport.
In terms of where to stay, we recommend picking a few cities and spending a night or two in each. This way you explore more of the region and can do various day trips! Here are a few options:
- Bari: The capital city of Puglia, known for its historic center, bustling port, and vibrant street life. Our least favorite place that we visited on our road trip.
- Alberobello: A UNESCO World Heritage site famous for its unique trulli houses, but a bit limited in terms of where to stay.
- Ostuni: Known as the “White City” due to its whitewashed buildings, Ostuni has beautiful architecture, panoramic views, and a vibrant cultural scene. We stayed 2 nights here.
- Polignano a Mare or Monopoli: Perched on cliffs overlooking the Adriatic Sea, Polignano a Mare and Monopoli have dramatic coastlines, charming old towns, and excellent seafood restaurants. Both are gorgeous, but we strongly recommend Polignano a Mare. This was the highlight of our trip and everything you could ever want in a beach town.
- Matera (technically part of Basilicata, not Puglia, but still a must-visit while Puglia): Famous for its ancient cave dwellings and stunning landscapes, Matera is truly a one-of-a-kind place and a great place to stop for a few days.
- Lecce: Often referred to as the “Florence of the South,” Lecce is famous for its Baroque architecture, charming streets, and lively atmosphere, but is far away from other attractions.
For what it’s worth, we chose to do the following: 3 nights in Polignano a Mare → 2 nights in Ostuni → 2 nights in Matera → and a final night in Bari over a weeklong trip.
In hindsight, we would skip Bari. Compared to the other destinations on this itinerary, it felt really just like a big city, with the usual shopping street with H&M and Zara, an old town, and a waterfront. You’ll definitely get your fix of this from other parts of the itinerary, so Bari can be an add-on if you have the extra time. We feel the same way about Brindisi. We popped in for a quick visit, but we would also skip this in hindsight.
Lastly in “random bits of advice”, we also want to note that a lot of blogs recommended Polignano a Mare and Monopoli as an “either-or” or equal opportunity in terms of lodging. We disagree! We adored Polignano. It was the highlight of our trip and we would love to go back to chill there for a longer period of time. While of course we recommend visiting Monopoli as well, we’d definitely recommend staying in Polignano.
Recommended Reading
When to Visit
There is no wrong time of year to visit Puglia, though we’d shy away from summertime personally.
The region has a pretty-standard Mediterranean climate (think hot, dry summers and mild, wet winters.) While Puglia is known for sunny weather and relatively low rainfall compared to other regions of Italy, it does rain there — and the wettest months are usually November through February. In general, the coastal areas of Puglia tend to receive less rainfall than inland areas and mountainous regions, and are at high-risk for drought in the summer.
We unfortunately had a lot of rainfall while we were there (April 2024), with unseasonably cold and windy weather. This is apparently quite unusual but it’s best to keep in mind that it’s a good idea to bring layers, rain jackets/umbrellas, and different outfit options for changing weather.
There are a few minor pros/cons to different seasons, but really the “best time” to visit depends on your preferences and the type of activities you enjoy. That said, here’s a few things to consider:
- Spring | 44-70°F (7-21°C): Mild temperatures, blooming flowers, and lush landscapes with far fewer tourists than summer. Temperatures and conditions can vary widely.
- Summer | 72-90+°F (20-32+°C): Warm and sunny weather perfect for beach activities and outdoor dining, with long daylight hours and festivals, events, and cultural celebrations in full swing. Peak tourist season leads to big crowds and high prices. Hot temperatures and high humidity levels, particularly in July and August. Italians largely do not work in August, making it a very touristy time also for internal tourism.
- Autumn | 55-75°F (13-24°C): Pleasant temperatures and fewer crowds compared to summer, with harvest festivals and food events and fall foliage in the countryside perfect for long drives. Rainfall increases quite a bit and some attractions may be closed.
- Winter | 40-52°F (4-11°C): Mild temperatures compared to other parts of Europe, lower accommodation costs, but less things to do and more closed attractions and rainfall.
