After a few years spending our winter break in warmer European locales like Athens, the Cyclades, Malta, Sicily, and Málaga and Córdoba, this year we decided to opt for something totally different and go… about as far north as it’s possible to go.
The Nordics aren’t really a region we’ve explored in depth yet, though the nature offerings make it very high on our list. We had a blast on a winter visit to Norway and have spent a few lovely weekends in Stockholm, so we were eager to cross a few more destinations off the list. With all this in mind, we opted for Finland.
Finland in winter is absolutely one of our favorite places we’ve ever visited! We truly cannot recommend it enough– and urge you to not let the Arctic temperatures scare you away. We absolutely adored our visit there and are already planning another ski trip in Lapland for next year.
Over the course of a week, we split our time between capital city Helsinki (love at first sight!) and the Lapland region, checking out Rovaniemi and Saariselkä (which ended up being our favorite destination of the trip).
We did this visit car-free, relying on public transit and internal flights and trains, and we had an absolutely marvelous time. Despite what we read online, we didn’t feel like we needed a car at any point. We were relieved not to have to drive in such snowy conditions, though the roads are absolutely flawless and professionally plowed multiple times a day. So you can go either way here, but we really loved not needing a car on this trip and were happy to save the cost of a rental + insurance.
If you’d like a guide to Helsinki + Lapland together, we’ve also prepared a full itinerary that you can find here. If you’re not checking out Helsinki this trip, then read on!
We don’t typically go into huge detail on packing lists, as they can be so subjective and everyone has different preferences. HOWEVER, a winter trip to Lapland absolutely hinges upon being well-prepared in the clothing and accessories department! So, we’re mentioning it here first because it’s much more important to have proper clothing in Finland in winter than for other trips. At risk of sounding annoying, Finland is COLD in the winter. If you don’t plan accordingly for this, you will be absolutely miserable.
We did a LOT of prior research about what to wear while in Lapland. As our flight was carry-on only, we didn’t have the luxury of bringing every cold weather item we own, and this is a blessing in disguise because you don’t really need them! Even if you are allowed a checked bag, pack wisely– we saw quite a few people struggling with roller suitcases in the snow.
Lapland typically stays in subzero temperatures from November through April. Rovaniemi and Saariselkä (the two places featured in this post) are among the coldest spots in Finland, with temperatures often dropping below -20°C (-4°F) at night, especially in January and February. Snow cover is guaranteed from December to April (and sometimes into May), making it ideal for winter sports, but necessary to pack the right insulated layers.
- December: -13°C / 9°F to -7°C / 19°F
- January: -17°C / 1°F to -10°C / 14°F
- February: -18°C / 0°F to -9°C / 16°F
- March: -12°C / 10°F to -4°C / 25°F
After all that said, don’t freak out! You don’t have to put on 3000 layers and look like the Abominable Snowman, and you also don’t need to drop hundreds of euros on designer gear.
Smart layering is the way to go. We relied heavily on base layers (like the “warmest” grade of HeatTech from UNIQLO or the Capilene Thermal from Patagonia), and then built up from there.
In general, avoid cotton or other sweat-wicking materials that retain moisture– merino wool or synthetic fabrics designed for cold temperatures are your best bet. The base layers against your skin will keep you warmest, and you want to avoid anything getting damp or letting cold air in.
In general, here’s what your outfit should look like:
- Thermal base layer (top + bottom)
- Fleece layer or 100% wool sweater
- (If doing stationary activity like a Northern Lights tour) Puffer layer like Patagonia Nano Puff
- Snow pants or ski pants
- Ski or snow socks
- Snow jacket, insulated and preferably 20K waterproof
- Gaiter, scarf, balaclava, hat (depending on your preference + activity planned)
- Liner gloves + snow gloves or mittens (mittens are better than gloves for retaining heat)
The key here is that (maybe counterintuitively) you actually don’t want to wear too many clothes. This can cause you to overheat, which can actually make you colder, and it’s just uncomfortable! If you’re doing activities like skiing, stick to the base layer + fleece layer + top layer combo. If you’ll be standing still or outdoors, maybe bring a puffer layer just in case, though you may not even need it. We always ensured that there were no gaps where cold air could get in prior to going outdoors– particularly in the wrists, ankle, and neck area.
