Málaga and Córdoba: A Weekend in Andalucía

by Tegan

Andalucía in the winter is unparalleled in our opinion– it’s warm and balmy, the sky is a dreamy electric blue, and you’ll just want to bask in the sunshine all day! Just in case that wasn’t enough, the food and drinks are to-die-for, and there are all sorts of iconic cultural and historic places to explore. 

In particular, the region has a long and varied history, with Phoenician, Greek, Carthaginian, and Iberian influences stretching back thousands of years before the common era. It rose to prominence in the early 200s BCE as a Roman province, and fun fact: legendary emperors Hadrian and Trajan were both born here. 

Roman rule lasted until the region was taken over by the Vandals in the 500s CE, and later by the Moors in 711 CE. Here’s where (in our opinion) things get extra fascinating. The first Moors came to Andalucía from Morocco, bringing architecture, religion, and lots of words that were incorporated into what is now the Spanish language. Most notably perhaps is the name of the region– al-Andalus. 

While the caliphates changed over time (the Umayyads, Almoravids, and Almohads, to name a few) the region remained largely under Arab control for centuries, and absolutely flourished. While the rest of Europe was still in the Dark Ages, Andalucía was home to a vibrant melting pot of cultures and religions that led to beautiful architecture, unparalleled scientific discoveries, and high levels of wealth through trade. The region was under Castilian control by the time of Ferdinand and Isabella (of Christopher Colombus fame, or perhaps infamy), but retains this “melting pot” vibe into the present day.

Luckily, many of Andalucía’s cities are pretty small and walkable– totally doable in a day or two apiece traveling by train. Two in particular can easily be done together in a weekend trip: Málaga and Córdoba. Simply fly into Málaga’s airport, and Córdoba is only an hour or so away. 

From there, you can continue your train travels by checking out Sevilla, just 45 minutes away from Córdoba, or Granada, which is about an hour and a half from either Córdoba or Málaga. 

For those seeking more extensions, consider Ronda or Cádiz– both further away and a bit less accessible by public transport, but absolutely marvelous destinations.

1 Day in Málaga

Málaga’s location on the famed Costa del Sol gives it extra “bang for your buck” as it doubles as a seaside destination as well as a hub for architecture, history, and food. It’s quite inexpensive in comparison to other European cities, so you can eat delicious tapas to your heart’s content without feeling too guilty… taking advantage of the opportunity to enjoy jamón ibérico, fresh-squeezed juices, seafood delicacies, and more. 

The Málaga–Costa del Sol Airport is actually one of the busiest in the whole country (Madrid, Barcelona, and Palma Mallorca are the only busier ones!) which makes it a convenient hub for visiting the Andalucía region, with lots of flights in and out at reasonable prices. When we visited in winter 2022, our easyJet tickets were only 30 euros apiece (!), a total steal. There’s a regular train service from the airport to the city center, minimum once every half-hour or so, and it’s super easy to buy your ticket and navigate your way there. Tickets cost about 2.5 euros each way.

Málaga has great shopping, beautiful squares and fountains, and spacious, wonderful walking streets. One of the best parts of the visit is taking advantage of the pedestrian-only areas for a stroll, whether snaking along the coast or in the shopping districts. Majestic palm trees frame wide boulevards, and even in winter you’ll feel a sense of sunny serenity walking around.

Here are our recommendations for a great day in Málaga:

  1. Visit the Roman Theater and the Alcazaba. The Roman Theater is thought to date back to the reign of Augustus, in the 1st century– so it’s in pretty good shape all things considered! Just above the theater, the Alcazaba is said to be the best-preserved Moorish-era fortress in all of Spain, dating back to the 1200s. There’s a lot to explore at the Alcazaba, and it’s worth visiting early in the morning to have it to yourself, with one caveat– if you’re visiting on a Sunday, admission is free after 2:30 PM, which is also worth taking advantage of.

     

  2. Hike up to the Castillo de Gibralfaro. When you’re finishing up at the Alcazaba, there is a scenic walkway path called Paseo Don Juan de Temboury on the southern side, which is a way to climb up the steep hills to the Mirador de Gibralfaro and Castillo de Gibralfaro. You can also reach both of these sites via a route on the opposite side– we actually did both trails, and they’re both splendid! Hiking up to the castle, which is also a Moorish structure dating back to the 1100s, is a great way to walk off some of those tapas and a short, fairly strenuous hike. The path is largely protected (watch out for bikes, mainly) and offers winding views of the city and ocean. This was the highlight of our time in Málaga– so much so that, again, we did it twice.

  3. Check out the Catedral de la Encarnación de Málaga and Iglesia del Sagrado Corazón. Located right by each other, they offer distinctive architectural choices, with the cathedral done in Renaissance style and the Sagrado Corazón done in Neo-Gothic style. Note that due to money issues, the cathedral was never finished– locals call it “La Manquita” because it appears to be missing an “arm.”

  4. Shop til you drop. From couture and high fashion in the city center to local goodies at the Atarazanas Market and boutiques along the scenic Port of Málaga, the city has no shortage of shopping opportunities.

  5. Have your fill of tapas and wine. There are a variety of delicious tapas restaurants in the city. Unfortunately, a lot of them are tourist traps, and it can be hard to tell what’s authentic. We asked at our hostel check-in where they recommended, and they suggested Casa Lola, which has several locations in the city. We spent hours snacking and drinking sangria at the outdoor patio at their Uncibay location and super recommend it.

  6. Go for a swim or a stroll at iconic Malagueta or Playa Pedregalejo. There is no shortage of beautiful beaches along the Costa del Sol, and these two are both walking distance from the center of town.

