Winter in Finland isn’t just a season—it’s an experience! After a few years spent chasing sunny winter break locations in places like Athens, the Cyclades, Malta, Sicily, and Málaga and Córdoba, this year we decided to opt for something totally different and go north.
WAY north– like, almost to the end of the continent! The Nordics aren’t really a region we’ve explored in depth, though it’s always been very high on our radar for all the gorgeous nature offerings. We adored our winter visit to Norway and a few lovely weekends spent in Stockholm, and were eager to cross a few more destinations off the list. With all this in mind, we opted for Finland.
Finland in winter is an absolute dream! We truly cannot recommend it enough– and urge you to not let the Arctic temperatures put you off. We absolutely adored our visit there and are already planning another ski trip in Lapland for next year.
Over the course of a week, we split our time between capital city Helsinki (love at first sight!) and the Lapland region, checking out Rovaniemi and Saariselkä (our favorite destination of the trip). We did this visit car-free, relying on public transit and internal flights and trains, and we had an absolutely marvelous time. We didn’t feel like we needed a car at any point, and were relieved not to have to drive in such snowy conditions, though the roads are absolutely flawless and professionally plowed multiple times a day.
From historic churches, saunas, and bustling market halls in Helsinki to all the outdoor activities (seriously, we did dogsledding, snowshoeing, skiing, and a botched attempt at Northern Lights trekking– but more on that later!) here’s how we made the most of our Finnish winter escape— and how you can, too!
We hope this guide helps you plan your iconic trip, it’s been one of our favorite trips so far.
While our packing list is typically further down in our posts, we’re mentioning it here first because it’s much more important to have proper clothing in Finland in winter than for other trips. At risk of sounding annoying, Finland is COLD in the winter. If you don’t plan accordingly for this, you will be absolutely miserable.
We did a LOT of planning about what to wear and what to pack. Traveling carry-on only, we didn’t have the luxury of bringing every cold weather item we own, and even if you are allowed a checked bag, choose wisely– tramping about in the snow with a roller suitcase is not particularly fun and we saw quite a few people struggling!
Helsinki allegedly has a milder coastal climate than Lapland, but “mild” is relative. Coastal winds can make it feel colder than the thermometer suggests, and snow is common from December to March. For what it’s worth, we were way colder in Helsinki than in Lapland, which feels more “dry.”
- December: -4°C / 25°F to 1°C / 34°F
- January:-6°C / 21°F to -1°C / 30°F
- February: -7°C / 19°F to -2°C / 28°F
- March: -5°C / 23°F to 2°C / 36°F
Lapland’s winters are much colder, with subzero temperatures from November through April. Rovaniemi and Saariselkä are among the coldest spots in Finland, with temperatures often dropping below -20°C (-4°F) at night, especially in January and February. Snow cover is guaranteed from December to April (and sometimes into May), making it ideal for winter sports, but necessary to pack proper insulated layers.
- December: -13°C / 9°F to -7°C / 19°F
- January: -17°C / 1°F to -10°C / 14°F
- February: -18°C / 0°F to -9°C / 16°F
- March: -12°C / 10°F to -4°C / 25°F
However, don’t fear! You don’t have to put on 3000 layers and look like the Abominable Snowman. Smart layering is the way to go. We relied heavily on base layers (like HeatTech from UNIQLO or Capilene Thermal from Patagonia), and then went from there. In general, avoid cotton or other sweat-wicking materials that retain moisture– merino wool or synthetic fabrics are your best bet. The base layers against your skin will keep you warmest, and you want to avoid anything getting damp or letting cold air in.
In general, here’s what your outfit should look like:
- Base layer (top + bottom)
- Fleece layer
- (If doing stationary activity like a Northern Lights tour) Puffer layer like Patagonia Nano Puff
- Snow pants or ski pants
- Ski or snow socks
- Snow jacket, insulated and preferably 20K waterproof
- Gaiter, scarf, balaclava, hat (depending on your preference + activity planned)
- Liner gloves + snow gloves or mittens
The key here is that (maybe counterintuitively) you actually don’t want to wear too many clothes. This can cause you to overheat, which can actually have pretty adverse effects, and it’s just uncomfortable! If you’re doing activities like skiing, stick to the base layer + fleece layer + top layer combo. If you’ll be standing still or outdoors, maybe bring a puffer layer just in case.