The last key tip is to make sure your base layers and socks are dry. If they get damp, change them as soon as possible. We always kept an extra pair of socks handy just in case.
Other than clothes, a few other miscellaneous items really helped us feel more comfortable while spending several hours outdoors in such cold temperatures. It may be hard to believe given the crazy low temperatures, but the layering system really helped! We didn’t feel uncomfortably cold at any point on the trip.
- Hand warmers
- Portable charger (phones die quicker in cold temperatures)
- Refillable water bottle (Finnish tap water is delicious!)
- Small backpack for day trips, skiing
- Nuts and snacks for outdoor activities
- Ziploc bags, travel cutlery for on-the-go lunches
- Toiletries of choice
- Lots of face/body lotion, Vaseline, and lip balm, as the cold will dry you out really fast, particularly on your face – we really recommend Aquaphor! We kept this on us at all times and applied it liberally to our lips and noses.
Getting There
Finland’s main international gateway is Helsinki Airport (HEL), located in Vantaa, about 20 kilometers north of Helsinki city center. To get between Helsinki and Lapland, you have a few options. Internal flights are common and inexpensive, taking 1-2 hours and departing several times each day.
For a bit of a more fun experience, we opted to take the VR train, which was an absolutely fabulous journey! It departs from Helsinki’s central train station at 11PM and arrives in Rovaniemi at around 11AM the next morning. If you book in advance like we did, you can reserve a sleeper cabin for 2 with wifi, bunk beds, toilet, and small shower for as low as 40-50€. You can bring your own food, and there’s a restaurant car as well if you’re in the mood for a hot meal or beverage. The vistas of the wilderness out the window are absolutely swoon-worthy.
For flying, Rovaniemi Airport (RVN) is the primary gateway to the region. It’s a small but well-organized airport, located just 10 kilometers north of Rovaniemi city center. Rovaniemi Airport is especially busy during the winter season, with direct flights from Helsinki and a surprising amount of other European cities. Bus 8 runs between Rovaniemi Airport and the city center, taking about 20 minutes. Tickets cost 5€ and can be bought on the bus.
If you’re heading further north, Ivalo Airport (IVL) and Kittilä Airport (KTT) are also options, serving destinations like Saariselkä and Levi. Both Ivalo and Kittilä airports also offer shuttle services to nearby resorts and towns. For example, Ivalo Airport has shuttles to Saariselkä (about 30 minutes away), and Kittilä Airport has shuttles to Levi (about 20 minutes away).
Recommended Reading
5 Days in Lapland
And now… the itinerary!
Day 1: Rovaniemi
We arrived at the Rovaniemi train station from Helsinki close to lunchtime and headed to our Booking.com apartment accommodation. We found accommodation a bit challenging in Rovaniemi– there weren’t many options in our budget, despite starting our booking process many months in advance. While we would have loved to stay in one of those gorgeous igloo accommodations, they cost upwards of 700€/night, which was definitely out of our budget. We were luckily able to find a nice studio apartment very close to the city center and the bus stop to the ski resort and Santa Claus Village.
Speaking of, Rovaniemi is known worldwide as the official hometown of Santa Claus, which we found sort of cute… but mostly cheesy and commercialized. The town is very touristy and quite pricey, and we didn’t really feel like we connected much with the place itself and don’t think we’d visit a 2nd time. However, the big caveat here is that Rovaniemi is 100% the most convenient gateway to Lapland, and the easiest place from which to access the region. If you’re traveling with a family or group and/or aren’t keen on going further north, Rovaniemi is a fantastic option.
As for us, we got our first taste of the Lappish outdoor offerings we’d been so excited about right away with an afternoon reservation at Ounasvaara Resort for skiing.
Tegan is a new skier, and was very eager to try but also quite nervous. Luckily, Ounasvaara is a great spot for beginners, with gentle slopes, lots of green and blue routes, and stunning views over the city. While Finland is very snowy and very cold, the mountains and slopes aren’t very high, which makes it very beginner-friendly, and one of the green trails is 1500 meters long– excellent bang for your buck in terms of riding the lift!
We were really pleasantly surprised at the prices for lessons as well – a lift pass, gear rental, and a 90-minute private lesson cost only 120€, which was a no-brainer for a beginner. Alex explored the more advanced slopes while Tegan had her lesson on the bunny slope, and then there were plenty of options for us to check out together afterward.
