Nestled on the northwestern coast of Sicily, Palermo is a city rich in history, culture, and vibrant local life. The capital of the island, it offers a unique blend of architectural styles, reflecting various influences from the Arabs, Normans, and Spaniards who shaped its development over the centuries. You’ll love exploring bustling markets, such as the famous Ballarò, sampling authentic Sicilian cuisine, and admiring historic landmarks like the Palermo Cathedral and the Teatro Massimo.
With its lively street scenes, beautiful coastline, and a wealth of cultural attractions, Palermo is a warmly inviting place to experience Sicilian life. Whether you’re wandering through its narrow streets or enjoying a meal at a local eatery, Palermo is captivating and fun, well worth a few days spent there.
Founded by the Phoenicians in the 8th century BC as Zyz, the city was strategically positioned for trade and was later conquered by the Romans. After the fall of the Western Roman Empire, Palermo became a significant center under Byzantine rule, known for its vibrant economy and cultural achievements.
In the 9th century, the city was captured by the Arabs, who transformed it into a flourishing center of commerce, science, and culture, introducing advanced agricultural techniques and architectural styles. The Normans took control in the 11th century, and Palermo became the capital of the Kingdom of Sicily, leading to a period of remarkable artistic and architectural growth, exemplified by the Palermo Cathedral and the Palatine Chapel.
Over the centuries, Palermo experienced various rulers, including the Spanish and Bourbons, each leaving their mark on the city. The 19th century saw Palermo become a hub of revolutionary activity. In 1848, a wave of revolutions swept across Europe, and Sicily was no exception. The Sicilian Revolution was fueled by widespread discontent with Bourbon rule and the desire for greater autonomy. Citizens of Palermo rose up against the king, demanding reforms, representation, and the establishment of a constitutional government. This uprising led to the declaration of a short-lived republic.
While the revolutionary movements of the 19th century did not lead to immediate and lasting change for all Sicilians, they laid the groundwork for the eventual unification of Italy in 1861. Palermo’s involvement in these events solidified its reputation as a center of resistance and reform, reflecting the island’s complex socio-political landscape.The 19th century also saw the rise of Italian nationalism, which sought to unify the various states of the Italian peninsula. Sicilian nationalists, inspired by figures like Giuseppe Mazzini and Giuseppe Garibaldi, played a crucial role in this movement. Garibaldi, in particular, became famous for his expedition in 1860, known as the “Expedition of the Thousand,” where he landed in Sicily to rally support for the unification of Italy. Garibaldi’s arrival in Sicily was met with enthusiastic support from many Sicilians, who viewed him as a liberator. Palermo became a focal point during this campaign, with Garibaldi and his troops capturing the city from the Bourbon forces in April 1860. This marked a significant turning point in the struggle for Italian unification.
The period following Italian unification in 1861 set the stage for significant social, political, and economic changes in Sicily and Palermo, as the newly formed nation grappled with regional disparities and the legacy of foreign rule. While the unification sparked hopes for progress and modernization, it also highlighted existing challenges, such as poverty and political instability. As the 20th century unfolded, these tensions would culminate in the rise of Fascism, which sought to unify the nation under a single authoritarian regime.
As a major port city in Sicily, Palermo was strategically important during World War II. The Allies recognized Sicily as a key location for launching operations in the Mediterranean, which led to intense military interest and activity in the region. The Allied invasion of Sicily began on July 9, 1943, and was one of the largest amphibious assaults in history. Palermo was captured by Allied forces on July 22, 1943, after significant fighting. The invasion aimed to weaken Axis forces and secure a foothold in Southern Europe, paving the way for the eventual invasion of mainland Italy. Prior to the Allied invasion, Palermo experienced heavy aerial bombardment from Allied forces, targeting military installations, transportation hubs, and infrastructure to disrupt Axis operations. The bombings caused extensive damage to the city and civilian casualties, leading to significant suffering for the local population.