The last key tip is to make sure your base layers and socks are dry. If they get damp, change them as soon as possible.
Now that we’ve gone on for quite a while about clothes, without further ado, here is the actual packing list that we promised:
Helsinki:
- 100% wool sweaters
- Base layer (top and bottom)
- Jeans
- Insulated down coat
- Waterproof sneakers
- 100% wool scarf
- Liner gloves with insulated mittens
We found that waterproof sneakers (like the Gore-Tex line from Nike or Allbirds Wool Runners) felt nicest for long city exploration days, and that layering a wool sweater with a base layer kept us sufficiently cozy. However, snow boots are also a smart call here if your feet tend to get cold.
Lapland:
- Ski goggles
- Ski pants/bib + jacket
- Snow boots
- Patagonia Better Sweater fleece + Nano-Puff jacket
- Thermal base layers (2-3 sets)
- Hats, gaiters, ski gloves, liner gloves, ski socks
- Hand warmers
Miscellaneous:
- Swimsuits and shower shoes for saunas
- Portable charger (phones die quicker in cold temperatures)
- Refillable water bottle
- Small backpack for day trips, skiing
- Nuts and snacks for outdoor activities
- Ziploc bags, travel cutlery for on-the-go lunches
- Toiletries of choice, be sure to bring lots of face/body lotion, Vaseline, and lip balm, as the cold will dry you out quicker – we really recommend Aquaphor!
Getting There
Finland’s main international gateway is Helsinki Airport (HEL), located in Vantaa, about 20 kilometers north of Helsinki city center. Helsinki Airport is modern, efficient, and well-connected, with a single main terminal that’s easy to navigate. It’s the hub for Finnair, Finland’s national carrier, and offers direct flights to major cities across Europe, Asia, and North America. We were lucky to find a direct flight from Amsterdam to Helsinki with KLM, which took about 3 hours. From the airport to the city center, you can take the I or P trains, which take about 30 minutes and come every 10-15 minutes.
To get between Helsinki and Lapland, you have a few options. Internal flights are common and inexpensive, taking 1-2 hours. We opted to take the VR train, which was an absolutely fabulous experience. It departs from Helsinki’s central train station at 11PM and arrives in Rovaniemi at around 11AM the next morning. If you book in advance like we did, you can reserve a sleeper cabin for 2 with wifi, bunk beds, toilet, and small shower for as low as 40-50€. There’s a restaurant car as well, and the vistas of the wilderness out the window are absolutely swoon-worthy.
For Lapland, Rovaniemi Airport (RVN) is the primary gateway. It’s a small but well-organized airport, located just 10 kilometers north of Rovaniemi city center. Rovaniemi Airport is especially busy during the winter season, with direct flights from Helsinki and other European cities. If you’re heading further north, Ivalo Airport (IVL) and Kittilä Airport (KTT) are also options, serving destinations like Saariselkä and Levi. Bus 8 runs between Rovaniemi Airport and the city center, taking about 20 minutes. Tickets cost 5€ and can be bought on the bus. Both Ivalo and Kittilä airports also offer shuttle services to nearby resorts and towns. For example, Ivalo Airport has shuttles to Saariselkä (about 30 minutes away), and Kittilä Airport has shuttles to Levi (about 20 minutes away).
We found both Helsinki and Lapland incredibly easy to navigate without a car.
Recommended Reading
The Perfect Winter Week in Finland
And now… the itinerary!
Day 0: Arrival
Upon landing in Helsinki, we took the P train (as mentioned, the I train is also an option) from the airport to the city center. You can buy tickets in the airport terminal for 4,50€ and it takes about 30 minutes to get into the city center.
