Oh, Venice… where to begin? Absolutely one of the world’s dreamiest cities, it’s sure to captivate and enchant you. It’s achingly beautiful, charming and mysterious, and catches everyone in its orbit in some way.
However, it’s impossible to speak about Venice without also mentioning its wealth of challenges– namely, those related to overtourism and climate change. It’s essential to be a respectful and contemplative tourist here– avoiding accumulating trash, trying to visit in the off-season, and generally doing your part to keep the city beautiful.
Venice is absolutely a bucket list destination, and a truly special and magical place. However, our visit showed us that there are definitely some distinct practices to ensure you have the best time possible, from the practical to the considerate.
Eco-recommendations
Visitors like us can play a crucial role in supporting the preservation and sustainable development of the city. This can mean:
- Supporting local restaurants, cafes, and shops
- Being mindful of waste
- Choosing hotels and accommodations that have a commitment to sustainable practices
- Utilizing water buses (vaporetti) and public boats rather than private motorboats
In particular, Venice faces significant issues with the availability of freshwater, so it’s good to be mindful of your water usage, especially in the shower.
Practical recommendations
As Venice is heavily impacted by overtourism during peak seasons, we recommend planning your visit during less busy times to help reduce the strain on the city’s infrastructure and environment. This may also help your own enjoyment, as the city gets so jam-packed in the summer that it’s almost impossible to walk down the narrow streets.
However, if you find yourself in a situation like ours, where the Dolomites hiking season makes a peak season visit necessary, we’ve accumulated some tips to share:
- Our biggest tip is to wake up as early as you can. We woke up at sunrise both mornings and spent a few hours before breakfast exploring the city calmly, taking gorgeous golden-hour photos and enjoying the “calm before the storm” and the cooler temperatures. We firmly think this is the best way to see the city in peak season, even if a little afternoon nap is necessary later.
- Relatedly, if you want to visit Murano and/or Burano, we recommend doing this early in the morning and going to Burano first, since it’s farther away. The vaporetti start quite early in the morning (around 5:30), and Burano is peaceful and lovely before the cruise ship visitors arrive mid-morning.
- If this isn’t possible, consider visiting at the end of the day, when the day-trippers have left. Either way, evening strolls after the day visitors have departed are one of the most romantic times to see the city.
- If you’re interested in any of the city’s art galleries, particularly the Doge’s Palace, the Accademia, and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, it’s a good idea to book tickets as far in advance as you can and purchase “skip-the-line” options if available.
- During peak season, Venice will get hot, particularly at midday. Be sure to stay hydrated (tap water is totally safe to drink!) and protect yourself from the sun, reapplying that sunscreen.
- It’s also critical to utilize public transportation strategically. One of the best ways to see the city is to ride the vaporetti up and down the Grand Canal. You’ll get absolutely fabulous photos and you can ride them as much as you want with a day pass. However, transit gets absolutely mobbed in the afternoons, making a beautiful and scenic experience chaotic and stressful. If you’re exploring in the afternoon, it may be easier to walk!
Quick history
Venice, nicknamed “the Floating City,” is a unique and enchanting city located on 18 islands in northeastern Italy’s Veneto region. It has arguably one of Europe’s richest histories, packed with remarkable achievements and events.
Founded around the 5th century CE by people fleeing the Barbarian invasions on the mainland, the marshy islands in the Venetian Lagoon formed the foundation of what would become Venice, with the earliest settlements focused on fishing and salt production.
During the 8th century, Venice became part of the Byzantine Empire. It gained increasing autonomy over time, with its own government and elected leaders, known as the Doges. In 810, Venice declared its independence from Byzantine rule, and its strategic location in the Mediterranean made it a vital trading hub between Europe and the East. It established extensive maritime trade routes, particularly with the Byzantine Empire, the Islamic world, and later with the Mongols and other Asian powers. Through this lucrative trade, Venice accumulated immense wealth, becoming one of the most prosperous and influential cities in Europe through the Crusades.