After skiing adventures, we were more than ready for some cozy time “in” for the rest of the evening. We found that the K-Market (local supermarket chain) had absolutely delicious prepared meals, ranging from Korean chicken to sushi and lasagna, at very low prices, which was a lifesaver for us in terms of staying in our budget and not having to spend a lot of time cooking.
Day 4: Santa’s Village, Dog Sledding, and Northern Lights (attempt)
Santa Claus Village, located just 8 kilometers north of Rovaniemi, is one of the most famous Christmas-themed destinations in the world. Open year-round, the village is built on the Arctic Circle, marked by a white line that you can stand on for a cool photo. The village was officially established in the 1980s, but its roots trace back to the 1950s, when Rovaniemi was declared “the official hometown of Santa Claus.”
There’s a cute post office where you can send postcards from the North Pole, a display of letters to Santa from all over the world, some animal tourism (reindeer rides), and a chance to meet the man himself, for about 50€ (needless to say, we did not meet him.) You can take the “Santa Claus Express” bus (#8, the same one that goes to the airport) from Rovaniemi for 3.60€ and be there in about 20 minutes.
Overall, this was a cute way to spend an hour or two (and we were particularly keen on that Arctic Circle photo!) but we were overwhelmed by the tourists and disappointed in the commercialization of the place overall. You can walk around for free, but everything else is ludicrously expensive, and the souvenir ornaments, magnets, etc were astonishingly poor quality. There were absolutely no Finnish or Sami crafts, and each shop had the same low-quality ornaments, stuffed animals, etc at really high prices. This is certainly a better destination for big fans of Santa or for families with children, but we wouldn’t recommend a visit to Rovaniemi exclusively for this. Luckily, there are loads of other things to do as well!
In the afternoon, we booked a husky experience with Bearhill Husky (not sponsored). There are LOADS of dogsledding providers in Rovaniemi, and deciding who to go with was a bit of an overwhelming process.
Here are a few tips:
- Trust your gut when it comes to animal tourism. We are really, really sensitive about this topic personally and really wanted to make sure that the company that we chose had healthy, happy, and well-loved animal companions. Bearhill has loads of positive reviews, a detailed FAQ page (including information about their breeding and care practices), and was the most-recommended option that kept popping up.
“IRL” the dogs seemed very loved, and were very loving in return– while they’re certainly working dogs first and foremost, they also were VERY into cuddles, pets, and kisses, both with the visitors and the mushers. The mushers also told us about their diet, took us on a tour of the kennels, and described their routines and care in detail. For example, the dogs can run up to 80km per day while bearing passengers, but at Bearhill they max them out at around 50km. We were intrigued to learn that they eat steak, specialized kibble, and all sorts of organic snacks. While we aren’t experts by any means, everything seemed good in terms of their care. - As a starting point, we looked at the Visit Rovaniemi page on Husky Sled Rides and Farm Visits. Here, you can narrow down by month and take a look at the different offerings and price points.
- On price points… we definitely had a bit of sticker shock! It’s a very, very expensive activity– the most expensive one we booked in Finland by far. We were glad to be able to filter out most of the more outrageous options, but this is definitely a splurge.
- If (like us) you don’t have a car, be really careful where (geographically) you book. Many of the cheaper options are located quite far outside Rovaniemi and do not include transfer. If you have a car, this is fantastic – you’ll have a lot more flexibility and save quite a bit of money. But if you don’t, Bearhill seemed the best option to us because the transfer was included.
- All providers will ask you for your age, height, and weight, as there are limits for the dogs. Some rides are specifically tailored for kids, and there are all sorts of durations, combination packages, and self-guided vs. officially guided.
- The age, height, and weight contribute to which sled you’re placed in. We were paired with another couple that had a similar build to us, as the sleds each have 4 people + the musher.
Bearhill has a few daily options depending on your group composition, budget, and other factors, and the best one for us was the “Campfire Tour.” While you don’t get to drive the dogs yourself on this option, you get to be out in the wilderness with the dogs for more time. Most of the self-guided treks were only for 5km, and this one was advertised for 15-20km, which made the decision for us– we were more interested in being with the dogs longer than whether or not we got to steer the sled.
