How lucky for us to be back in our beloved Sicily! If it were up to us, we’d be here allllll the time, but alas, not quite in the cards for us just yet.

Sicily is truly one-of-a-kind and another Mediterranean gem to add to your bucket list when considering a trip to Southern Europe. It’s Italy’s largest island, encompassing about 26,000 square kilometers of swoony coastline and golden beaches, jaw-dropping archaeological and historical sites, and a rolling countryside dotted with picturesque olive groves and vineyards– perfect for a road trip, though the stereotypes about the Sicilian driving style do tend to be true!

Since moving abroad back in 2021, we’ve always endeavored to spend a week or so in a sunny place during the dark and dreary winters in Amsterdam. We usually rent a car, work during the days, and explore in the evenings and weekend days. (For other inspo, see 2022’s “work-cation” to Andalucía, 2023’s to Athens and Syros, and 2024’s to sunny Malta.)

Sicily proved a bit more challenging than other locations due to seasonal closures– we found that outside of Palermo, most things were closed for the season. However, we’d still recommend Sicily as a place to relax in the wintertime.

While summers can be relentlessly hot, winter days here are sunny and mild, the serene blue of the Mediterranean beckons, and the pace of life is slow and relaxed. And of course, there’s the food… Sicilian cuisine is absolutely superb, reflecting centuries of influence from Arab, Norman, and Spanish cultures and lots of seafood, sweets, and treats. Yum! What more could we want?

This year, we’re thrilled to introduce you to a week’s work-cation in western Sicily. This guide is oriented around staying in the Palermo, Trapani, and Agrigento areas, but also features fun stops in loads of places down the coastline– Castellammare del Golfo, Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro, Erice, Cefalù, and Segesta, among others.

Quick history

Table of Contents

We’ll try to stick to the promised header of this section and be “quick”, but Sicily’s history is absolutely fascinating, so it’s tempting to go overboard 😉

Spanning over 12,000 years of human activity and shaped by its location at the center of Mediterranean’s trade (and unfortunately, conquest) routes, early settlement of Sicily dates back to the Paleolithic and Neolithic periods, with the Sicani and Elymians emerging as the island’s indigenous groups by the second millennium BCE. Around 1100 BCE, Phoenicians established trading outposts along Sicily’s western coast, including the city of Motya.

In the 8th century BCE, Greek settlers began to arrive, founding powerful colonies like Siracusa, Agrigento, and Selinunte. Sicily became a cultural hub, home to philosophers like Empedocles and architectural achievements such as the temples in the Valley of the Temples. During this time, it also became a battleground, with conflicts between Greek cities and Phoenician-backed Carthage.

By the 3rd century BCE, the island fell into the hands of the Romans after the Punic Wars, becoming Rome’s first overseas province. Sicily played a key role in feeding the Roman Empire, thanks to its fertile land and vast grain production.

After the fall of Rome in the 5th century CE, Sicily was ruled by the Ostrogoths and later the Byzantine Empire, who fortified the island to defend against invasion. In 827 CE, Arab forces conquered Sicily, ushering in a golden age. The Arabs introduced innovative agricultural techniques, such as irrigation systems, and brought citrus fruits, almonds, and sugarcane to the island, which are still major cash crops there today. They also left a lasting impact on Sicilian art, architecture, and language, which you can also see today. This Arab influence plays a huge role in making Sicily one of the coolest places to visit in Italy, in our opinion!

In 1061, the Normans began their conquest of Sicily, completing it by 1091. Under rulers like Roger II (Ruggero II), Sicily became quite the melting pot, where Greek, Arab, Latin, and Norman influences coexisted. The Kingdom of Sicily, established in 1130, was one of Europe’s most advanced states, celebrated for its religious tolerance and architectural wonders like Palermo’s Palatine Chapel (more on that later!)

Unfortunately, Sicily’s fortunes waned after being absorbed into the Hohenstaufen Empire in the 12th century (and later the Spanish Crown.) Similarly to other Mediterranean islands like Corsica, the island endured feudal exploitation and was plagued by poverty and neglect. The Kingdom of the Two Sicilies (Regno delle Due Sicilie) was established in 1816 when King Ferdinand IV of Naples (AKA Ferdinand III of Sicily) merged the two crowns after the Napoleonic Wars.

Previously, Naples and Sicily had been ruled as separate entities, often by the same monarch, but with different administrations. The unification under Ferdinand marked the creation of a centralized state, with Naples as its capital, ruled by the Bourbons. Ferdinand I (as he was now known, sort of confusingly!) and his successors worked to centralize power at the expense of local autonomy.

