Under-the-Radar Rome: Your Repeat Visit Guide

by Tegan

We’re biased, but Rome has to be near the top of any list of the best cities in the world. Eminently walkable, achingly beautiful, and historical to boot– what more could anyone want?

There are certain things any first-time visitor to the Eternal City absolutely must do. You’ve probably heard of most of them, but here’s a (probably still incomplete) list, grouped loosely by geography: 

  1. The Trevi Fountain, Piazza di Spagna, the Spanish Steps, and Trinità dei Monti church
  2. Piazza del Popolo, Santa Maria Maggiore church, Galleria Borghese, and Villa Borghese
  3. Piazza Venezia and l’Altare della Patria, National Monument to Victor Emmanuel II (AKA the “Wedding Cake”), Via dei Fori Imperiali, the Roman Forum, and the Coliseum 
  4. The Pantheon and Piazza Navona 
  5. Piazza San Pietro and Basilica San Pietro; Vatican City and the Vatican Museums; the Castel Sant’Angelo and the Sant’Angelo Bridge
  6. Via del Corso and Via Condotti shopping streets
  7. Bocca della Verità
  8. Campo dei Fiori, Via del Governo Vecchio, Piazza dell’Orologio 
  9. Trastevere and Basilica of Our Lady in Trastevere
  10. Piazza del Campidoglio, Capitoline Museums, Museum of Art and Archaeology

As we mention in our dedicated post for a first-time visit to Rome, our biggest tip for these is to wake up at the crack of dawn and beat the crowds. If you wait until after breakfast to visit any of these sites, you’ll be fighting other visitors (and unfortunately, probably pickpockets) left and right. 

When early birds get photos like this:

Since Rome is a prime location for a repeat visit, we thought we would also write some tips for a more under-the-radar experience– some museums, parks, and parts of the city that are a bit less transited, but still really popular and beautiful. 

Many people make the mistake of only visiting the big tourist sites, and then declare Rome “too dirty,” “too chaotic,” “too noisy,” and never return. This is such a tragedy, y’all!

As we mentioned in other Rome content, Tegan studied abroad there when she was 19, and it remains among the most formative and beautiful experiences of her life. As a result, she will defend Rome tooth and nail to anyone who says otherwise 😉 

(And, hot take… Rome IS better than Florence.)

So, if you’ve already tossed your coin into the Trevi, stuck your hand in the Bocca della Verità, and marveled at the Sistine Chapel, it’s time for this list. Enjoy!  

Under-the-Radar Rome: Sights + Tips for a 2nd (or 3rd, or 4th!) Visit to the Eternal City

1. Marvel at the size of the Terme di Caracalla

Frankly, we have no idea why this isn’t on every itinerary of Rome– it’s magnificent. Built in the early AD 210s during the reigns of Septimius Severus and his son Caracalla, they were at the time the second-largest baths in Rome. 

Given that it’s estimated that up to 8,000 people could visit here every day, you can begin to get an idea of the sheer scale. Caracalla is remembered by history as one of Rome’s worst and cruelest leaders, but his legacy lives on in a different way here, with intricate floor mosaics and dizzyingly tall structures that have withstood the test of time. The cost to enter is 8 euros per person and the walking guide is excellent.

2. Bike or stroll the Appian Way

“All roads lead to Rome” as the saying goes– and at one point in history the Appian Way was one of the foremost examples. Constructed to connect Rome and Brindisi (in southeast Italy), it was a crucial transit point for military ventures during imperial times. Today, you can still walk about 16 kilometers of it, and it’s a lovely, verdant walk with lots of catacombs, ruins, and churches to peek into. It starts right near the Baths of Caracalla, so you can make a day out of it. Consider renting a bike!

3. Peek through the Aventine Keyhole

This used to be one of those “well-kept secrets” back in 2013, but a recent visit showed us that it’s really no longer a secret at all. However, even if you have to wait in line a bit, it’s still worth a visit. Home to the Priory of the Knights of Malta (a sort-of relation of the Knights Templar from medieval times), forest-green walls guard a small church and grove of trees. 

Peeking through the keyhole, the cupola of St. Peter’s Basilica is perfectly outlined in the center. Fun fact: similarly to the Vatican, inside the walls is technically not Italian territory.

4. Visit some churches that aren’t St. Peter’s: 

Rome is absolutely chock full of incredible churches. There’s over 900 of them, and it would likely take you a lifetime to see them all. Once you’ve enjoyed St. Peter’s, check out some other options: 