Because we were departing a few days later for Rovaniemi via overnight train, we decided to stay closer to the Helsinki train station at the Scandic Hakaniemi. We had a great experience here (not sponsored), it’s very centrally located and we were able to store our luggage upon arrival and departure in a secure luggage room.
Day 1: Helsinki
You can check out our weekend in Helsinki blog for more detailed Helsinki recommendations, but happy to also share the good tips here!
We kicked off the day with a free walking tour (10:30 AM –1 PM) covering Helsinki’s highlights: we started in Senate Square, visited the iconic Helsinki Cathedral and the University of Helsinki, then made our way over to Market Square, took in views of the Gulf of Finland, Suomenlinna Fortress, and Uspenski Cathedral, then worked our way down the Esplanade towards the Design District, Central Train Station, and the Modern District, culminating at the absolutely mind-boggling Oodi Library, where the tour ended.
We really can’t recommend this tour enough. Matti, the guide, was fantastic! We learned so much from him and his anecdotes, fun facts, and tips were among the best we’ve heard from this type of tour. A typical “tip tour”, you just tip whatever you think is fair at the end of the tour, and the tour itself is free. It’s recommended to tip between 20-30€ per person. You can book Matti’s tour here (not sponsored.)
On Matti’s advice, we spend some time in Oodi Library after the tour ended–partially to thaw a bit, as the temperature had gotten down past -20! We really can’t overstate what a marvel this place is.
Oodi was designed by ALA Architects and is a masterpiece of modern Finnish design. The building is famous for its curved wooden façade and giant glass walls. Inside, the library spans three floors (be sure to check out all 3!):
- Ground Floor: A cavernous public space with a café, restaurant, and event areas. The restaurant here has an all-you-can-eat salmon soup buffet with Finnish rye bread and butter for 13€ that is EXACTLY what you need on a cold day.
- Second Floor: This floor has everything you could possibly think of and then some. You can borrow books, movies, musical instruments, and games (including board games and video games); use high-tech tools like 3D printers, screen printers, laser cutters, sewing machines, and recording studios in the “Makerspace” area; hang out with friends and cook in a full-sized industrial kitchen; and more.
- Third Floor: A quiet, serene space with a reading room, meeting rooms, books, and a rooftop terrace that overlooks Helsinki’s skyline. It’s a bookworm’s dream and we could’ve easily spent all day here.
After spending as much time as you’d like in Oodi, it’s about a 10-minute walk to the Temppeliaukio Church, or Rock Church. It costs 5€ to enter and its a very unique place– a church built directly into solid rock, famous for its architectural design but also for its acoustics.
For dinner, check out the Hakaniemi Market Hall, a great place to try Finnish dishes like salmon soup if you didn’t try it at Oodi Library. Pro tip: Try the Karelian pies (karjalanpiirakka rice pies) with egg butter.
Day 2: Helsinki
We started the day with the most Finnish of Finnish experiences– a public sauna! This is truly a treat and an absolute must-do in Finland, preferably every day if you can. While our hotel had sauna offerings in the evenings, we were keen to try the public sauna as well.
A bit of history… Saunas have been part of Finnish life for thousands of years, and today there are more saunas than cars in the country. Originally, they were used for bathing, healing, and even giving birth. Today, they’re a place to unwind, socialize, and reflect, either alone or with your friends or family. Saunas also have tons of health benefits– they are believed to improve circulation, reduce stress, and even boost immunity, and the heat and steam help relax your muscles and warm you up from the cold outside.
Matti, our tour guide, told us that a typical first date in Helsinki is to Oodi Library, and if you make it to a 2nd date, it’s at a sauna– truly, the cultural impact cannot be understated.
We did a lot of research on Helsinki’s saunas prior to arriving, and have some great tips for you.
If you’ve never been to a sauna before, there are definitely a few things to keep in mind:
- Shower first! It’s really important to rinse off prior to entering the steam rooms, and bring a towel or seat cover to sit on. Public saunas will have seat covers available.