As you may know from French history, the Bourbon monarchs were quite conservative and absolutist, and resisted the liberal and nationalist movements sweeping Europe during the 19th century. Despite having significant natural resources and industries, the kingdom lagged behind northern Italy in industrialization and infrastructure.

This persisted until the unification of Italy in 1861, which deserves books and books to summarize in and of itself. The Bourbon rulers faced growing unrest from within and pressure from abroad. Nationalist movements, spurred by the ideas of Italian unification (the Risorgimento), gained momentum. Corruption, repression, and economic hardship led to revolts in both Naples and Sicily.

In 1860, Giuseppe Garibaldi launched his famous Expedition of the Thousand, a military campaign to unite southern Italy with the rest of the Italian peninsula (and one of our favorite historical topics!) Garibaldi’s forces defeated the Bourbon army, and by 1861, the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies was annexed to the newly formed Kingdom of Italy, under the rule of King Victor Emmanuel II of the House of Savoy.

The period following Italian unification set the stage for significant social, political, and economic changes, as the newly formed nation grappled with regional disparities and the legacy of foreign rule. While the unification sparked hopes for progress and modernization, it also highlighted existing challenges, and as the 20th century unfolded, these tensions would culminate in the rise of Fascism– which sought to unify the nation under a single authoritarian regime.

The island became a focal point for both Allied and Axis powers in their struggle for control of the Mediterranean in World War II– the Allies recognized Sicily as a key location for launching operations, which led to intense military interest and activity in the region. The Allied invasion of Sicily began on July 9, 1943, aimed at weakening Axis forces and securing a foothold in Southern Europe.

British and American forces launched a massive amphibious and airborne assault, encountering resistance from German and Italian troops. After weeks of intense fighting, the Allies captured Palermo (July 22) and secured the island by August 17. The operation led to Mussolini’s downfall and paved the way for the invasion of mainland Italy. Despite logistical challenges, Operation Husky was a crucial turning point in the war, disrupting Axis defenses and shifting momentum in favor of the Allies.

The remainder of the 20th century saw widespread emigration to other parts of Italy and the diaspora, as well as the rise of the Sicilian Mafia. However, something we hear often is that Sicily’s reputation has seen a revival in the last few decades, as its rich history, culture, and landscapes have made it a mecca for tourists and Italophiles like us.

Sicily is so, so different from the rest of Italy, and truly worth spending as much time as you can spare here, you’ll love it!

Getting There & Staying There

Palermo’s main airport is Falcone-Borsellino Airport (PMO), located about 35 km (22 miles) northwest of the city center. It is Sicily’s second-busiest airport after Catania and serves as a key gateway for travelers like us heading into western Sicily.

The airport is bustling and easy to get around, offering various options for getting into Palermo, Agrigento, and other places. Keep in mind the airport is a bit further than other European airports from the Palermo city center.

To get into the city center, you have a few options:

The Trinacria Express train service connects the airport to Palermo Centrale (the central train station) as well as other parts of town, and is directly accessible from the airport terminal. It is operated by the Italian rail service, TrenItalia and costs about 6,50€ per ticket (2025 prices.) It runs every 30 minutes during peak hours and takes about 50–60 minutes to get to the city center. From there, you can likely walk to your destination if you’re staying close by. As we were staying in the Politeama area, it was easy for us to get off at the Lolli station and walk about 10 minutes to our Airbnb.
The Prestia e Comandè bus service also runs regularly between the airport and Palermo city center, stopping at key points like Politeama and Palermo Centrale. It also runs every 30 minutes during the day and takes around 50 minutes, but this is very dependent on traffic, which can be brutal in Palermo. It also costs around 6€ each way, and tickets can be purchased at the airport, or on board the bus. As the train seemed to only be running once every hour in the winter from the airport, we were really relieved to have this as a 2nd option.
Taxis are also available outside the arrivals terminal and should take about 30–40 minutes to reach Palermo, also depending on traffic. Fixed rates are around €40–€50 to the city center. Be sure to confirm the fare with the driver before starting your journey, and naturally, this is a way more pricey option than public transit, so it’s best only if you can’t take the train or bus.
Car rental: We found that most budget car rentals in Palermo pick up around the airport, so if you plan to explore the broader region like we did, renting a car can be a great option. The airport is well-connected to the A29 motorway, providing easy access to Palermo and other destinations like Trapani or Cefalù, but we don’t recommend a car rental if you’re only visiting Palermo. Traffic is really heavy, streets are narrow, parking is tough, and Sicilians are world-famous for their aggressive driving!

