We’d been wanting to visit Edinburgh for ages, and we’re so thrilled we finally made it. After a fabulous 2 days in Glasgow and a serene day trip to Loch Lomond for a “nature break,” we were ready to cross off a major Europe bucket list item… and Edinburgh certainly didn’t disappoint.
Truly, the only word to describe Edinburgh is absolutely, delightfully, enchantingly charming in every way. Between the quaint streets, the lovely people, the amazing food, and the sense of history so strong it could knock you over, Edinburgh far exceeded our expectations.
Despite what a friend of ours called “Epcot-level” manicured streets and shops (as well as enough crowds to make you run screaming for Arthur’s Seat), Edinburgh somehow still managed to feel absolutely beguiling– like it was welcoming you, individually, beckoning you further into its winding streets and cozy nooks, showing you its secrets and bewitching you to stay just a little bit longer.
While its level of curation perhaps could have felt manufactured or disingenuous somewhere else, we were surprised at how laidback and captivating it was, despite how many tourists were there.
In short, we were absolutely smitten with both Edinburgh and its slightly-grittier neighbor Glasgow, and we can’t wait to go back.
We found two days in Edinburgh to be almost, almost enough time to do everything we wanted to do, but we’ll say this…
If you are on a mission for sightseeing only, Edinburgh is doable in 2 days.
But, if you’re thinking you’ll want to relax in a pub with a dram of whiskey (or maybe more than one)… shop-til-you-drop at vintage stores… marvel at the castle and architecture from different angles… or just sit back and let the city work its magic on you, you should really aim for 3 days.
Or forever, either works 😉
Located at the southern end of the Firth of Forth estuary in the Lothian region of the Scottish Lowlands, Edinburgh is the capital of Scotland. It’s also the seat of both the Scottish government as well as the British monarchy at Holyroodhouse Palace. TimeOut rated Edinburgh the “best city in the world” in 2022, and we certainly see the appeal.
Edinburgh has been inhabited all the way back to the Mesolithic period, and has been considered the Scottish capital since around the 15th century. By the 18th century, Edinburgh was a city of contrasts: densely populated and unsanitary on the one hand, but a tremendous center for intellectual thought, called the “Athens of the North” on the other– where great thinkers like David Hume, Adam Smith, and Joseph Black lived and worked.
By the late 1700s, the issues in Old Town could no longer be ignored. Despite increasingly building upwards (leading to some of the world’s first “high rises”) there simply wasn’t enough space. The city held a contest to design a “new town,” won by 27-year-old James Craig.
What is now “New Town” was designed in the Georgian style, featuring orderly grid streets and lots more space than Old Town. Unsurprisingly, only the wealthier inhabitants of Edinburgh could afford to move over there, leading to a rapid class distinction between areas.
This distinction between Old Town and New Town only grew as time passed, with Old Town devolving further into a dangerous slum despite the efforts of many city planners, perhaps most famously Patrick Geddes.
Surprisingly (to us), Glasgow wasn’t the only industrial hub in Scotland– Edinburgh, too, was known for printing, brewing, distilling, and manufacturing rubber. Similarly to Glasgow, the period after the two World Wars saw the city continue to decline. This ultimately led to controversial “slum clearances” in the 1960s and 1970s of the Old Town and an aggressive urban renewal of the area, a contentious path to the picture-perfect Edinburgh we see today.
Like Rome, Edinburgh is said to be “built on 7 hills”: Calton Hill, Corstorphine Hill, Craiglockhart Hill, Braid Hill, Blackford Hill, Arthur’s Seat, and Castle Rock. Castle Hill, Calton Hill, and Arthur’s Seat in particular are really popular with tourists and locals alike, but more on that later.
Ultimately, 2 days in Edinburgh probably isn’t enough– but it’s absolutely worth spending any amount of time there. There are loads of things to do and see, and the close proximity to nature makes it an ideal place for a weekend trip with both urban and natural highlights.
We hope you’ll love this city as much as we did– keep reading for our guide to the perfect weekend in Edinburgh below.
Edinburgh’s airport is the busiest in Scotland, and has lots of regional and international connections each day. While we found it cheaper and easier to fly into Glasgow’s international airport, there isn’t much difference between the two– so really it’s up to you where’s best to fly into. It’s about 9 miles from the airport to the city center.
To get between the airport and the city center, you can take the Airlink bus or the tram. Both are affordable and easy to navigate. Once in the city, walking is often your best bet in the Old Town– this is the best way to explore the cobblestoned streets, the narrow “closes” (alleys), and pop in and out of what strikes your fancy.
There is also a really solid bus and tram system for getting elsewhere in town, and regional connections at transit hubs Waverley and Haymarket for getting to Glasgow or elsewhere in Scotland.