- Clothing optional (ish): In private or gender-segregated saunas, nudity is common, but you can also absolutely wear a swimsuit if you prefer. Unlike other parts of Europe, we didn’t encounter that nudity was mandatory anywhere. In public or mixed-gender saunas, we noticed that swimsuits were often mandatory, so be sure to have a swimsuit with you just in case.
- Quiet time (ish): Loud talking is rare. Finns often enjoy the sauna in quiet contemplation, though you can absolutely chat with your companions while you’re there. Also different to other parts of Europe, silence isn’t mandatory either.
- After a sauna round, cool off outside or with a shower before going back in. We really recommend “taking the plunge” into a cold pool! Plunging into the Baltic Sea with chunks of ice floating around us was really a bucket list experience and great bragging rights for friends back home.
- We really recommend at least attempting to book ahead, as the saunas are really popular and walk-ins aren’t always possible. Unfortunately, everything was all booked up when we tried (±2 weeks before our visit!) so the 2nd choice is to…
- Arrive at opening time to beat the crowds. This is what we did and it worked perfectly, but if you want to avoid all stress with your visit, definitely book ahead for a weekday.
If you’re trying to decide which sauna in Helsinki to check out, here are 3 options we considered, with our decision-making process highlighted.
- Allas Sea Pool – what we chose! See pictures immediately above.
- Location: Near Market Square
- Price: 19€ on weekdays, 24€ on weekends for 2 hours
- Pros: Urban sauna and swimming experience right in the city center– the location is truly unbeatable. Fantastic changing rooms with lockers linked to your wristband, multiple saunas to choose from, and the ability to cold plunge into a Baltic Sea pool. This is sort of the “best of both worlds”, as the sea itself was too choppy (dangerous!) for a plunge, but you can still plunge into a sea pool with a view of the sea only a few feet away.
- Cons: Gets really crowded, and advanced booking isn’t possible for weekends. To mitigate this, arrive right when they open!
- Features:
- 3 mixed saunas, 1 women-only, and 1 men-only
- 2 outdoor pools (one saltwater at sea temperature, one freshwater heated to 27 C) – the coolest experience to cold plunge into a sea pool with blocks of ice floating!
- Cafe and rooftop terrace with views of the city
- Tips:
- Bring your own towel to avoid having to rent one (9€)
- Arrive right when they open, as it gets quite crowded
- The walk from the indoor sauna to the pools and outdoor saunas is along a frozen walkway, outdoors. Don’t be like us and bring some sort of flipflop or slipper, as the only negative part of the experience for us was having to walk barefoot along the frozen walkway.
- Location: Hernesaari
- Price: 28€ for 2 hours, includes towel
- Pros: Löyly is Helsinki’s most famous public sauna, combining modern design with traditional Finnish sauna culture. The wood-burning saunas and seaside location make it very popular, and the building is absolutely gorgeous.
- Cons: Very, very popular with tourists and very crowded. We read a lot of reviews about packed saunas and poor sauna etiquette, influencers taking selfies inside the saunas, people leaving doors open and coming in and out (letting the hot air out), etc. Ultimately, we decided against visiting for this reason.
- Features: Two wood-heated saunas, a smoke sauna (on weekends), and a terrace with views of the Baltic Sea. You can also take a dip in the sea year-round and enjoy their very famous restaurant– apparently a good place to try salmon soup.
- Location: Harju
- Price: 16€ for 2 hours, make sure to bring your own towels and soap
- Pros: Kotiharjun Sauna is one of Helsinki’s last traditional wood-fired public saunas, offering an authentic, no-frills experience for quite a bit cheaper than other options. It’s been operating since 1928 and is a beloved local spot and much more traditional than somewhere like Löyly.
- Features: A classic Finnish sauna with a wood-burning stove, a washing room, and a cozy atmosphere. The sauna is gender-segregated and clothing-optional. Since we (an M/F couple) wanted to enjoy a sauna together, we opted against this one.
After showers and warm beverages, we braved a short and chilly ferry ride to Suomenlinna Fortress, a UNESCO-listed sea fortress spread across six islands. Built in the 18th century, it’s one of the world’s largest maritime fortresses and a fascinating mix of military history and natural beauty. We absolutely marveled at how silent it was there, truly a wonderful place to take a break from city life and enjoy a lovely (though very chilly!) nature walk.