In terms of where to stay, we decided on Palermo, Trapani, and Agrigento as our 3 “hubs” on this trip.

Palermo is a big city and each neighborhood offers something unique, whether it’s cultural landmarks, lively markets, or peace and quiet. La Kalsa or Monte di Pietà are great choices for being close to the city’s iconic sites, while Politeama/Libertà or Mondello are excellent options for those seeking something a bit quieter. We really enjoyed staying in Politeama for its wealth of restaurants and wide boulevards, perfect for afternoon strolls.

In Trapani and Agrigento, we opted to stay in smaller Airbnbs with easy parking– because it’s true that the driving in Sicily can be a little hectic! There are loads of options in the countryside towns like Custonaci, San Leone, etc. and we really enjoyed the peace and quiet this type of stay afforded us.

When to Visit

Truly, there is no wrong time of year to visit Sicily, though the summer can get really scorching (and touristy.) The chances of some nice winter sunlight is a big reason why we chose it as our 2025 “work-cation.” We had a lot of rain while we were there, but this was apparently a bit of a freak occurrence– a huge storm happened to blow in the week we were there.

In general, the average annual rainfall in Sicily follows a typical Mediterranean climate pattern, predominantly concentrated in the autumn and winter months, but not often too heavy. Winter is the wettest season, with more frequent rainstorms, particularly in December and January, but we found that it’s usually short-lived rather than a constant drizzle, like where we live in Amsterdam. Sicily’s southwest coast also tends to be drier than the Palermo area, so the chances of rain in places like Agrigento and Trapani are a bit lessened.

Rainfall decreases significantly in spring, and showers tend to be light and sporadic, with minimal to negligible rain in the summers (bad news for droughts, unfortunately.)

There are a few minor pros/cons to different seasons, but really the “best time” to visit depends on your preferences and the type of activities you enjoy. That said, here’s a few things to consider:

Spring | 12–24°C (54–75°F): One of the best times to visit Sicily. The weather is mild, with sunny days and cooler evenings and wildflowers in bloom.
Summer | 24–32°C (75–90°F): Summers are hot and dry, with very little rainfall. Coastal cities like Palermo and Trapani often enjoy cooling breezes, while inland areas like Agrigento can exceed 35°C (95°F.) While perfect for beachgoers, especially in coastal areas like Mondello or Scala dei Turchi, sightseeing can be brutal in the heat.
Autumn | 18–22°C (64–72°F): Early autumn feels like an extension of summer, with warm temperatures and plenty of sunshine, as well as warm enough water for swimming. By late October and November, rain becomes more frequent, but there are still many sunny days. It’s a great time for sightseeing, hiking, and experiencing the grape harvest season.
Winter | 8–16°C (46–61°F): Winters are mild, though rain is more frequent, particularly in December and January. Overall a quieter season with fewer tourists, making it an excellent time for cultural experiences and exploring historical sites.

We visited Sicily in winter (late January to early February) and had several days of mild to warm weather, though, again, we did have quite a bit of rain. While it did put a bit of a damper on our time there, we can’t really complain because the island needs all the rain it can get!

The Perfect Week in Western Sicily

You could return again and again to Sicily… but this time we’ve focused on the western coast “hubs” of Palermo, Trapani, and Agrigento. Since we rented a car, we were able to stop in loads of wonderful places along the way, from hiking the swoony natural reserves at Riserva Naturale Orientata dello Zingaro to cute beachy towns like San Vito Lo Capo, Castellammare del Golfo, photo ops at Scopello and Cefalù, and swoony ancient history at the Valley of the Temples and Segesta.

Despite having the freedom that comes with having a car, we still felt like we barely scratched the surface of this amazing place, and can’t wait to return in a bit more lively of a season.

Read on for our distribution of days as well as a list of the best things to do in each place! But before we continue… it’s important to note that winter is definitely the off-season in Sicily. More and more, it seems that places don’t really have an off-season anymore, that everything is just open year-round and remains largely accessible. We have to admit that we were a bit surprised by how quiet everything was outside of Palermo. We hardly saw another soul at places like Erice and Cefalù, which are known tourist hotspots, and most restaurants and shops were totally boarded up for winrer. While it was still a beautiful and relaxing trip, we do think it merits mentioning that it’s very quiet in the January/February period.