We were very, very pleased with this decision– it was so cool to watch the musher work and to get to observe the surrounding wilderness and the dogs while zipping along. At the halfway mark, we had a snack and a hot beverage and got to snuggle with the dogs, who were all absolutely adorable. We were really surprised how eager they were to run! They were absolutely raring to go and so excited, it was truly a treat.
A few other things to note:
- A weird “review” we saw pop up a few times was people complaining about how the dogs looked– i.e., that they were expecting Siberian Huskies and got “mutts”. Important clarification here, we were told that dogsledding dogs in Finland are pretty much always Alaskan huskies (not Siberian.) Alaskan huskies are a mixed-breed designed for training, running and working, as they have the correct temperament, paw features, body type, and coat specifically for this purpose. Many of Bearhill’s dogs also compete in races, some even in the Iditarod!
Also… for the record, we think it’s deeply weird to say that the dogs weren’t beautiful or weren’t cute or whatever, and to review negatively based on the fact that they’re Alaskan and not Siberian, but this is something a few people brought up. We found all the dogs absolutely adorable and so loving, and had a wonderful experience. - Wear ALL your winter layers! (See above.) Bearhill also provides a jumpsuit to go on top of your clothes for extra warmth, as well as blankets, boots, and mittens. Since you’re stationary on the sled it gets quite chilly, and the person in the front seat will get quite a bit of windchill.
**Please note that we are a GetYourGuide affiliate, which means that we may earn a small commission if you choose to book activities via our widget.
After a bit of time thawing from the dogsledding, we wrapped up the day with a Northern Lights tour. After three (!) trips to Norway and Iceland where we didn’t see anything at all, we took things much more seriously this time. While Lapland is one of the best places in the world to see the Northern Lights, it is not a guarantee. Unfortunately, they’re not just waiting there for you, but rather a combination of a lot of different weather factors.
Since we’d tried a few times to see them on our own with no success, this time we made the conscious decision to fork over the money for a guided tour. Similar to dogsledding, the Visit Rovaniemi website has a broad compilation of Northern Lights tours. Again, there is a huge range of price points and details (some include a professional photographer, some have a “guarantee” that allows you to go out as many nights as it takes in order to see them, some are private or paired with snowshoeing, etc.)
The way these work is that after departing from the pickup point, you drive up to a certain amount of kilometers (in the tour description) within a geographic range where the guide is reasonably sure given that day’s weather conditions that the borealis can be seen. Since the guides are supposed to be local experts, the idea is that they have a good chance of guessing where the lights can be seen given how the cloud cover or other factors are looking that day.
Unfortunately, we didn’t see anything. We won’t mention which tour operator we used because it was a very disappointing experience– none of the guides were Finns, we were combined with another giant tour group, and spent 3 hours freezing in a tent waiting for enough time had passed for the guides to take us back to Rovaniemi.
As mentioned in the packing list above, this is a good example of a time when you may want to bring an extra layer, like a puffer. The combination of darkness, cold, and a more stationary activity means that you may feel quite cold! If nothing else, it’s good to have that layer just in case. It’s also good to have a nice warm meal before departing, since you’ll just get some warm juice or similar on the tour.
Our biggest takeaway from the Northern Lights tour is to not book it in advance, but rather go door-to-door on a day with a clear forecast in Rovaniemi comparing available tours and asking whether the conditions are favorable. We had a lot of cloud cover during our trip, which meant there was no visible borealis, but we had to depart on the tour anyway. It was a total waste of time and money, and we got very, very cold for no reason, as it was very clear that no auroras would be seen prior to even departing. Better luck for us next time!
One last note– we would have loved to visit Arktikum, a museum about Lapland’s history and culture, but we just didn’t have enough time. It looked amazing, and we’re very bummed we didn’t have time to visit.
Day 3: Travel to Saariselkä
Today, we traveled way further north into Lapland, into what became far and away our favorite part of our trip. We departed Rovaniemi’s bus depot (note: different location to the train station!) at 8 AM and arrived in Saariselkä (Holiday Village stop) at around 11:30 AM.
The bus trip was beautiful, with stunning vistas of the Lappish wilderness on a comfortable double-decker bus. We booked the tickets for about 40€ each ahead of time via Onnibus.
