Helsinki, the capital city of Finland, is a city that exceeds every expectation. We went into the trip not knowing quite what to expect and ended up tempted to move there! (Don’t worry, the winters are a bit too intense for us…)
Those of you who have been with us for a while know that we like to escape gray and gloomy Amsterdam each February for a bit of a winter break. In the past we’ve discovered places like Athens, the Cyclades, Malta, Sicily, and Málaga and Córdoba, and after a few years spent chasing sunny locales, this year we decided to opt for something totally different and go north. While the sun was still very much there, the days were short, sweet, and VERY cold. That didn’t stop us from making the absolute most of it, and we absolutely adored the city.
We found Helsinki to be ultra-walkable, friendly, and easy to explore, and we enjoyed staying here because it’s so easy to continue up to Lapland via train. We marveled at the architecture, pristinely plowed roads, and lack of ice, and while it was definitely the coldest place we’ve ever been, there were plenty of opportunities to warm up in cozy cafés, saunas, and the majestic Oodi Library (but more on that later.)
If you have the opportunity to visit Helsinki in any season, don’t hesitate. In this guide, we’ll walk you through an ideal winter weekend itinerary, packing list, and our sauna roundup.
Helsinki was founded in 1550 by Swedish King Gustav Vasa as a trading post to compete with the Hanseatic League’s influence in the Baltic. The original settlement was located at the mouth of the Vantaa River, but it struggled due to harsh conditions and competition from other ports. Given how cold it was in late January, we can absolutely see why this is the case.
In 1640, Helsinki was moved to its current location on the Helsinki Peninsula, where it began to grow as a small but strategic coastal town. The name Helsinki (or Helsingfors in Swedish) comes from the Swedish word helsing, meaning “neck” or “strait,” referring to the narrow waterway that surrounds the city, which will be a feature of your visit as you explore.
Helsinki remained a modest town until the 18th century, when Sweden began fortifying the city to defend against Russian expansion. The construction of the Suomenlinna Fortress (a UNESCO World Heritage site and must see, more on this later!) in 1748 boosted Helsinki’s importance as a military stronghold. However, the city was still overshadowed by Turku, Finland’s medieval capital.
Everything changed in 1809, when Finland was ceded to Russia after the Finnish War. Tsar Alexander I decided to make Helsinki the new capital of the Grand Duchy of Finland in 1812, replacing Turku. The move was strategic: Helsinki’s location made it easier to control and defend. Under Russian rule, Helsinki was rebuilt in neoclassical style by German architect Carl Ludvig Engel, who designed landmarks like Senate Square, Helsinki Cathedral, and the University of Helsinki. The city’s layout still reflects Engel’s vision today, and if it looks vaguely Russian to you… you’re not wrong.
Helsinki flourished as a cultural and administrative hub, but tensions with Russia grew in the late 19th century due to Nicholas II’s “Russification” policies– prior to this, Finland had largely been left alone to self-govern, and Russian rule was more or less accepted by Finns due to this. When the attempts at Russification began, Helsinki became a hub for Finnish nationalism, leading up to Finland declaring independence from Russia on December 6, 1917. On that day, Helsinki became the capital of the new republic. The city played a central role in the Finnish Civil War (1918), which pitted socialist “Reds” against conservative “Whites.” Helsinki was a Red stronghold until the Whites, backed by German forces, took the city in April 1918.
In the 20th century, Helsinki grew rapidly, becoming a modern, functional city with a strong focus on urban planning, education, and design. The 1952 Summer Olympics put Helsinki on the global map, and the city expanded with new districts like Tapiola (a garden city) and Espoo, blending nature with urban living.
This is largely still the case today, as Helsinki continues to be known for its sustainability, design, and high quality of life. And like anywhere else in Finland… sauna culture!
2 Days in Helsinki
Day 1
We kicked off the day with a free walking tour (10:30 AM –1 PM) covering Helsinki’s highlights: we started in Senate Square, visited the iconic Helsinki Cathedral and the University of Helsinki, then made our way over to Market Square, took in views of the Gulf of Finland, Suomenlinna Fortress, and Uspenski Cathedral, then worked our way down the Esplanade towards the Design District, Central Train Station, and the Modern District, culminating at the absolutely mind-boggling Oodi Library, where the tour ended.