Days 1-3: Palermo

Palermo, the capital of Sicily, was founded by the Phoenicians over 2,700 years ago. Since then, the city has been influenced by various civilizations, including the Romans, Byzantines, Arabs, and Normans. This vibrancy is reflected in its architecture, markets, and yummy cuisine.

Palermo is famous for its historic sites, such as the Palermo Cathedral and the Palatine Chapel, as well as its street life, markets, and local traditions– the food here in particular is top-notch. While the city is less manicured than cities like Taormina or the like, it’s still well-worth a visit.

As you drive from Palermo to Trapani, your next stop, there are a few places to spend a few hours or a day in if you have the time.

A small detour about half an hour from Palermo’s airport (where you’ll likely pick up your rental car), we absolutely adored visiting Segesta. Segesta is (for good reason!) one of Sicily’s most impressive archaeological sites, known for its well-preserved Doric temple and ancient theater, set against a backdrop of rolling hills, blue skies, and gorgeous countryside.

Erice is a picturesque medieval town located on top of Mount Erice, and Scopello, a picturesque fishing village, is known for its Tonnara di Scopello, a historic tuna fishery with beautiful sea views.

The Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro is a real treat– this stunning coastal reserve is known for its rugged cliffs, crystal-clear waters, and diverse wildlife, and the main out-and-back trail is packed with hidden coves and beaches to discover.

San Vito Lo Capo and Castellammare del Golfo are also worth stopping in en route if you can– while places like Scopello had been super hyped on social media, Castellammare del Golfo was actually our favorite place that we visited.

Days 3-6: Trapani area

Trapani also has rich history and beautiful landscapes in spades, as well as the opportunity to check out its huge nearby salt flats– a highlight of our visit. The city has a picturesque historic center with narrow streets, lovely Baroque architecture, and a hip port area. Trapani is also famous for its proximity to the Egadi Islands, but more on that later!

Marsala is perhaps best-known for its production of the aptly-named Marsala wine. The town’s history dates back to ancient times, and, like Trapani, also has beautiful Baroque architecture, charming streets, and a picturesque harbor. If you have to choose between the two, we personally liked Trapani.

Note: If you have time while here, a few hours in the Favignana Islands is highly recommended, and we are so bummed the weather didn’t cooperate for us to do this. The Favignana Islands are the largest of the Egadi Islands, located near Marsala and Trapani, and are famous for tuna fishing, which you can see in historic tuna traps, called tonnare. In summer, outdoor activities such as swimming and snorkeling are a must, but cycling is the top recommendation for a winter visit– just rent bicycles from the ferry depot. Living in the Netherlands, we can’t go more than a few days without biking… so this seemed like an awesome idea.

Ferries depart from Marsala and Trapani regularly, but it’s a bit easier to get there from Trapani. A Sicilian friend recommended squeezing this in, and we really hope we’re able to go next time.

Days 6-7: Agrigento

Moving down to the southern coast a few hours’ drive from Trapani, Agrigento is a place we’ve wanted to visit for years. Renowned for its imposing Valley of the Temples, this was definitely one of our top Europe bucket list items! Founded by the Greeks in the 6th century BC, Agrigento was once one of the most powerful cities in the ancient world. Today, you’ll still see a veritable playground of well-preserved temples and lovely hilltop views.

While en route here, you can also visit Selinunte, an ancient Greek archaeological site located between Marsala and Agrigento. We skipped this one this trip, opting to visit Segesta and the Valley of the Temples, but would definitely check it out next time we’re there.

Day 8 Bonus: Cefalù

Cefalù is a cute-as-can-be coastal town perhaps best-known as one of the filming locations of the nostalgic and wonderful Italian film Cinema Paradiso. Be sure to watch the film before you visit, it’s one of Tegan’s favorites and is often considered one of the greatest films ever made. If you don’t have time to watch the movie, consider listening to the score, composed by genius composer Ennio Morricone and his son, Andrea. The score alone is a tear-jerker, to say nothing of the movie!

Cefalù has a beautiful old town characterized by narrow cobblestone streets, vibrant piazzas, and a UNESCO World Heritage site Norman cathedral, La Cattedrale di Cefalù. The town is surrounded by dramatic cliffs and swoony seaside, and while it’s quite small, it’s worth a stop on your way back into Palermo. It does get quite crowded due to its notoriety, so keep that in mind as well, though when we visited in early February it was very quiet.