The Perfect Week in Malta
Puglia is such a lovely place to visit, and your week there will fly by. We’ve split the itinerary into 7 day trips that you can take on from the “hubs” of Bari/Polignano a Mare/Monopoli; Ostuni; and Matera.
Note that what we enjoyed most about this region was just walking around and exploring. While places like Matera and Lecce had more in terms of “must-sees”, we ended up adoring places like Polignano a Mare and Locorotondo, where the main thing to do was just to wander around and enjoy the nice weather. So if this itinerary seems a little less packed with walking tours, museums, and attractions, that’s why. Ultimately, Puglia is a wonderful place to just enjoy yourself, not feeling stressed about “seeing it all” or choosing between too many things to do.
A quick note on driving and parking– yes, it can be challenging. Southern Italian drivers are known for being quite aggressive, and many of these quaint small towns have narrow streets and not much in the way of parking.
We were pleasantly surprised to see that in many areas (e.g., Polignano, Monopoli, Alberobello, etc.) there was a very easy street parking system: blue means paid, white means free, and yellow means residential only. The lines are painted very clearly onto the streets, and blue lines are accompanied by nearby meters.
You can pay with cash or card, or use an app called EasyPark. The app sees where you are using your location and you can link a payment method and virtually “turn on” the virtual meter. The best part is, when you “stop” the virtual meter, it calculates your parking cost to the minute, refunding you if you prepaid. The days of overpaying a meter just in case you’d like to stay longer are over! (Not sponsored.)
Destination 1: Monopoli
Monopoli is a cute-as-a-button seaside town about half an hour from Bari. We were able to find easy (paid) parking in the main square, and then walked to the old town from there.
While there, wander through the narrow alleys and winding streets of the historic center, where you’ll find charming whitewashed houses, ancient churches, and hidden courtyards. Don’t miss landmarks like the 16th-century Baroque Cathedral of Santa Maria della Madia and the Castle of Charles V, which offers panoramic views of the city and coastline.
Spend some time strolling along Monopoli’s picturesque harbor, where fishing boats (called goziz) bob in the water against a backdrop of colorful buildings. The gozzi have become an iconic image of the region, painted in colors according to their town of origin — for example, Monopoli’s gozzi are always painted blue and red.
Note that just a few kilometers from Monopoli you can find the Grotte di Castellana, stunning rock formations and unique stalactites that began to form about 90 million years ago. We didn’t make it here, but it’s supposed to be very cool.
Destination 2: Polignano a Mare
Spoiler alert, Polignano a Mare was our favorite destination– we loved it here and would love to come back to relax for a week or two. We had a great stay at Dimora Dioniso on Via Roma (the main drag of the town) and would definitely recommend it to others (not sponsored).
Keep in mind that the parking can be extra challenging here because it’s so small, so we recommend leaving the car in one place during busy periods and planning any day trips for less busy times. Even in busy times, we were able to find a spot in a white zone, but it was definitely pretty stressful.
The most stunning part of the city for us was the viewpoint at Lama Monachile. Indeed, this is one of the most famous viewpoints in Puglia and (along with the trulli houses of Alberobello), launched the region into its current touristic fervor. We’ll let the images speak for themselves…
Polignano a Mare is also the birthplace of Domenico Modugno, the original singer of “Volare.” The city has done such a cute job with his legacy, with lit-up signs of the lyrics along Via Roma, engraved into benches, and a touching statue of Modugno with his arms outstretched. A love song to the blue sky and blue waters of the region, you’ll hear this earworm everywhere and never get tired of it.
We really enjoyed taking a boat ride with Blue Excursions. It lasted an hour and a half and was limited to 8 passengers, so the smaller boat could navigate into the coves and caves dotting the shoreline. We also had a small aperitivo together which was really fun.