We really can’t recommend this tour enough. Matti, the guide, was fantastic! We learned so much from him and his anecdotes, fun facts, and tips were among the best we’ve heard from this type of tour. A typical “tip tour”, you just tip whatever you think is fair at the end of the tour, and the tour itself is free. It’s recommended to tip between 20-30€ per person. You can book Matti’s tour here (not sponsored.)
On Matti’s advice, we spend some time in Oodi Library after the tour ended–partially to thaw a bit, as the temperature had gotten down past -20! We really can’t overstate what a marvel this place is.
Oodi was designed by ALA Architects and is a masterpiece of modern Finnish design. The building is famous for its curved wooden façade and giant glass walls. Inside, the library spans three floors (be sure to check out all 3!):
- Ground Floor: A cavernous public space with a café, restaurant, and event areas. The restaurant here has an all-you-can-eat salmon soup buffet with Finnish rye bread and butter for 13€ that is EXACTLY what you need on a cold day.
- Second Floor: This floor has everything you could possibly think of and then some. You can borrow books, movies, musical instruments, and games (including board games and video games); use high-tech tools like 3D printers, screen printers, laser cutters, sewing machines, and recording studios in the “Makerspace” area; hang out with friends and cook in a full-sized industrial kitchen; and more.
- Third Floor: A quiet, serene space with a reading room, meeting rooms, books, and a rooftop terrace that overlooks Helsinki’s skyline. It’s a bookworm’s dream and we could’ve easily spent all day here.
After spending as much time as you’d like in Oodi, it’s about a 10-minute walk to the Temppeliaukio Church, or Rock Church. It costs 5€ to enter and its a very unique place– a church built directly into solid rock, famous for its architectural design but also for its acoustics.
For dinner, check out the Hakaniemi Market Hall, a great place to try Finnish dishes like salmon soup if you didn’t try it at Oodi Library. Pro tip: Try the Karelian pies (karjalanpiirakka rice pies) with egg butter.
Recommended Reading
Day 2
We started the day with the most Finnish of Finnish experiences– a public sauna! This is truly a treat and an absolute must-do in Finland, preferably every day if you can. While our hotel had sauna offerings in the evenings, we were keen to try the public sauna as well.
A bit of history… Saunas have been part of Finnish life for thousands of years, and today there are more saunas than cars in the country. Originally, they were used for bathing, healing, and even giving birth. Today, they’re a place to unwind, socialize, and reflect, either alone or with your friends or family. Saunas also have tons of health benefits– they are believed to improve circulation, reduce stress, and even boost immunity, and the heat and steam help relax your muscles and warm you up from the cold outside.
Matti, our tour guide, told us that a typical first date in Helsinki is to Oodi Library, and if you make it to a 2nd date, it’s at a sauna– truly, the cultural impact cannot be understated.
We did a lot of research on Helsinki’s saunas prior to arriving, and have some great tips for you.
If you’ve never been to a sauna before, there are definitely a few things to keep in mind:
- Shower first! It’s really important to rinse off prior to entering the steam rooms, and bring a towel or seat cover to sit on. Public saunas will have seat covers available.
- Clothing optional (ish): In private or gender-segregated saunas, nudity is common, but you can also absolutely wear a swimsuit if you prefer. Unlike other parts of Europe, we didn’t encounter that nudity was mandatory anywhere. In public or mixed-gender saunas, we noticed that swimsuits were often mandatory, so be sure to have a swimsuit with you just in case.
- Quiet time (ish): Loud talking is rare. Finns often enjoy the sauna in quiet contemplation, though you can absolutely chat with your companions while you’re there. Also different to other parts of Europe, silence isn’t mandatory either.
- After a sauna round, cool off outside or with a shower before going back in. We really recommend “taking the plunge” into a cold pool! Plunging into the Baltic Sea with chunks of ice floating around us was really a bucket list experience and great bragging rights for friends back home.