What to do while you're in Western Sicily

Palermo

Here’s what you can’t miss in Palermo:

Palermo Cathedral: Explore the stunning architectural styles of this cathedral, which dates back to the 12th century and features elements from various periods, including Gothic, Baroque, and Norman.
- Note: A few other fantastic churches to check out in Palermo include the Church of San Cataldo, a UNESCO World Heritage site for its unique Arab-Norman architecture and distinctive red domes; the Chiesa Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio (Chiesa della Martorana) for ornate baroque remodeling and landmark Byzantine mosaics; and the Church of the Gesù (Casa Professa), another beautiful (and very visually stimulating!) example of Sicilian Baroque architecture.
Norman Palace (Palazzo dei Normanni): This historic palace features beautiful rooms, impressive architecture, and the Palatine Chapel, renowned for its stunning Byzantine mosaics, intricate Arab-style wooden ceilings, and Norman architectural elements. Originally built as an Arab fortress in the 9th century, it was later transformed by the Normans into a grand royal palace in the 12th century. The palace served as the seat of the Kings of Sicily and today houses the Sicilian Regional Assembly. It costs 15,50€ to get into the Palace and Chapel complex (as of 2025), and when we visited the royal apartments were unfortunately closed. While this is a bit steep, seeing the UNESCO Site Palatine Chapel is worth arguably any cost. Absolutely stunning!
Quattro Canti: This iconic intersection, completed between 1630 and 1660-ish, features beautiful Baroque facades and is largely considered the central point of the historic city center. Officially known as Piazza Vigliena, this intersection marks where the 4 corners of the ancient “cantons” (quarters) of the city meet: the Kalsa (SE), Seralcadi (SW), Albergaria (W), and Castellammare (NE). 4 sides of the octagon comprise the streets, while the remaining 4 sides house 4 nearly identical concave facades, each adorned with statues representing the four Spanish viceroys of Sicily, the four seasons, the four patron female saints of Palermo (Christina, Ninfa, Olivia and Agata), and the four historic districts of the city. It is often referred to as Palermo’s “theater of the sun” because each side is illuminated at different times of the day, and is a lovely place to visit.
Teatro Massimo: Italy’s largest opera house, the Teatro Massimo, opened in 1897 and is celebrated for its stunning Neoclassical architecture, impressive acoustics, and lavish interiors. Designed by architect Giovanni Battista Filippo Basile, the theater hosts opera, ballet, and musical performances throughout the year, and visitors can also take guided tours to explore its opulent halls, majestic auditorium, and panoramic terrace. The Teatro Massimo was also a filming location for the final scenes of The Godfather Part III.
Ballarò Market: Palermo’s oldest street market, the Ballarò Market is a lively and chaotic glimpse into the city’s daily life. Located in the historic center, Ballarò is a maze of stalls selling fresh produce, seafood, meats, cheeses, and Sicilian street food like arancini, panelle, and sfincione. Sights, smells, sounds… while a bit overwhelming, it’s very fun. Dating back to Arab rule, Ballarò remains a key part of daily life in Palermo and is really fun to visit even if you only have a few minutes. Keep in mind that it’s absolutely massive, so take a peek at your Google Maps if you start feeling like you’d like to exit. The neighborhood around the market is also quite picturesque and feels very local.
Capuchin Catacombs: A unique and somewhat macabre attraction, these catacombs house thousands of mummified remains and offer a glimpse into historical burial practices. Dating back to the 16th century, these underground corridors house thousands of mummified bodies, including monks, nobles, and children, preserved in remarkable condition. Originally intended as a burial site for Capuchin friars, the catacombs became a status symbol for Palermo’s elite. The most famous resident is Rosalia Lombardo, a child whose astonishingly well-preserved body has earned her the title of the “Sleeping Beauty.” This type of tourism isn’t exactly our cup of tea, but it’s a very popular attraction if you’re interested!
Foro Italico: This large waterfront park is perfect for a leisurely stroll or a picnic. It offers beautiful views of the sea and the surrounding area. Originally built in the 16th century and later redesigned, it is a popular spot for locals and visitors alike, especially at sunset.
Fountain of Shame (Fontana Pretoria): This ornate fountain, located in Piazza Pretoria, is a 16th-century fountain known for its marble sculptures. Originally built in Florence, it was moved to Palermo in 1574 and placed in Piazza Pretoria, surrounded by historic buildings like the Palazzo Pretorio. The fountain features a series of elegant basins adorned with mythological figures, nymphs, tritons, and animals. Due to its many nude statues, it was nicknamed the “Fountain of Shame” (Fontana della Vergogna) by locals.
Botanical Garden (Orto Botanico): This lush, expansive garden is home to a variety of plants from around the world and provides a peaceful retreat from the city’s hustle and bustle. Founded in 1789, it spans over 30 acres and is home to thousands of plant species from around the world, including exotic palms, towering ficus trees, and rare succulents. The garden also features neoclassical greenhouses, ancient fountains, and serves as both a scientific research center and a public park.
Museo Archeologico Regionale Antonio Salinas: This archaeological museum showcases an extensive collection of Greek, Roman, Phoenician, and Etruscan artifacts. Housed in a former Baroque monastery, the museum is best known for its impressive Selinunte metopes, large stone reliefs from the ancient Greek temples of Selinunte. Other highlights include Phoenician sarcophagi, Roman mosaics, and intricate ceramics.
If you have time, check out Zisa Castle: Another great example of Arab-Norman architecture, this castle also has beautiful gardens and is a lovely way to spend a few hours. We unfortunately didn’t have time to visit but a Sicilian friend highly recommends it.