Lastly, wander Polignano’s historic center, where you’ll find whitewashed houses, ancient churches, and charming piazzas. Don’t miss landmarks like the Church of San Vito Martire and the Piazza Vittorio Emanuele II, which offers panoramic views of the sea. Explore the charming alleyways and make your way to the Bastione di Santo Stefano, a scenic overlook offering panoramic views of the Adriatic Sea and the dramatic cliffs of Polignano. Don’t miss the sunsets in Polignano, some of the most beautiful we’ve ever seen.
Destination 3: Alberobello and Locorotondo
And now for one of the highlights of Puglia! Arguably what made the region famous, no visit is complete without checking out the cute little trulli houses at Alberobello.
As with most sites like this, we definitely urge you to get there early in the morning, as it fills up rapidly and is much less enjoyable with crowds and after the large tour groups arrive.
We arrived a little after 9AM and had the place to ourselves for a little bit, which was lovely. It was also quite easy to find parking in a blue area. Note that the parking is a bit more expensive here than in other areas (which stands to reason given its popularity.) We heard that parking runs out really fast, so definitely be sure to arrive early if you’re driving.
As a bit of background, trulli houses are traditional limestone and mortar dwellings with conical roofs which started popping up primarily in the Val d’Itria region back in the 14th century. These little houses are totally unique– as the story goes, they were originally constructed by peasants and farmers on the orders of their feudal overlords, seeking to avoid paying taxes imposed by the Kingdom of Naples on permanent structures.
When the tax man came, they would simply tear down the house. Needless to say, this was not particularly popular with the peasants, and eventually, after several petitions from understandably unhappy citizens, the King granted their wish to become a “royal town” outside of the feudal system.
The conical roofs of trulli houses are built using a technique known as corbelling, where successive layers of stone are laid in a slightly overhanging fashion to create a domed shape. This design helps to regulate the temperature inside the house, keeping it cool in the summer and warm in the winter.
Ironically enough, structures originally conceived to be able to be quickly dismantled have withstood the test of time, and in 1996, the trulli of Alberobello were designated as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Today, visiting the trulli is a must while you’re in Puglia.
Here’s what we recommend doing in Alberobello:
Start at Rione Monti, the heart of Alberobello’s historic center. This area is home to the majority of the town’s trulli houses. Take some time moseying through the maze of narrow streets and alleyways, checking out the whitewashed walls and conical roofs.
Visit the Trullo Sovrano, the only two-story trullo in Alberobello. This unique structure dates back to the 18th century and offers insights into the architecture and lifestyle of the past.
Head towards Piazza del Popolo, the main square of Alberobello, which is lined with shops, cafes, and restaurants. Take a moment to admire the Church of Saint Anthony of Padua, a neoclassical church with a distinctive facade.
Continue your walk to the Aia Piccola, another area of Alberobello known for its trulli houses. This neighborhood is quieter and less touristy than Rione Monti, allowing for quieter exploration and nice photos. Don’t miss the Trullo Church of Sant’Antonio, a small chapel with a conical roof located in the Aia Piccola.
Finish your walking tour at the Belvedere, a panoramic viewpoint overlooking the town of Alberobello and the surrounding countryside.
Bonus: Locorotondo
So… If you’re like us and you saw everything you needed/wanted to in Alberobello, stopped for a cappuccino, and now it’s only around lunchtime… there’s a treat in store. Leave all the hordes of tourists behind at Alberobello and head to Locorotondo. Located in the beautiful Val d’Itria, it’s jam-packed with cute white buildings and has amazing views of the surrounding countryside.
The town’s defensive walls give you panoramic views of the surrounding countryside, including vineyards, olive groves, and trulli houses. The viewpoint near the Church of San Rocco offers particularly stunning options.
Making your way into the town, there are shops and markets galore to discover crafts, ceramics, and other local products. This is a great place to snag some olive oil, cheeses, and other gourmet treats, as well as local wine! Locorotondo is known for its production of crisp white wines made from the Verdeca and Bianco d’Alessano grapes– we can attest firsthand that they are absolutely delicious!