Recommended Reading
Staying There
Warning: we found it quite challenging to find an affordable place to stay even in September shoulder season, as there is quite a housing crisis in Edinburgh. We ended up staying in a great Airbnb in the Haymarket part of town– an easy walk to Old Town, but a bit removed from the crowds (and way cheaper, too.) We also liked how easy it was to get to and from Glasgow from Haymarket, since we flew in and out of Glasgow’s airport. Side note: there’s also a fabulous breakfast place called Nomad Café with the most amazing Scottish-style porridge nearby 😉
In that vein, a small suggestion– if you go the Airbnb route, try to stay in a room with a host rather than a full apartment. Many locals complain that Airbnb has caused a crisis in town, with many apartments serving as holiday stays for Airbnb rather than housing residents that need them. Our host, Greg, was super lovely and we had a very comfortable stay in his spare bedroom. And with the amazing cuisine in Edinburgh, we didn’t even end up cooking much!
Top Things to Do on a Fabulous Weekend in Edinburgh
Both Old Town and New Town are listed as UNESCO World Heritage sites, due to their history and unique character. The dividing line between them is Princes Street and the Princes Street Gardens, which offer stupendous views of Edinburgh Castle.
We were lucky to see a really talented bagpipe player in full Scottish regalia there as well, which was a lovely welcome to the city. Regardless of where you’re headed, Princes Street is a good place to start.
Day 1: Old Town and Arthur’s Seat
The Royal Mile
Walking through Old Town, first and foremost, check out The Royal Mile. It connects Holyroodhouse Palace and Edinburgh Castle, and is the best way to see all the splendor of the Old Town.
Spanning the length of a (no longer used) “Scots Mile”, or 1.8 kilometers, it is made up of loads of small “closes” (alleys) as well as the bigger streets of:
- Castlehill: the oldest part of the Mile, where the city was founded and the Military Tattoo takes place each summer. The incomparable Edinburgh Castle is located on nearby Castle Hill, welcoming a staggering 1.5 million visitors each year.
Full disclosure, we actually didn’t go inside, as we found the 21£ entrance fee a bit too steep. We contented ourselves with the amazing views from elsewhere in Old Town, and you can get quite close to the castle without going inside. If you do choose to go inside, there are cannons, views, and the Scottish Crown Jewels to check out. - The Lawnmarket: A former yarn and linen market home to Lady Stair’s House, Riddle’s Close, and a statue of acclaimed Scottish philosopher David Hume.
- High Street: where you’ll find Tron Kirk (home to a cool maker’s market inside) and the gorgeous St. Giles’ Cathedral, dedicated to the patron saint of lepers and built on the grounds of a sanctuary dating back to the 800s. Go inside to check out the intricate stained glass windows and all the neat flags hanging from the rafters.
- The Canongate: where the city of Edinburgh used to end– keep an eye out for the gold cobbles on the ground demarcating the exact spot. One of Edinburgh’s oldest pubs, The World’s End, is located here. It’s called that because residents used to say Canongate represented “the end of the world.”
- Abbey Strand: the end of the Royal Mile and home to the Holyroodhouse Palace, the official residence of the British monarchy in Scotland. Built in the Baroque style in the Middle Ages, Mary Queen of Scots also lived here for a few years in the 1560s. The monarchs stayed in Edinburgh Castle before, but found it too damp and dreary for their liking, so they built Holyroodhouse.
Edinburgh's closes
While you’re strolling the Royal Mile, don’t miss its variety of “closes,” or small alleyways.
Usually named after a memorable inhabitant, they range in size from super-tiny (and a bit claustrophobic) to just wide enough for a horse and cart to squeeze through back in the day. They were really important for the defense of the city due to their narrowness– you’ll feel like the buildings around them tower over you as you walk through.
A few to check out include:
- Lady Stair’s Close: Home to the Scottish Writers’ Museum and the literary monument at Makars’ Court.
- Riddle’s Court: Our favorite of the closes– walk through to see an authentic tenement building dating back almost 500 years. It’s now home to the Patrick Geddes Center, which honors the legacy of the multitalented Patrick Geddes– biologist, sociologist, and urban planner, among other things.
- Advocates’ Close: Perhaps one of the most “authentic”-looking of the closes, with steep stairs and great views of the Royal Mile and the Scott Monument.
- Mary King’s Close: A rare glimpse into the suffering of the poorest inhabitants of Edinburgh in the 16th and 17th centuries, this close does a great job showing how diseases like the bubonic plague could spread rampantly through its claustrophobic and damp passageways. It is said that in order to stop the spread of the plague, city officials bricked over this close, tragically leaving the inhabitants inside to die. It wasn’t reopened until 2003.
- Brodie’s Close: Named for Deacon Brodie, normal guy by day and wily burglar by night– and the inspiration for Edinburgh native Robert Louis Stevenson’s Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde.
- White Horse Close: Very picturesque, leading to a group of cute white houses.
A few other places in Old Town to explore include:
- Grassmarket: Once a public execution space, Grassmarket is now home to a much less-grisly assortment of bars, restaurants, and the unparalleled Mary’s Milk Bar, home to the best ice cream in town. As you wait, look up for a great vista of Edinburgh Castle.