- We really recommend at least attempting to book ahead, as the saunas are really popular and walk-ins aren’t always possible. Unfortunately, everything was all booked up when we tried (±2 weeks before our visit!) so the 2nd choice is to…
- Arrive at opening time to beat the crowds. This is what we did and it worked perfectly, but if you want to avoid all stress with your visit, definitely book ahead for a weekday.
If you’re trying to decide which sauna in Helsinki to check out, here are 3 options we considered, with our decision-making process highlighted.
- Allas Sea Pool – what we chose!
- Location: Near Market Square
- Price: 19€ on weekdays, 24€ on weekends for 2 hours
- Pros: Urban sauna and swimming experience right in the city center– the location is truly unbeatable. Fantastic changing rooms with lockers linked to your wristband, multiple saunas to choose from, and the ability to cold plunge into a Baltic Sea pool. This is sort of the “best of both worlds”, as the sea itself was too choppy (dangerous!) for a plunge, but you can still plunge into a sea pool with a view of the sea only a few feet away.
- Cons: Gets really crowded, and advanced booking isn’t possible for weekends. To mitigate this, arrive right when they open!
- Features:
- 3 mixed saunas, 1 women-only, and 1 men-only
- 2 outdoor pools (one saltwater at sea temperature, one freshwater heated to 27 C) – the coolest experience to cold plunge into a sea pool with blocks of ice floating!
- Cafe and rooftop terrace with views of the city
- Tips:
- Bring your own towel to avoid having to rent one (9€)
- Arrive right when they open, as it gets quite crowded
- The walk from the indoor sauna to the pools and outdoor saunas is along a frozen walkway, outdoors. Don’t be like us and bring some sort of flipflop or slipper, as the only negative part of the experience for us was having to walk barefoot along the frozen walkway.
- Location: Hernesaari
- Price: 28€ for 2 hours, includes towel
- Pros: Löyly is Helsinki’s most famous public sauna, combining modern design with traditional Finnish sauna culture. The wood-burning saunas and seaside location make it very popular, and the building is absolutely gorgeous.
- Cons: Very, very popular with tourists and very crowded. We read a lot of reviews about packed saunas and poor sauna etiquette, influencers taking selfies inside the saunas, people leaving doors open and coming in and out (letting the hot air out), etc. Ultimately, we decided against visiting for this reason.
- Features: Two wood-heated saunas, a smoke sauna (on weekends), and a terrace with views of the Baltic Sea. You can also take a dip in the sea year-round and enjoy their very famous restaurant– apparently a good place to try salmon soup.
- Location: Harju
- Price: 16€ for 2 hours, make sure to bring your own towels and soap
- Pros: Kotiharjun Sauna is one of Helsinki’s last traditional wood-fired public saunas, offering an authentic, no-frills experience for quite a bit cheaper than other options. It’s been operating since 1928 and is a beloved local spot and much more traditional than somewhere like Löyly.
- Features: A classic Finnish sauna with a wood-burning stove, a washing room, and a cozy atmosphere. The sauna is gender-segregated and clothing-optional. Since we (an M/F couple) wanted to enjoy a sauna together, we opted against this one.
After showers and warm beverages, we braved a short and chilly ferry ride to Suomenlinna Fortress, a UNESCO-listed sea fortress spread across six islands. Built in the 18th century, it’s one of the world’s largest maritime fortresses and a fascinating mix of military history and natural beauty. We absolutely marveled at how silent it was there, truly a wonderful place to take a break from city life and enjoy a lovely (though very chilly!) nature walk.
The ferry is part of the public transit system, and you can buy a ticket at the depot. The ferry is quite an experience in and of itself, because the boat is an icebreaker. It’s really cool to see how it cleaves through the icy sea water so effortlessly! The Fortress itself is free to visit. In the winter, there are a few cafés and grocery stores open, but in summer there are a lot of restaurants and fun outdoor activities as well. Interestingly, the Fortress is considered one of Helsinki’s neighborhoods– 800 people live here.