Following the Allied capture, Palermo was liberated from Fascist control, leading to a brief period of hope and excitement among the citizens, but the aftermath of the war brought both challenges and opportunities for Palermo. The city faced the task of rebuilding and recovering from the destruction caused by the conflict. Efforts were made to restore infrastructure, and the local economy began to shift as the war ended and tourism started to re-emerge in the following decades.
Getting There & Staying There
Palermo’s main airport is Falcone-Borsellino Airport (PMO), located about 35 km (22 miles) northwest of the city center. To get into the city center, you have a few options:
- The Trinacria Express train service is operated by TrenItalia and connects the airport to Palermo Centrale (the central train station) as well as other parts of town. It costs about 6,50€ per ticket (2025 prices) and runs every 30 minutes to 1 hour during peak hours. All in all it will take about 50–60 minutes to get to the city center, but the big plus is that you don’t get stuck in traffic. From there, you can walk or take a tram to your destination. We stayed in the Politeama area, so it was easy for us to get off at the Lolli station and walk about 10 minutes to our Airbnb.
- The Prestia e Comandè bus service also runs regularly between the airport and Palermo city center, stopping at key points like Politeama and Palermo Centrale. It also runs every 30 minutes during the day and takes around 50 minutes, but this is very dependent on traffic, which can be brutal in Palermo. It also costs around 6€ each way, and tickets can be purchased at the airport, or on board the bus. As the train seemed to only be running once every hour in the winter from the airport, we were really relieved to have this as a 2nd option.
- Taxis are also available outside the arrivals terminal and should take about 30–40 minutes to reach Palermo, also depending on traffic, but can cost up to 50€.
In terms of where to stay, Palermo is a big city and each neighborhood offers something unique, whether it’s cultural landmarks, lively markets, or peace and quiet. La Kalsa or Monte di Pietà are great choices for being close to the city’s iconic sites, while Politeama/Libertà or Mondello are excellent options for those seeking something a bit quieter. We really enjoyed staying in Politeama for its wealth of restaurants and wide boulevards, perfect for afternoon strolls.
Here’s a bit more information about the various neighborhood options:
- La Kalsa: Located in the historic center, La Kalsa feels super steeped in history, complete with narrow winding streets, piazzas, and landmarks like the Church of Santa Maria dello Spasimo and Piazza Marina. It’s a great mix of historic charm and local energy, and great for history buffs interested in the Arab-Norman era.
- Politeama/Libertà: This area is more modern and elegant, centered around Politeama Theatre and the wide, tree-lined Via Libertà. It offers great shopping, restaurants, and easy access to public transport, and is a bit quieter than other parts of town. Since we were working while in Sicily, tranquility was high on our priority list, so we opted to stay here.
- Monte di Pietà (near the Cathedral): Home to Palermo’s stunning Cathedral and Quattro Canti, this is the heart of the city. The streets are lined with baroque buildings, markets, and cafés, and it’s historic and lively, bustling with local markets and cultural sights like the Palermo Cathedral, Teatro Massimo, and Mercato del Capo. Tegan stayed here when she first visited on study abroad in 2013 but there’s definitely a lot more hustle and bustle than in Politeama.
- Mondello: For a relaxing seaside experience, Mondello offers sandy beaches and turquoise waters just 20 minutes from the city center. It’s ideal if you want to combine city exploration with a coastal escape and it’s super easy to get back and forth to the city center via bus, but it’s definitely a bit further out.
- Ballarò: Centered around one of Palermo’s oldest and largest markets, Ballarò is authentic and a bit more budget-friendly than other areas. It’s a great place to immerse yourself in the frenetic and sometimes chaotic local life but is definitely a bit noisier than other areas.
What to do in Palermo
Palermo is packed with things to do. Here’s what we think you can’t miss:
- Palermo Cathedral: Explore the stunning architectural styles of this cathedral, which dates back to the 12th century and features elements from various periods, including Gothic, Baroque, and Norman.
- Note: A few other fantastic churches to check out in Palermo include the Church of San Cataldo, a UNESCO World Heritage site for its unique Arab-Norman architecture and distinctive red domes; the Chiesa Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (Chiesa della Martorana) for ornate baroque remodeling and landmark Byzantine mosaics; and the Church of the Gesù (Casa Professa), another beautiful (and very visually stimulating!) example of Sicilian Baroque architecture.