By the late 12th century, Venice evolved into a republic ruled by a powerful oligarchy of noble families. The Great Council, made up of wealthy merchants and nobles, held significant power, while the Doge served as the ceremonial head of state. Despite occasional internal conflicts, this system maintained political stability for several centuries and flourished during the Renaissance period, fostering an environment that nurtured art, architecture, and literature. Renowned painters such as Titian, Tintoretto, and Veronese emerged during this era, leaving behind a legacy of stunning artworks that can still be admired in Venice today.
In the late 15th century, the discovery of new sea routes and the rise of powerful maritime nations like Portugal and Spain diminished Venice’s dominance in trade, and the city began to decline economically and militarily. In 1797, Napoleon’s forces conquered Venice, putting an end to the Venetian Republic. The city then came under Austrian rule until the 19th century, when Italy’s unification led to Venice becoming part of the Kingdom of Italy.
In recent times, Venice faces ongoing issues related to rising sea levels, overtourism, and the preservation of its unique cultural heritage, discussed a bit more below, as well as the impact of two World Wars on the European continent.
Current challenges
As mentioned above, it is critical to spend time discussing the issues that Venice currently faces in order to be a well-informed traveler, as its swoony location and popularity have led to a variety of challenges, as well as challenges related to climate change, like:
- Rising sea levels: As the sea level increases, the city’s low-lying islands and canals are at risk of flooding more frequently and at higher levels. This phenomenon, known as acqua alta, has become increasingly severe in recent years, causing significant damage to buildings and infrastructure.
- Subsidence: Venice is built on wooden pilings driven into the marshy ground of the Venetian Lagoon. Over the centuries, excessive extraction of groundwater and natural compaction of the soil have caused the city to sink. This subsidence exacerbates the impact of rising sea levels, making the flooding situation even more challenging to manage.
- Erosion: Relatedly, the constant flow of water through the city’s canals and lagoon contributes to erosion of the foundations of its buildings, which weakens the structural integrity of historical buildings, leading to potential collapse and further exacerbating the city’s vulnerability to flooding.
- Decline of the Lagoon’s ecosystem: The Venetian Lagoon is a delicate and unique ecosystem disrupted by pollution, erosion, and invasive species introduced by maritime traffic.
More immediately relevant to travelers are the impacts that tourism has on the city, such as:
- Overtourism: Venice attracts millions of tourists each year, placing tremendous stress on its fragile ecosystem and infrastructure. The influx of visitors leads to increased waste generation, air pollution from transportation, and the degradation of historical sites due to wear and tear.
- Pollution: Water pollution is a significant concern in Venice. Although efforts have been made to improve the water quality of the canals, the constant flow of boats and ships, as well as waste discharges, can still contribute to contamination.
- Loss of traditional Venetian lifestyle: As the city faces environmental challenges and overtourism, some residents have been forced to move away from the city center due to high living costs and other issues. This has led to the loss of the traditional Venetian way of life and a decline in the local population– indeed, it’s now at its lowest level ever.
While efforts are being made to address these issues and better protect the city, it’s critical to be informed about this as a tourist and not contribute to the problem.
Full disclosure, we visited in the peak summer season because it’s the only time hiking in the Dolomites is possible. However, we don’t think we’ll visit in summer again. It feels a bit too much like contributing to the problem, and we felt uncomfortable with the actions of other tourists and how packed the city was.
We saw a lot of people behaving badly while here, and it really broke our hearts. The city is in the process of launching a system to more effectively manage visitor flows, and this seems like a great idea to us.
Ultimately, if we want Venice to be around to continue to enchant future generations, being a responsible tourist is essential.