  7. Explore Picasso’s Museum. Málaga’s most famous son, Pablo Picasso, has his own museum in town that is worth visiting even if you’re not a huge fan of his work. The museum is located in a beautiful former palace, and has over 200 original works by Picasso. His birthplace in Plaza de la Merced is only a few blocks from the museum, with a neat statue. Other museums worth checking out include the Carmen Thyssen Museum, which houses primarily Andalucian works in a Renaissance-era palace, or the Centre Pompidou Málaga, an “offshoot” of the modern art museum with the same name in Paris.

  8. Bonus: if you have some extra time, consider renting a bike and checking out the nearby Montes de Málaga, a huge regional park located just a few kilometers outside the city. 

Alternatively, if you’re staying in town longer, a very common day trip is to the Caminito del Rey. Tickets must be booked ahead of time via the government’s official website and are non-exchangeable. However, don’t make the mistake we did! 

Other blogs and write-ups make it seem like it’s really easy to do this day trip without a car, neglecting to mention that there is only 1 train going there per day. 

The train leaves Málaga at 10 AM and drops you off at El Chorro at around 10:45, and it’s apparently a bit of a walk from the station to the entrance. The returning train goes back to Málaga at 3:50 PM. This means that you must book an entrance time between 11:30 and 1:30 PM in order to have enough time to walk the 8 km trail and get back on the returning train. Sadly, we booked tickets for the first entry at 8 AM and weren’t able to use them due to a lack of transport. Hopefully next time… but we hope at least you guys can learn from our mistakes!

1 Day in Córdoba

Again, it’s super simple to get from Málaga to Córdoba for a day trip. Just hop on the Renfe train that suits your schedule, and you’ll be there in an hour or so. Córdoba has a smaller-town feel than Málaga does– overall more cozy, quaint, and picturesque, but also much more touristy. Since it’s so small, it gets very crowded, especially in the afternoons and evenings. So, as always, we recommend hopping on the first train from Málaga in order to take advantage of the drowsy morning feel. We had a lovely time wandering around the Old Town before the shops opened and tour groups arrived.

Overall, you’ll love Córdoba. It’s postcard-perfect, with beautiful architecture, great food, friendly people, and, of course, the Mezquita. A day is the perfect length of time here to see all the sights, including its 4 UNESCO World Heritage sites. 

Here are our recommendations for a fabulous day in Córdoba.

  1. As soon as you arrive, make a beeline for the Mezquita. It goes without saying that this is the attraction in Córdoba, and perhaps tied with the Alhambra in Granada for the most iconic Andalucian historic hotspot. And let us tell you… it does not disappoint. Islam and Christianity meet in this mosque-turned-cathedral dating back to 785 CE, and you could spend hours admiring its red-and-white arches, ornate mihrab section, and sweeping domed ceilings. The light reflects in beautiful rainbows on the floor, and there is artwork galore to admire. The Córdoba Mezquita is one of those once-in-a-lifetime, bucket list items that we’d always wanted to see, and it was worth the wait.

  2. Meander the cute streets of La Judería. The old Jewish Quarter is both historic and adorable. The signature, white-washed buildings decorated with hanging flower pots are a great photo op, especially at popular Calleja de las Flores. Don’t miss the Almodovar Gate, which dates back to Moorish times and serves as one of the entrances to the neighborhood.

  3. Walk across the Roman Bridge of Córdoba. It was originally built in the 100s BCE by the Romans, but was extensively renovated by the Moors during their tenure. The bridge is quite spectacular on its own, but don’t miss the Calahorra Tower on the other side– also a Moorish construction.

  4. Explore the Alcázar de los Reyes Cristianos. Dating back to 1328, it has lush gardens and (in the winter) a stunning grove of orange trees in bloom. It was once one of the primary residences of Ferdinand and Isabella, and you may be surprised at its simplicity and peacefulness. It was refreshing to see so much love and care devoted to the gardens, rather than to a flashier Versailles-style interior.

  5. Bonus: If you visit in May, don’t miss the Festival de los Patios, where residents of the city open their patios to the public, participating in a citywide contest. These patios were originally constructed to keep residents cool in the pre-AC days, so the associated downside to a visit at this time of year (or anytime in the summer) is that it is ungodly hot. For that reason, we love a winter visit 😉

Again, if you have longer than a weekend to spare, definitely consider visiting Granada or Sevilla. Both are quite close by– between 45 minutes and 1.5 hours by train– and are home to absolute treasures, as well as delicious cuisine, flamenco dancing, and museums. 

The Alhambra complex in Granada in particular is a life-changing experience, and Sevilla, the capital of Andalucía, is considered one of Europe’s most cultured cities. Don’t miss the Royal Alcazár, Plaza de España, and the cathedral if you visit. 

In general, anywhere in Andalucía is wonderful for a winter visit. In summer the region is known as the “frying pan of Europe,” and gets so hot that many locals flee in search of cooler climes, leaving the cities packed with sweltering tourists. Our tip? We’d pick the winter anytime, but a visit at some point in your life is a must. 

We hope you found this guide useful for planning a quick trip to Andalucía! We hope to make it to Ronda and Cádiz soon– for history buffs like us, the list of cool places in Southern Europe is just endless. 

Speaking of… stay tuned for history-oriented guides to Taormina, Siracusa, and Ortigia, Sicily, coming your way soon. If you missed it, you can check out our guide to a stress-free tour of historical sites in Rome here. If you’d like to save this guide for later, you can pin it here or by clicking on the photos below. As always, we’d love any comments or suggestions, and you can keep up with us on Instagram or Facebook

Hasta la próxima! 

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