The ferry is part of the public transit system, and you can buy a ticket at the depot. The ferry is quite an experience in and of itself, because the boat is an icebreaker. It’s really cool to see how it cleaves through the icy sea water so effortlessly! The Fortress itself is free to visit. In the winter, there are a few cafés and grocery stores open, but in summer there are a lot of restaurants and fun outdoor activities as well. Interestingly, the Fortress is considered one of Helsinki’s neighborhoods– 800 people live here.
In the afternoon, there were a few museums to choose from while we waited for our late-night train departure. We chose the Helsinki City Museum, it’s free and focuses on the city’s evolution through interactive exhibits. Next time we’d love to check out the National Museum of Finland, which offers a deep dive into the country’s history, from Viking-era artifacts to modern Finnish design.
Afterwards, we were ready for a snack and hot drink (hot drinks being a theme of this winter trip!), so on the recommendation of Matti once again, we checked out one of Finland’s most popular cafes, Fazer.
Founded in 1891 by Karl Fazer, a Swiss-Finnish confectioner, Fazer is known for their chocolate, confectionary, and bakery products. Fazer’s most famous chocolate bar is the Fazer Blue (Fazerin Sininen), and was included in soldiers’ rations during World War II, earning it the nickname “the chocolate of heroes.”
Fazer products are available in supermarkets, kiosks, and convenience stores across Finland, which is where we sampled a few of their chocolate bars (Geisha and Jaffa being our favorites!), opting instead for hot chocolate and a fresh korvapuusti (cinnamon roll) at the cafe.
Late that night we boarded the overnight VR train to Rovaniemi. While perhaps for some people sleeping on a train is a normal occurrence, we were insanely excited for our first-ever overnight train ride and had been looking forward to it for ages. The train, nicknamed the Santa Claus Express, has been running since the 1970s and offers a cozy way to travel north while saving on a night’s accommodation. The train takes about 12 hours and you get your own little sleeping berth with bunk beds, a toilet, and a small shower.
We were surprised about how economical the tickets were, only costing about 40€ per person since we booked very far in advance. We were also very surprised at how comfortable the sleeper train was. You’re allowed to bring your own food, or you can check out the restaurant car for hot meals. We enjoyed a hot coffee in the morning before arriving in Rovaniemi, where you arrive near the city center at the train station.
Day 3: Rovaniemi
We arrived in Rovaniemi close to lunchtime and headed to our Booking.com apartment accommodation. We found accommodation a bit challenging in Rovaniemi– there weren’t many options in our budget, despite starting our booking process many months in advance. While we would have loved to stay in one of those gorgeous igloo accommodations, they cost upwards of 700€/night, which was definitely out of our budget.
Rovaniemi is known worldwide as the official hometown of Santa Claus, which we found cute but definitely more than a bit cheesy. The town is definitely very touristy and quite pricey. While we enjoyed our visit, we don’t think it’s worth a repeat. Rovaniemi more struck our fancy because it’s also the gateway to Lapland’s wilderness, something we’d been eager to see for ages. We got our first taste of the wilderness right away with an afternoon reservation at Ounasvaara Resort for skiing.
Tegan is a new skier, and was very eager to try but also a bit anxious (trying new things in your 30’s can be scary!) Ounasvaara is a great spot for beginners, with gentle slopes and stunning views over the city. While Finland is very snowy and very cold, the mountains and slopes aren’t very high, which makes it very beginner-friendly.
We were really pleasantly surprised at the prices for lessons as well – a lift pass, gear rental, and a 90-minute private lesson cost only 120€, which was a no-brainer for a beginner. Alex explored the more advanced slopes while Tegan had her lesson on the bunny slope, and then there were plenty of options for us to check out together afterward.
After skiing adventures, we were more than ready for some cozy time “in” for the rest of the evening. We found that the K-Market (local supermarket chain) had absolutely delicious prepared meals, ranging from Korean chicken to sushi and lasagna, at very low prices, which was a lifesaver for us in terms of staying in our budget and not having to spend a lot of time cooking.