Getting There & Staying There
The easiest way to get to Venice is by plane, into its very conveniently-located Marco Polo Airport, named for arguably its most famous native son. From there, you have a few options:
- Water bus (vaporetto in Italian) run by the private “Alilaguna” water bus service. They stop at various points in the city, just ask where you’re needing to go when you buy the ticket. As of summer 2023 tickets cost 27€ round-trip, and the journey takes around 45 minutes and is very scenic, stopping in Murano and offering great vistas of the lagoon.
- Bus: You can take the ACTV bus line 5 directly from the airport to Venice’s Piazzale Roma. From there, you can easily access other parts of the city via vaporetto or foot.
- Private water taxi: If you’re seeking to splurge, you can also hire a private water taxi. These taxis can take you directly to your hotel or desired location in Venice and go much faster than the Alilaguna, but can be very expensive.
Venice is arguably one of the world’s most pedestrian-friendly cities. With the canals and narrow streets, there are no cars, bikes, motorcycles, or scooters– just foot traffic and boats. As such, the vast majority of the city’s attractions are best explored on foot. It merits finding a hotel or accommodation in the city center to best maximize your time, but finding a budget-friendly option can be challenging.
That said, we stayed at a wonderful bed and breakfast called La Terrazza dei Miracoli in the Cannaregio neighborhood that we definitely recommend. Not only was it in a fabulous location just a few minutes’ walk from the Grand Canal, but it was a bit away from the tourist hubbub and the owner, Antonella, was absolutely lovely. The B&B was formerly her grandmother’s home, and it was wonderful to hear her stories about her nonna growing up. Cannaregio felt a bit more “authentic” than other neighborhoods to us, and we really recommend the area.
However, for the sake of providing a full scope of options, Venice is divided into six sestieri (neighborhoods), which each offer a unique experience/atmosphere.
- San Marco is arguably the heart of Venice, home to iconic landmarks like St. Mark’s Square, St. Mark’s Basilica, and the Doge’s Palace. Staying here puts you right in the midst of the bustling tourist hub, with plenty of restaurants, shops, and historical sites. However, it’s loud, crowded, and very pricey.
- On the opposite end of the spectrum, Dorsoduro is known for its artistic and bohemian vibe. Home to the Accademia Gallery and the Peggy Guggenheim Collection, this is a great choice for art enthusiasts and those on the more “hipster” side of things.
- As mentioned, we think Cannaregio is a fantastic place to stay. If you prefer a more authentic Venetian experience, Cannaregio feels more residential while still being really central. The Jewish Ghetto is also located here.
- Castello comprises the area around the famous Rialto Bridge, but you can also find quiet squares and traditional restaurants tucked away from the main tourist paths. However, this is also a pricey place to stay.
- Nearby San Polo is also near the Rialto Bridge and the Grand Canal. It’s a lively area with many shops and restaurants, making it convenient for exploring the city, but also on the “loud and expensive” side of things.
- Santa Croce is relatively less crowded and more budget-friendly compared to areas like San Marco, but located further out.
Regardless of the neighborhood you choose, booking accommodation well in advance is critical if you’re traveling, and this advice applies pretty much year-round. The owner of the B&B we stayed at told us she was already fully booked in November, which used to be her least-busy month.
Recommended Reading
The Perfect Weekend in Venice
As early in the morning as you can:
- Explore St. Mark’s Square (Piazza San Marco): Start your day early by visiting this iconic square, which is often considered the “heart” of Venice. Marvel at St. Mark’s Basilica, with its stunning Byzantine architecture, and take in the beauty of the Campanile (bell tower) and the Clock Tower.
- Check out the nearby Doge’s Palace (Palazzo Ducale) adjacent to the basilica, a masterpiece of Venetian Gothic architecture with lovely “millennial pink” hues. It’s super recommended to take a guided tour inside to learn about the history and the former seat of power in the Venetian Republic.