Saariselkä is a small but lively village nestled in the heart of Lapland’s wilderness, known for its ski resort (the northernmost in Europe!) and access to the stunning Urho Kekkonen National Park, the entrance of which is right in town. Saariselkä is located waaaaaay up north, very close to Russia and about 20 minutes from the small city of Ivalo. This is the furthest north we’ve ever been by far, which was quite exciting!
After checking into our accommodations in one of the holiday villages (called Outapalaikka), we spent the afternoon exploring the village and stocking up on some groceries and other necessities at the nearby Kuukeli Center, which is sort of the town “hub” for several tours as well as a grocery store, cafe, and shop with luggage storage.
We really recommend booking accommodations similar to ours. The apartment had a full kitchen, comfy lounge area, and its own sauna and wood-burning fireplace! Saariselkä in general is an amazing hub for outdoor activities, and the vibe is relaxed and welcoming, a stark contrast to Rovaniemi’s more touristy/consumerist vibe.
There are endless paths to wander, and every outdoor activity you can imagine. We cannot wait to come back here to check out cross-country skiing, and we had a blast wandering through the different walking paths and exploring. We also saw one of the most beautiful sunsets we’ve ever seen, which softened the blow of missing the Northern Lights!
Day 6: Skiing Saariselkä
As mentioned above, the Saariselkä Ski and Sport Resort is the northernmost ski resort in Europe and one of the most stunning places we’ve ever seen. The resort is known for its well-groomed slopes and stunning views of the surrounding mountains, and is fantastic for beginners. Similar to Ounasvaara, the slopes are pretty gentle and there’s so much snow that there is zero risk of icy patches or slush.
To get here from town, you pay 6€ to take the “Ski Bus”, which runs on a regular schedule and offers door-to-door service from the Holiday Village to the ski resort. The 6€ is a per-day fee, so you can go back and forth on the bus. The earliest bus got us to the resort right on time for 9:45AM equipment pickup and a 10AM lesson.
The check-in was totally seamless– we recommend filling out all the info and booking in advance so they just have to scan the barcode and give you your equipment. From there, you can hit the slopes or go over to the school area for a lesson. The instructors here are fantastic with beginners, and the slopes are perfect for building confidence. It also wasn’t too crowded, and the on-site restaurant has delicious local food and pastries and even better hot chocolate.
The day absolutely flew by here, and the long twilight hours in winter make for a unique skiing experience! We are already planning to come for a whole week to ski here next year, as a day wasn’t nearly enough.
Day 7: Snowshoeing and Departure
After checking out of our accommodation and dropping off our luggage at the Kuukeli luggage point (5€ per bag per day) we headed over to Outdoor Expert Saariselkä for our 2-hour snowshoeing tour in Urho Kekkonen National Park.
This was such a peaceful and gorgeous way to end the trip. The park is one of Finland’s largest, with over 2,500 square kilometers of wilderness. We trekked through snow-covered forests, spotting reindeer, fox, and bunny tracks and learning about the local flora and fauna. Urho Kekkonen, the park’s namesake, was a former president of Finland and a passionate advocate for preserving Finland’s natural landscapes, and our guide was super knowledgeable, also about Sami culture. We were in a group of 6, which was the perfect size for this activity. Note that while technically you can rent snowshoes and go out into the park on your own, with the winter conditions we felt more comfortable having a guide.
After the snowshoeing, we took one of the town’s many, many walking trails to a true hidden gem– the Mettäbaari Forest Bar. Nestled in the forest, this cozy little place is the perfect spot for a break from the cold and snow. We had delicious hot chocolate and pancakes with jam, which fortified us for the rest of the afternoon outdoors.
In the evening, we took the bus from town to Ivalo Airport for our 6:30 PM flight back to Helsinki. Ivalo Airport is Finland’s northernmost airport and it’s absolutely tiny– it seems primarily flights to Helsinki depart from here. There’s a very convenient bus from town that will take you door to door from the Holiday Village to the airport for 12€ each. The flight back to Helsinki is only about an hour, and from there you can connect to your next destination.
We hope you enjoyed this guide and that is was helpful and encouraging for you in planning your visit. As for us… we are already dreaming of our next winter adventure here in Lapland! Check back here next year for updates on outdoor fun, as we’re already planning a week in Saariselkä just for skiing.