Bonus: Martina Franca
Another bonus: if you still have some extra time, consider checking out Martina Franca nearby.
We were comfortably able to squeeze in a short visit after Locorotondo, and spent about an hour exploring the city center. We started in the Piazza Plebiscito (the main square) and had a great time wandering its narrow cobblestone streets, elegant palaces, and ornate churches. If you want to stay a little longer, you can go into period buildings like the Palazzo Ducale and the Basilica di San Martino.
Destination 4: Ostuni
After a few days in the Polignano a Mare area, we drove the 45ish minutes to Ostuni as our next place to stay for a few days. This drive is beautiful– primary characterized by groves of olive trees as far as the eye can see, you’ll be able to see glowing Ostuni from a far distance, a city originally built atop a hill to protect from invaders that is now a joy to discover as a visitor!
Part of the province of Brindisi, Ostuni is called “the White City” because of the color of its whitewashed buildings– as you explore, you’ll continue to see limestone as a primary building material, but whitewashed this time!
Note that the parking can be challenging here– we were able to find free street parking on the Via Antonio Specchia, but then it was about a 15 minute walk into the old town.
Once you get to the main square (Piazza della Libertà), you’ll start your ascent. As you climb to the top of the historic center, keep an eye out for panoramic views of the surrounding countryside and the Adriatic Sea. The Belvedere Santa Caterina offers one of the best vantage points in the town, with sweeping vistas of the olive groves, vineyards, and coastline below.
However, we actually enjoyed the descent best! The narrow cobbled streets form endless mazes, and the most fun thing to do here in our opinion is just wander. The Cathedral of Santa Maria Assunta was closed when we visited, but is always mentioned as a recommendation– located at the highest point of Ostuni’s historic center, the cathedral’s facade has a rose window and intricate stone carvings, or you can head inside to see lots of Baroque goodness. The Bishop’s Palace (Palazzo Vescovile) and Diocesan Museum are right next door if that strikes your fancy.
Destination 5: Lecce
Lecce is often called “the Florence of the South” due to its many Baroque buildings. It has a fabulous historical center, numerous churches and squares, and ample cafes and shops to enjoy. One of the most striking aspects of Lecce is the Lecce stone (pietra leccese) used to construct many of the buildings in the old town– this gives the city a warm “glow” in full sunlight that feels almost magical.
As you wander through Lecce’s picturesque historic center, check out landmarks such as the Basilica di Santa Croce, Piazza del Duomo, and Palazzo dei Celestini, all adorned with ornate facades and elaborate decorations. The Roman Amphitheater of Lecce dates back to the 2nd century AD and is quite well-preserved! Once hosting gladiatorial contests and other spectacles, it is now used for concerts and events during the summer.
You can buy a pass to visit all of Lecce’s churches, which we did. We’re not sure we recommend it unless you’re a big fan of churches, as they do start to get a bit repetitive (and we’re not huge fans of paying to enter churches… but that’s another topic.) However, this did allow us to see places like the Duomo di Lecce (the city’s main cathedral, dedicated to the Assumption of the Virgin Mary), the Basilica di Santa Croce, and others.
Hands down our favorite thing in Lecce was the Museo Faggiano– you won’t believe the story of this place til you see it! In 2001, while attempting to repair a leaking pipe, the owner of the building, Luciano Faggiano, accidentally discovered a hidden underground chamber. This discovery triggered a law, whereby the Italian government then sent archaeologists, who then conducted a series of further excavations taking almost 8 years. By the end, a complex network of underground rooms, tunnels, tombs, and artifacts spanning various historical periods was uncovered.
The Italian government ended up taking about 95% of the artifacts away for safekeeping, but the family chose to convert the building into a museum nonetheless, showcasing the fascinating archaeological finds uncovered during the excavations, including ancient artifacts, pottery, coins, and (empty) tombs. There’s Messapian history… an old convent… Knights Templar imagery… and a really nice view from the roof.