Day 4: Santa’s Village, Dog Sledding, and Northern Lights (attempt)
Santa Claus Village, located just 8 kilometers north of Rovaniemi, is one of the most famous Christmas-themed destinations in the world. Open year-round, the village is built on the Arctic Circle, marked by a white line that you can stand on for a cool photo. The village was officially established in the 1980s, but its roots trace back to the 1950s, when Rovaniemi was declared “the official hometown of Santa Claus.”
There’s a cute post office where you can send postcards from the North Pole, a display of letters to Santa from all over the world, some animal tourism (reindeer rides), and a chance to meet the man himself, for about 50€ (needless to say, we did not meet him.) You can take the “Santa Claus Express” bus (#8, the same one that goes to the airport) from Rovaniemi for 3.60€ and be there in about 20 minutes.
Overall, this was a cute way to spend an hour or two (and we were particularly keen on that Arctic Circle photo!) but we were overwhelmed by the tourists and disappointed in the commercialization of the place overall. You can walk around for free, but everything else is ludicrously expensive, and the souvenir ornaments, magnets, etc were astonishingly poor quality. There were absolutely no Finnish crafts, and each shop had the same junk at really high prices. Maybe this is a better destination for families, but we wouldn’t recommend a visit to Rovaniemi just for this.
In the afternoon, we booked a husky experience with Bearhill Husky (not sponsored). There are LOADS of dogsledding providers in Rovaniemi, and this was a bit of an overwhelming process. Here are a few tips:
- Trust your gut when it comes to animal tourism. We are really, really sensitive about this topic personally and really wanted to make sure that the company that we chose had healthy, happy, and well-loved animal companions. Bearhill has loads of positive reviews, a detailed FAQ page (including information about their breeding and care practices), and was the most-recommended option that kept popping up. “IRL” the dogs seemed very loved, and were very loving in return– while they’re certainly working dogs, they also were VERY into cuddles, pets, and kisses, both with the visitors and the mushers. The mushers also told us about their diet, took us on a tour of the kennels, and described their routines and care in detail. For example, the dogs can run up to 80km per day while bearing passengers, but at Bearhill they max them out at around 50km. We were intrigued to learn that they eat steak, specialized kibble, and all sorts of organic snacks.
- As a starting point, we looked at the Visit Rovaniemi page on Husky Sled Rides and Farm Visits. Here, you can narrow down by month and take a look at the different offerings and price points.
- We definitely had a bit of sticker shock! It’s a very, very expensive activity– the most expensive one we booked in Finland by far. We were glad to be able to filter out most of the more outrageous options.
- If (like us) you don’t have a car, be really careful where you book. Many of the cheaper options are located quite far outside Rovaniemi and do not include transfer. If you have a car, this is fantastic – you’ll have a lot more flexibility and save quite a bit of money. But if you don’t, Bearhill seemed the best option to us because the transfer was included.
- All providers will ask you for your age, height, and weight, as there are limits for the dogs. Some rides are specifically tailored for kids, and there are all sorts of durations, combination packages, and self-guided vs. officially guided.
- The age, height, and weight contribute to which sled you’re placed in. We were paired with another couple that had a similar build to us, as the sleds each have 4 people + the musher.
Bearhill has a few daily options depending on your group composition, budget, and other factors, and the best one for us was the “Campfire Tour.” While you don’t get to drive the dogs yourself on this option, you get to be out in the wilderness with the dogs for more time. Most of the self-guided treks were only for 5km, and this one was advertised for 15-20km, which made the decision for us– we were more interested in being with the dogs longer than whether or not we got to steer the sled.
We were very, very pleased with this decision– it was so cool to watch the musher work and to get to observe the surrounding wilderness and the dogs while zipping along. At the halfway mark, we had a snack and a hot beverage and got to snuggle with the dogs, who were all absolutely adorable. We were really surprised how eager they were to run! They were absolutely raring to go and so excited, it was truly a treat.