In the afternoon, there were a few museums to choose from while we waited for our late-night train departure. We chose the Helsinki City Museum, it’s free and focuses on the city’s evolution through interactive exhibits. Next time we’d love to check out the National Museum of Finland, which offers a deep dive into the country’s history, from Viking-era artifacts to modern Finnish design.
Afterwards, we were ready for a snack and hot drink (hot drinks being a theme of this winter trip!), so on the recommendation of Matti once again, we checked out one of Finland’s most popular cafes, Fazer.
Founded in 1891 by Karl Fazer, a Swiss-Finnish confectioner, Fazer is known for their chocolate, confectionary, and bakery products. Fazer’s most famous chocolate bar is the Fazer Blue (Fazerin Sininen), and was included in soldiers’ rations during World War II, earning it the nickname “the chocolate of heroes.”
Fazer products are available in supermarkets, kiosks, and convenience stores across Finland, which is where we sampled a few of their chocolate bars (Geisha and Jaffa being our favorites!), opting instead for hot chocolate and a fresh korvapuusti (cinnamon roll) at the cafe.
Late that night we boarded the overnight VR train to Rovaniemi. While perhaps for some people sleeping on a train is a normal occurrence, we were insanely excited for our first-ever overnight train ride and had been looking forward to it for ages. The train, nicknamed the Santa Claus Express, has been running since the 1970s and offers a cozy way to travel north while saving on a night’s accommodation. The train takes about 12 hours and you get your own little sleeping berth with bunk beds, a toilet, and a small shower.
We were surprised about how economical the tickets were, only costing about 40€ per person since we booked very far in advance. We were also very surprised at how comfortable the sleeper train was. You’re allowed to bring your own food, or you can check out the restaurant car for hot meals. We enjoyed a hot coffee in the morning before arriving in Rovaniemi, where you arrive near the city center at the train station.
If you want to know more about Rovaniemi and Finnish Lapland, you can check out our post on the topic here.
Packing List
At risk of sounding annoying, Finland is COLD in the winter. If you don’t plan accordingly clothing-wise, you will be absolutely miserable. BUT, with the proper essentials, you’ll have an absolute blast– so never fear!
We did a LOT of planning about what to wear and what to pack. Traveling carry-on only, we didn’t have the luxury of bringing every cold weather item we own, and even if you are allowed a checked bag, choose wisely– tramping about in the snow with a roller suitcase is not particularly fun and we saw quite a few people struggling!
Helsinki allegedly has a milder coastal climate than further north, but “mild” is relative. Coastal winds can make it feel colder than the thermometer suggests, and snow is common from December to March. For what it’s worth, we were way colder in Helsinki than in Lapland, which felt more “dry.”
- December: -4°C / 25°F to 1°C / 34°F
- January:-6°C / 21°F to -1°C / 30°F
- February: -7°C / 19°F to -2°C / 28°F
- March: -5°C / 23°F to 2°C / 36°F
We’ll go into much more detail about packing for Lapland in our dedicated Lapland post, but for Helsinki the following worked really well for us:
- 100% wool sweater
- Thermal base layer like UNIQLO “Warmest” option (top and bottom)
- Jeans
- Down or down alternative insulated coat
- Waterproof sneakers or snow boots
- 100% wool scarf
- Liner gloves with insulated puffy mittens on top
- 100% wool beanie
We found that waterproof sneakers (like the Gore-Tex line from Nike or Allbirds Wool Runners) felt nicest for long city exploration days, and that layering a wool sweater with a base layer underneath our coats kept us sufficiently cozy. However, snow boots are also a smart call here if your feet tend to get cold.
A note re: fabrics, in general, avoid cotton or other sweat-wicking materials that retain moisture– merino wool or synthetic fabrics are your best bet. The base layers against your skin will keep you warmest, and you want to avoid anything getting damp or letting cold air in. This is why everything above says 100% wool– it’s not to make ourselves seem fancy! We’ve found our favorite wool sweaters in charity or vintage shops.