- Greyfriars Cemetery (and Greyfriars Bobby): Get out the tissues… As you visit the beautiful and serene Greyfriars Cemetery, keep an eye out for a statue of a little terrier. His name is Bobby, and he’s somewhat of a local legend– when his owner John Gray passed away from tuberculosis in 1858, Bobby was inconsolable. Until his death 14 years later, he kept a constant vigil next to John’s grave. Man’s best friend, indeed.
- Scottish Storytelling Centre: A fabulous arts venue located right on High Street, the storytelling centre weaves together traditional storytelling, music, and dance with other types of exhibitions– definitely check out what events they’re hosting when you visit. In particular, check out if local superstar poets Loud Poets have anything on! The Centre also serves as the hub of the acclaimed Scottish International Storytelling Festival each year.
- Armstrongs Vintage Emporium: Possibly the best vintage store ever, budget in some time (and space in your suitcase!) for a visit to Armstrongs. While there are a few locations in the city, the one in Grassmarket is massive and absolutely chock-full of treasures. In particular, keep an eye out for vintage Barbour (or equivalent) waxed jackets, lambswool tartan blankets and scarves, and handmade Aran Islands sweaters.
- National Museum of Scotland: Amazingly, this museum is free! From Scottish history to archaeology, world history, and medieval history, definitely spend some time here during your visit.
- Tip: If you want to try haggis, we recommend MUMS Great Comfort Food! They have both vegetarian and regular haggis. Tegan had the vegetarian and Alex had the regular, and they were both delicious and authentic. Of course, be sure to save space for unbelievably delicious treacle pudding for dessert. When the Scottish say they make food that “sticks to your bones,” they don’t lie!
Arthur's Seat Climb
After you finish up at Old Town, you’re in for a treat. While not necessarily accessible for all activity levels, hiking up Arthur’s Seat is definitely one of the best things to do in Edinburgh for a reason.
It’s a bit steep/challenging, but the views from the top are jaw-dropping. We were lucky to have fabulous weather– blue skies, a nice breeze, and clear views of the city– but we definitely recommend wearing sneakers or shoes with good tread.
The scenery truly is so magical– you’ll feel like a hobbit on a quest! It takes about an hour to get to the top, so budget about 2.5-3 hours round-trip, and consider bringing a picnic.
Arthur’s Seat is technically a volcano, and it’s not entirely clear where the name comes from. Some say that, similarly to other mountains in the UK, it’s named for King Arthur and his adventures. Others say it may be a mistranslation of Àrd-na-Said, or “Height of Arrows,” which then became “Archer’s Seat,” and then eventually became “Arthur’s Seat.”
Note that if you need to use the restroom, the best place to do so (of all places!) is the Scottish Parliament building. You’ll need to go through airport-style security to enter.
Day 2: New Town
Built in stages between the late 1760s and early 1850s, New Town is only “new” in the sense that it’s newer than Old Town. It retains much of its original character and architecture, with lovely Georgian-style townhouses and lots of shopping (both big-box and upscale) along George Street.
Some New Town things to do include:
- Climbing Calton Hill: If you’re in the mood for another “urban walk/hike” after Arthur’s Seat, check out Calton Hill. The Scottish government is based here, at St. Andrew’s House, and there are loads of monuments and official buildings located nearby. In particular, check out the National Monument (in memory of Scottish soldiers who died in the Napoleonic Wars); the Nelson Monument (in honor of Vice Admiral Horatio Nelson); and the Robert Burns Monument, for the adored Scottish poet.
- Scottish National Gallery and Scottish National Portrait Gallery: The National Gallery is home to Scotland’s fine art collections, while the Portrait Gallery is where many, many portraits and sculptures of famous Scots are housed. Both are free (!), and both are housed in gorgeous buildings– in particular, the neo-Gothic sandstone Portrait Gallery is quite something to see!
- Princes Street Gardens: As mentioned above, Princes Street serves as an informal divider between Old Town and New Town, and the Princes Street Gardens are really lovely to walk through. With unbelievable views of Edinburgh Castle among flower beds and walking paths, it’s an ideal way to get from one part of town to the other.
- Walter Scott monument: Ranking as the 2nd-largest monument to a writer in the world (#1 spot going to José Martí’s statue in Havana), this massive marble monument is quite impressive to behold. If you look closely, you can spot 64 statues from the ground of the 68 total. These include 16 famous Scottish poets, as well as characters from Scott’s works. If you look next to the statue of Scott, you’ll see his beloved dog Maida by his side.
All in all, we adored Edinburgh, and we’d love to go back. Just a quick hop from Glasgow, there is so much to learn and explore in this world-class city.
If we’re being honest, we can’t wait to go back to Scotland in general! We felt instantly at home there, and really enjoyed Scottish people and cuisine. We’re looking forward to hopefully going back to the Highlands next year for some hiking– stay tuned.
For more Scotland content, check out our guides to Loch Lomond and Glasgow. You can pin this guide for later here or by clicking on the images below. As always, any tips or reactions? Let us know in the comments.