- Next, don’t miss the iconic Bridge of Sighs (Ponte dei Sospiri) nearby– legend has it that prisoners would sigh at their final view of beautiful Venice from this bridge before being taken down to their cells, as the bridge connects the New Prison (Prigione Nuovo) to the interrogation rooms in the Doge’s Palace. Lord Byron, one of our favorite Italophiles, is said to have coined this.
- Stroll or enjoy a vaporetto ride along the Grand Canal. Don’t miss the Basilica di Santa Maria della Salute, a beautiful Baroque church at its entrance.
- Head to the Rialto Bridge, one of the most famous bridges in Venice, and enjoy the bustling Rialto Market nearby.
After breakfast, take a boat trip to the nearby islands of Murano and Burano:
Murano is renowned for its centuries-old tradition of glassmaking. Known as the “Island of Glass,” there are several cool activities to check out related to the craft. Many shops have glass-blowing demonstrations, or you can visit the Museo del Vetro (Glass Museum) or markets to shop for hand-made pieces if you’re so inclined. While here, don’t miss the 12th-century Basilica of Santa Maria e San Donato and taking a stroll along the cute canals. If you have time, check out Giardino Mazzoni, a beautiful garden on the island with serene green spaces.
Burano is known for its colorful houses and lace-making craft. While there, take your time exploring the adorable colorful houses, and don’t miss the Church of San Martino. Tip: all the houses on the island are gorgeous– we saw so many people just on the main street, and you’re really missing out if you don’t explore a little further. If you’re interested in the tradition of lace-making, check out the Burano Lace School and Museo del Merletto (Lace Museum). Lastly, if you have time, consider visiting the neighboring island of Mazzorbo, known for its vineyards and the Venissa wine resort. It’s connected to Burano by a footbridge.
We really recommend visiting both. Murano is really close by, which makes it a no-brainer, but Burano is absolutely dreamy.
If you absolutely must choose one, we recommend Burano. We were absolutely enchanted by its colorful houses and more laid-back vibe. Murano, on the other hand, felt very touristy.
In the afternoon, enjoy wandering away from the main tourist areas and get lost for a bit in the labyrinth of narrow streets and canals.
This is where you’ll discover the authentic and much quieter side of Venice. We strongly recommend avoiding the areas around the Rialto Bridge and St. Mark’s after around 10 in the morning, as they are so mobbed you can’t even walk through.
We spent hours just moseying around the canals, admiring the gondoliers, the beautiful facades, and the cooler corners away from the sun. You’ll probably want to photograph each and every bridge and intersection, and the people-watching is unparalleled.
Indulge in a gelato or an aperol spritz (or both), or consider trying a Hugo– a South Tyrolean cocktail made of elderflower liqueur, prosecco, lime, and fresh mint leaves. We were definitely hooked after this trip!
While we weren’t able to do this on this visit, we’ve heard great things about Lido di Venezia. If you have the time, Lido is a nearby island known for its sandy beaches and the annual Venice Film Festival, and it looks absolutely lovely. If you have the vaporetto day pass, you can visit Lido with it as well.
A note on gondola rides: We didn’t spring for this, as 80€ per 35 minutes (the rate set by the city) felt extraordinarily expensive to us and we’d been having such a nice time riding the vaporetto around. However, we don’t want to knock the experience for those who truly want to do it– it’s undeniably charming, and the skill with which the gondoliers navigate the narrow spaces is mesmerizing.
If you do choose to go for it, a tip: while the rate is set, it’s important to tell your gondolier where you want to be dropped off and that you want it to be exactly 35 minutes. We heard quite a few horror stories of gondoliers taking the long way and the ride ending up costing much, much more.
We hope you enjoyed this weekend guide to Venice, and that it’ll be helpful particularly for those of you who don’t fancy a tourist-trap weekend.
For more Italy content, you can check out our full Dolomites itinerary and Dolomites hike itinerary, or our guides to other places like Rome, Milan, Taormina, and Lake Como. Feel free to click on either of the photos below to save this guide for later on Pinterest!