- Norman Palace (Palazzo dei Normanni): This historic palace features beautiful rooms, impressive architecture, and the Palatine Chapel, renowned for its stunning Byzantine mosaics, intricate Arab-style wooden ceilings, and Norman architectural elements. Originally built as an Arab fortress in the 9th century, it was later transformed by the Normans into a grand royal palace in the 12th century. The palace served as the seat of the Kings of Sicily and today houses the Sicilian Regional Assembly. It costs 15,50€ to get into the Palace and Chapel complex (as of 2025), and when we visited the royal apartments were unfortunately closed. While this is a bit steep, seeing the UNESCO Site Palatine Chapel is worth arguably any cost. Absolutely stunning!
- Quattro Canti: This iconic intersection, completed between 1630 and 1660-ish, features beautiful Baroque facades and is largely considered the central point of the historic city center. Officially known as Piazza Vigliena, this intersection marks where the 4 corners of the ancient “cantons” (quarters) of the city meet: the Kalsa (SE), Seralcadi (SW), Albergaria (W), and Castellammare (NE). 4 sides of the octagon comprise the streets, while the remaining 4 sides house 4 nearly identical concave facades, each adorned with statues representing the four Spanish viceroys of Sicily, the four seasons, the four patron female saints of Palermo (Christina, Ninfa, Olivia and Agata), and the four historic districts of the city. It is often referred to as Palermo’s “theater of the sun” because each side is illuminated at different times of the day, and is a lovely place to visit.
- Teatro Massimo: Italy’s largest opera house, the Teatro Massimo, opened in 1897 and is celebrated for its stunning Neoclassical architecture, impressive acoustics, and lavish interiors. Designed by architect Giovanni Battista Filippo Basile, the theater hosts opera, ballet, and musical performances throughout the year, and visitors can also take guided tours to explore its opulent halls, majestic auditorium, and panoramic terrace. The Teatro Massimo was also a filming location for the final scenes of The Godfather Part III.
- Ballarò Market: Palermo’s oldest street market, the Ballarò Market is a lively and chaotic glimpse into the city’s daily life. Located in the historic center, Ballarò is a maze of stalls selling fresh produce, seafood, meats, cheeses, and Sicilian street food like arancini, panelle, and sfincione. Sights, smells, sounds… while a bit overwhelming, it’s very fun. Dating back to Arab rule, Ballarò remains a key part of daily life in Palermo and is really fun to visit even if you only have a few minutes. Keep in mind that it’s absolutely massive, so take a peek at your Google Maps if you start feeling like you’d like to exit. The neighborhood around the market is also quite picturesque and feels very local.
- Capuchin Catacombs: A unique and somewhat macabre attraction, these catacombs house thousands of mummified remains and offer a glimpse into historical burial practices. Dating back to the 16th century, these underground corridors house thousands of mummified bodies, including monks, nobles, and children, preserved in remarkable condition. Originally intended as a burial site for Capuchin friars, the catacombs became a status symbol for Palermo’s elite. The most famous resident is Rosalia Lombardo, a child whose astonishingly well-preserved body has earned her the title of the “Sleeping Beauty.” This type of tourism isn’t exactly our cup of tea, but it’s a very popular attraction if you’re interested!
- Foro Italico: This large waterfront park is perfect for a leisurely stroll or a picnic. It offers beautiful views of the sea and the surrounding area. Originally built in the 16th century and later redesigned, it is a popular spot for locals and visitors alike, especially at sunset.
- Fountain of Shame (Fontana Pretoria): This ornate fountain, located in Piazza Pretoria, is a 16th-century fountain known for its marble sculptures. Originally built in Florence, it was moved to Palermo in 1574 and placed in Piazza Pretoria, surrounded by historic buildings like the Palazzo Pretorio. The fountain features a series of elegant basins adorned with mythological figures, nymphs, tritons, and animals. Due to its many nude statues, it was nicknamed the “Fountain of Shame” (Fontana della Vergogna) by locals.