A few other things to note:
- A weird “review” we saw pop up a few times was people complaining about how the dogs looked– i.e., that they were expecting Siberian Huskies and got “mutts”. Important clarification here, we were told that dogsledding dogs in Finland are pretty much always Alaskan huskies (not Siberian.) Alaskan huskies are a mixed-breed designed for training, running and working, as they have the correct temperament, paw features, body type, and coat specifically for this purpose. Many of Bearhill’s dogs also compete in races, some even in the Iditarod! Also… for the record, we think it’s deeply weird to say that the dogs weren’t beautiful or weren’t cute or whatever, and to review negatively based on the fact that they’re Alaskan and not Siberian, but this is something a few people brought up. We found all the dogs absolutely adorable and so loving, and had a wonderful experience.
- Wear all your winter layers! (See above.) Bearhill also provides a jumpsuit to go on top of your clothes for extra warmth, as well as blankets, boots, and mittens. Since you’re stationary on the sled it gets quite chilly, and the person in the front seat will get quite a bit of windchill.
**Please note that we are a GetYourGuide affiliate, which means that we may earn a small commission if you choose to book activities via our widget.
After a bit of time thawing from the dogsledding, we wrapped up the day with a Northern Lights tour. After three (!) trips to Norway and Iceland where we didn’t see anything at all, we took things much more seriously this time. While Lapland is one of the best places in the world to see the Northern Lights, it is not a guarantee. Unfortunately, they’re not just waiting there for you, but rather a combination of a lot of different weather factors.
Since we’d tried a few times on our own with no success, this time we made the conscious decision to fork over the money for a guided tour. Similar to dogsledding, the Visit Rovaniemi website has a broad compilation of Northern Lights tours. Again, there is a huge range of price points and details (some include a professional photographer, some have a “guarantee” that allows you to go out as many nights as it takes in order to see them, some are private or paired with snowshoeing, etc.)
The way these work is that after departing from the pickup point, you drive up to a certain amount of kilometers (in the tour description) within a geographic range where the guide is reasonably sure given that day’s weather conditions that the borealis can be seen. Since the guides are supposed to be local experts, the idea is that they have a good chance of guessing where the lights can be seen given how the cloud cover or other factors are looking that day.
Unfortunately, we didn’t see anything. We won’t mention which tour operator we used because it was a very disappointing experience– none of the guides were Finns, we were combined with another giant tour group, and spent 3 hours freezing in a tent waiting for enough time had passed for the guides to take us back to Rovaniemi.
As mentioned in the packing list above, this is a good example of a time when you may want to bring an extra layer, like a puffer. The combination of darkness, cold, and a more stationary activity means that you may feel quite cold! If nothing else, it’s good to have that layer just in case. It’s also good to have a nice warm meal before departing, since you’ll just get some warm juice or similar on the tour.
Our biggest takeaway from the Northern Lights tour is to not book it in advance, but rather go door-to-door on a day with a clear forecast in Rovaniemi comparing available tours and asking whether the conditions are favorable. We had a lot of cloud cover during our trip, which meant there was no visible borealis, but we had to depart on the tour anyway. It was a total waste of time and money, and we got very, very cold for no reason, as it was very clear that no auroras would be seen prior to even departing. Better luck for us next time!
One last note– we would have loved to visit Arktikum, a museum about Lapland’s history and culture, but we just didn’t have enough time. It looked amazing, and we’re very bummed we didn’t have time to visit.
Day 5: Travel to Saariselkä
Today, we traveled way further north into Lapland, into what became far and away our favorite part of our trip. We departed Rovaniemi’s bus depot (note: different location to the train station!) at 8 AM and arrived in Saariselkä (Holiday Village stop) at around 11:30 AM. The bus trip was beautiful, with stunning vistas of the Lappish wilderness on a comfortable double-decker bus. We booked the tickets for about 40€ each ahead of time via Onnibus.