  • Basilica of St. Paul Outside the Walls, founded on St. Paul’s burial place by Constantine I. It has a marvelous facade
  • Archbasilica of Saint John Lateran, the oldest church in Rome (dating back to 324.) It is the seat of the bishop of Rome (AKA the Pope) and the highest-ranking church. Note that the seat of the bishop of Rome is not, contrary to popular belief, St. Peter’s. Also, yes, you have to be a reeeeally big deal to get a designation as an “archbasilica” 
  • Basilica di Santo Stefano Rotondo al Celio, dating back to the 400s and linked to Hungarian patron saint Stephen I
  • Santa Prassede for lovely mosaics, built on top of an ancient thermal bath complex
  • San Luigi dei Francesi for (we think) one of Caravaggio’s best paintings, “The Calling of St. Matthew” and 2 other paintings depicting Matthew’s life. It’s right by Piazza Navona, as well as the slightly hard-to-find Sant’Ivo alla Sapienza, which is lovely, too. 
  • Santa Maria Addolorata is a fairly new church, only dating back to 1910. It was built from donations from Argentine bishops but still has a distinctly “Byzantine” style.
  • Basilica Santa Maria Sopra Minerva got its name from being built directly on top of a temple to Minerva, they thought at the time. Today, we know it was actually a temple to Isis, but anyway, it’s the only Gothic-style basilica in Rome. Don’t let its rather plain exterior fool you!

5. See the city from atop the Belvedere del Gianicolo

Just a quick trek from the Trastevere neighborhood with splendid views of the city below.

6. A green escape in Villa Doria Pamphilj

Similar to the Villa Borghese, it began as a private residence for the Pamphili family. When the Pamphili branch of the family died out in the mid-1700s, their lineage mixed with the Doria family. The city bought the space in the 1950s, though the family still lives in Rome (in the home-museum Galleria Doria Pamphilj, read about that below!) There are lots of trails and large spaces, and the Bel Respiro house is open to the public. 

7. Explore Isola Tiberina 

If you look at a map, you’ll see there’s an island in the middle of the Tiber– this is the Isola Tiberina, a cute little place that’s definitely worth at least a few minutes. 

After you’ve meandered, don’t miss the neighborhood behind it! There are lots of Roman ruins here that back up to the Roman Forum, but it’s often a bit less crowded. It’s home to Rome’s “Jewish Ghetto” (a great place for artichokes in season) and lots of delicious restaurants as well. 

8. Check out street art in the Ostiense neighborhood.

Ostiense is a good place to visit both for street art and for a slightly different view of Rome that’s a bit grittier and showcases different architecture and vibes.

9. Visit Shelley, Keats, and others in the serene Non-Catholic Cemetery.

 Also sometimes called the English Cemetery or the Protestant Cemetery, this place is a serene little gem in the Testaccio neighborhood that is often overlooked, dating back to a time when Catholics and non-Catholics couldn’t be buried together. 

The cypress trees and other blooms lend it an air of calm contemplation, and the nearby Pyramid of Cestius is a sudden ancient Roman addition (dating back to 8 BC.) If you’re a Keats or Shelley fan, you can also visit their house near the Spanish Steps. 

10. See “Rome’s response to Gaudí” in the Quartiere Coppedè.

Located right by Piazza del Popolo, there’s a small area filled with Art Deco and Art Nouveau accents designed by the whimsical architect Gino Coppedè. It’s totally different to the rest of the city and very cute, especially the Frog Fountain!

11. Spend time at museums that aren’t the Vatican.

  • Palazzo Altemps: small, Renaissance era palace with ancient sculptures, today part of the Roman National Museum
  • Villa Farnesina: Renaissance-era villa with astounding frescoes
  • Galleria Doria Pamphilj: home to one of the most valuable private art collections in the world, in the house where the family still lives– very cool use of space and public-private spheres coming together
  • Palazzo Colonna: only open on Saturday mornings, because the family still lives here as well, but looks like a mini-Hall of Mirrors from Versailles– really startlingly opulent 

12. Clamber around the ruins at Ostia Antica (day trip)

Ostia Antica, Ancient Rome’s seaport and harbor, is a super-cool day trip, especially if you’re not able to go to Pompeii. While admittedly not quite as jaw-dropping as Pompeii, it’s still remarkably well-preserved, and you’re allowed to climb and jump all over the ruins to your heart’s content.

13. Hop over to Villa d’Este (day trip)

Located in Tivoli, a town very close to Rome, is the UNESCO World Heritage site Villa d’Este, a luxurious 16th century villa boasting fountains, gardens, and a water organ. It has been lovingly restored through the centuries and is absolutely worth a visit. 

14. Check out Porta Portese flea market or Testaccio food market 

Porta Portese is Rome’s oldest Sunday flea market, and a veritable maze of anything you can imagine for sale. The food market in Testaccio is also a Roman institution, open daily except for Sundays. Both are worth visiting if you’re in the area or at loose ends for the day. Be really careful of pickpockets, but otherwise be prepared to shop-til-you-drop and have a lovely time.

All in all, Rome is a city to be enjoyed time and time again. We hope this guide helps you get off-the-beaten-path a bit more while you’re in town. Did we miss something? Just let us know in the comments!

For more Italy content, check out our winter guide to Lake Comoand our quick day guide to Milan (perfect for a layover or half-day!) And just in case you missed it above… if you’ve stumbled upon this guide and you’re actually on your first visit to Rome, we have a guide for that with all the best tips! As always, you can save this guide for later on Pinterest by clicking here (or on the photos below!) and check us out on Instagram or Facebook

Ciao, tutti!

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