- Botanical Garden (Orto Botanico): This lush, expansive garden is home to a variety of plants from around the world and provides a peaceful retreat from the city’s hustle and bustle. Founded in 1789, it spans over 30 acres and is home to thousands of plant species from around the world, including exotic palms, towering ficus trees, and rare succulents. The garden also features neoclassical greenhouses, ancient fountains, and serves as both a scientific research center and a public park.
- Museo Archeologico Regionale Antonio Salinas: This archaeological museum showcases an extensive collection of Greek, Roman, Phoenician, and Etruscan artifacts. Housed in a former Baroque monastery, the museum is best known for its impressive Selinunte metopes, large stone reliefs from the ancient Greek temples of Selinunte. Other highlights include Phoenician sarcophagi, Roman mosaics, and intricate ceramics.
- If you have time, check out Zisa Castle: Another great example of Arab-Norman architecture, this castle also has beautiful gardens and is a lovely way to spend a few hours. We unfortunately didn’t have time to visit but a Sicilian friend highly recommends it.
Of course, don’t miss enjoying Sicilian cuisine while in Palermo! In general, be sure to try arancini (fried rice balls), cannoli, and sfincione (Sicilian-style pizza). We loved Cannoli&Co for fun, customizable cannoli. You can choose a type of shell, type of filling, and toppings, and (crucially), they fill the cannolo in front of you, so no sogginess. We really recommend the pistachio filling (not overwhelmingly sweet) and also adored the mini cassata cakes there. La Majolica panini and piadine is a great place for a quick lunch. They have a giant menu, super friendly staff and owners and it’s really budget-friendly and filling.
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Bonus: Day Trips from Palermo
As an add-on if you have the time, take a day trip to Monreale. Just a short drive from Palermo, Monreale is famous for its stunning cathedral, which features impressive mosaics and breathtaking views of the surrounding area. If it’s warm enough, it’s also a world-class beach!
Another quick trip (only 1 hour by train or by car!) is to go to lovely Cefalù. (As a bonus, it’s just so fun to say!) Cefalù is a charming coastal town perhaps best-known as one of the filming locations of the absolutely wonderful Italian film Cinema Paradiso. Often considered one of the greatest films ever made, it also has a wonderful score, composed by genius composer Ennio Morricone and his son, Andrea. The score alone is a tear-jerker, to say nothing of the movie! We definitely recommend checking it out before your trip.
Cefalù has a beautiful old town characterized by narrow cobblestone streets, vibrant piazzas, and a UNESCO World Heritage site Norman cathedral, La Cattedrale di Cefalù. The town is surrounded by dramatic cliffs and swoony seaside, and it’s compact size makes it perfect for a day trip– just 50 minutes by train (or car) from Palermo.
Here’s what you can’t miss in Cefalù:
- Cattedrale di Cefalù: This impressive Norman cathedral, built in the 12th century, is renowned for its stunning mosaics and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
- Cefalù’s historic center is an amazing place for a stroll, where you can admire medieval buildings, quaint shops, and lots of local souvenir stores. Much of the shopping area was closed when we visited on a rainy Sunday in February, but it was still our favorite “centro storico” of the trip.
- Weather permitting, you can hike up to the ancient fortress of the Rocca di Cefalù for breathtaking views of Cefalù and the surrounding coastline. The walk is dotted with ruins of ancient structures, including a Norman castle. While there, you can see the remaining ruins of the Tempio di Diana, located on the Rocca. Unfortunately it was raining extremely hard when we visited, so we weren’t able to do this, but Sicilian friends really recommended it.
- Take a leisurely stroll along the seafront promenade, lined with cafes and restaurants, where you can relax and enjoy a gelato or a coffee while watching the sunset.
If you have even more time, we urge you to read our road trip guide to a week in western Sicily. While oriented around stays in Palermo, Trapani, and Agrigento, this will introduce you to all sorts of other areas as you head down the coastline– Castellammare del Golfo, Scopello, Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro, Erice, Segesta, and more. And of course, no trip to the area would be complete without visiting Agrigento and the Valley of the Temples– a dream come true for us to finally visit.