Truly, this museum will absolutely blow your mind. The entry is only 5€, and the best part perhaps is that the family still runs the museum, so you’ll likely get an introduction from Faggiano himself, his wife, or one of his sons or daughters-in-law. You can also read about the museum and the family’s story in an article written by the New York Times a few years ago here (paywall.)
Lastly, while in Lecce, don’t miss out on the opportunity to try a caffè Leccese– delicious! A shot of espresso over ice with almond syrup, it’s definitely something we’d like to try to replicate at home.
Destination 6: Matera
Matera absolutely blew our minds, and we’d recommend 2 days here if at all possible. There’s so much to do, in fact, that we wrote a post just about Matera with all the best details. However, here are some highlights.
While not in Puglia (you’ll pop into Basilicata to visit Matera), Matera is still an amazing addition to a Puglia road trip because it’s such a quick detour and only about 45 minutes from Bari.
Believed to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world– the 3rd-oldest in fact, with history dating back at least 9000 years, Matera is packed with history, churches, and of course… the incomparable Sassi, or stone dwellings. These ancient cave dwellings are split broadly into 2 districts, the Sasso Barisano and the Sasso Caveoso, and span an intricate network of stone houses, churches, and winding alleyways carved into the limestone cliffs that truly have to be seen to be believed.
You’ll see churches carved into rocks, like the Madonna della Idris, cathedrals built bit by bit from the 1200s, underground grottos, and panoramic views of ancient cave dwellings. Keep in mind that more so than other places on this itinerary, there is a lot to learn in Matera, and we really recommend reading a bit in advance and taking advantage of fantastic museums like the Casa Noha.
While the Matera of today is a tourist’s dream, as recently as 1952 it was called “Italy’s shame” for the deplorable conditions of the sassi. We think it’s really important to keep that in mind as you enjoy the city and marvel at its transformation– from a forced evacuation in 1952, to gaining UNESCO World Heritage Site status in 1993, to being named the European City of Culture in 2019.
For a full 2-day guide to Matera, check out our post.
Destination 7: Bari
Bari is likely where you’ll start and end, and we found it to be pretty much just another big European city. If you’re short on time and need to skip something, Bari is likely what we’d choose. Nonetheless, there are certainly things to check out in Bari, worthy of an afternoon stroll or an overnight stay before you depart.
Bari is the capital of Puglia, and definitely has the “old meets new” of other contemporary cities. If you want to do some shopping at big box stores like Zara, you can do so, or you can wander through the narrow streets and alleys of Bari Vecchia, the historic heart of the city. Don’t miss the medieval architecture, picturesque squares, and charming churches here, as well as the cute elderly ladies making orecchiette (the regional pasta) outside their homes.
The Basilica di San Nicola is one of the most important churches in Bari, as it houses the relics of Saint Nicholas, making it an important pilgrimage site for Christians around the world.
Lastly, take a leisurely stroll along the Lungomare, the scenic seafront promenade of Bari, check out the Castello Svevo, a medieval castle located in the heart of Bari, and explore the Murat district, a lively and elegant area of Bari.
Bonus: Castel del Monte
In between Matera and Bari, we stopped at the Castel del Monte (located about an hour from Bari. This was such a cool stop, and we definitely recommend it. Be sure to get there early in the day to get parking (5 euros cash) and beat the tour groups.
Built in the 13th century by Emperor Frederick II (known as Federico il Grande in Italian), this medieval citadel has a unique octagonal shape and is super intricate (particularly when thinking of the time period!) It’s not clear what this was used for, perhaps a hunting lodge, but it’s a UNESCO World Heritage Site and has beautiful views of the surrounding countryside.
We hope you enjoyed this guide to road-tripping Puglia. Don’t miss our guides to a weekend in Matera and more Italy content, like our guides to hiking the Dolomites, weekend trips to Rome, Taormina, and Venice, and more.
You can pin these guides for later by clicking on the photos below.