Saariselkä is a small but lively village nestled in the heart of Lapland’s wilderness, known for its ski resort (the northernmost in Europe!) and access to the stunning Urho Kekkonen National Park, the entrance of which is right in town. Saariselkä is located waaaaaay up north, very close to Russia and about 20 minutes from the city of Ivalo. This is the furthest north we’ve ever been by far, which was quite exciting!
After checking into our accommodations in one of the holiday villages (called Outapalaikka), we spent the afternoon exploring the village and stocking up on some groceries and other necessities at the nearby Kuukeli Center, which is sort of the town “hub” for several tours as well as a grocery store, cafe, and shop with luggage storage. We really recommend booking accommodations similar to ours. The apartment had a full kitchen, comfy lounge area, and its own sauna! Saariselkä is an amazing hub for outdoor activities, and the vibe is relaxed and welcoming, a stark contrast to Rovaniemi’s more touristy/consumerist vibe.
There are endless paths to wander, and every outdoor activity you can imagine. We cannot wait to come back here to check out cross-country skiing, and we had a blast wandering through the different walking paths and exploring. We also saw one of the most beautiful sunsets we’ve ever seen, which softened the blow of missing the Northern Lights!
Day 6: Skiing Saariselkä
As mentioned above, the Saariselkä Ski and Sport Resort is the northernmost ski resort in Europe and one of the most stunning places we’ve ever seen. The resort is known for its well-groomed slopes and stunning views of the surrounding mountains, and is fantastic for beginners. Similar to Ounasvaara, the slopes are pretty gentle and there’s so much snow that there is zero risk of icy patches or slush.
To get here from town, you pay 6€ to take the “Ski Bus”, which runs on a regular schedule and offers door-to-door service from the Holiday Village to the ski resort. The 6€ is a per-day fee, so you can go back and forth on the bus. The earliest bus got us to the resort right on time for 9:45AM equipment pickup and a 10AM lesson.
The check-in was totally seamless– we recommend filling out all the info and booking in advance so they just have to scan the barcode and give you your equipment. From there, you can hit the slopes or go over to the school area for a lesson. The instructors here are fantastic with beginners, and the slopes are perfect for building confidence. It also wasn’t too crowded, and the on-site restaurant has delicious local food and pastries and even better hot chocolate.
The day absolutely flew by here, and the long twilight hours in winter make for a unique skiing experience! We are already planning to come for a whole week to ski here next year, as a day wasn’t nearly enough.
Day 7: Snowshoeing and Departure
After checking out of our accommodation and dropping off our luggage at the Kuukeli luggage point (5€ per bag per day) we headed over to Outdoor Expert Saariselkä for our 2-hour snowshoeing tour in Urho Kekkonen National Park.
This was such a peaceful and gorgeous way to end the trip. The park is one of Finland’s largest, with over 2,500 square kilometers of wilderness. We trekked through snow-covered forests, spotting reindeer, fox, and bunny tracks and learning about the local flora and fauna. Urho Kekkonen, the park’s namesake, was a former president of Finland and a passionate advocate for preserving Finland’s natural landscapes, and our guide was super knowledgeable, also about Sami culture. We were in a group of 6, which was the perfect size for this activity. Note that while technically you can rent snowshoes and go out into the park on your own, with the winter conditions we felt more comfortable having a guide.
After the snowshoeing, we took one of the town’s many, many walking trails to a true hidden gem– the Mettäbaari Forest Bar. Nestled in the forest, this cozy little place is the perfect spot for a break from the cold and snow. We had delicious hot chocolate and pancakes with jam, which fortified us for the rest of the afternoon outdoors.
In the evening, we took the bus from town to Ivalo Airport for our 6:30 PM flight back to Helsinki. Ivalo Airport is Finland’s northernmost airport and it’s absolutely tiny– it seems primarily flights to Helsinki depart from here. There’s a very convenient bus from town that will take you door to door from the Holiday Village to the airport for 12€ each. The flight back to Helsinki is only about an hour, and from there you can connect to your next destination.
As for us, we absolutely adored Finland and Lapland, and are already dreaming of our next winter adventure here! We hope this helps you plan your dreamy winter trip in snowy, lovely Finland.