Of course, don’t miss enjoying Sicilian cuisine while in Palermo! In general, be sure to try arancini (fried rice balls), cannoli, and sfincione (Sicilian-style pizza). We loved Cannoli&Co for fun, customizable cannoli. You can choose a type of shell, type of filling, and toppings, and (crucially), they fill the cannolo in front of you, so no sogginess. We really recommend the pistachio filling (not overwhelmingly sweet) and also adored the mini cassata cakes there. La Majolica panini and piadine is a great place for a quick lunch. They have a giant menu, super friendly staff and owners and it’s really budget-friendly and filling.

As an add-on if you have the time, take a day trip to Monreale. Just a short drive from Palermo, Monreale is famous for its stunning cathedral, which features impressive mosaics and great views of the surrounding area.

Segesta

Segesta was a last-minute add-on for us, and boy are we glad we did! Located just half an hour outside Palermo, the complex features a Doric temple and ancient theater with gorgeous views of the surrounding countryside. Founded by the Elymians, an ancient people of western Sicily, Segesta was later influenced by Greek and Roman cultures, though it never became a fully Greek city– Selinunte further down the coast is presented as a “rival.” We adored Segesta and can’t recommend it enough.

There are two parts to your visit:

The Doric Temple: Dating back to the 5th century BC, this majestic, unfinished temple stands remarkably intact– we were blown away by how great of condition it’s still in.
The Ancient Theater: Located on a steep hilltop, this Greek-style theater is also remarkably intact, and even still hosts performances in the summer.

A note for your visit: when you park and go up to the ticket booth, they will ask you if you want a shuttle bus add-on to your ticket (3€ per person in 2025, and the ticket costs 15€.) The hike from the ticket office up to the theatre is about 2 kilometers round-trip and pretty steep. For those with limited mobility, the shuttle gives you much easier access. We chose to walk up and it was lovely, so we definitely recommend this!

A short drive away, you can also check out the local hot springs (Terme Segestane).

Erice

Here’s what you can’t miss in Erice:

Castle of Venus (Castello di Venere): Check out the ruins of this medieval castle, built on the site of an ancient temple dedicated to the goddess Venus.
Mother Church (Chiesa Madre): Visit this beautiful church dedicated to Saint Mary of the Assumption, featuring Baroque architecture and intricate interior decorations.
Belvedere views: Head to the scenic viewpoints scattered throughout the town, offering beautiful vistas of the surrounding countryside, mountains, and the coast of Trapani.
Pepoli Castle (Castello di Pepoli): Explore the remains of this ancient castle, which offers another perspective of the town’s historical significance and beautiful landscapes. You can also visit the Torretta Pepoli, a medieval watchtower with excellent views of the surrounding area.
Temple of Venus: Although only ruins remain, the site where the ancient Temple of Venus once stood is worth a visit for its historical significance and stunning views.

A short drive from Erice, explore the Santuario di Maria Santissima di Custonaci, a sanctuary dedicated to the Virgin Mary.

Note: if you are visiting Erice from Trapani, you can also take the Funivia Trapani-Erice, a cable car from Trapani to Erice that features a scenic journey with fantastic views of the coastline and the surrounding landscape. The funicular was closed for repairs when we visited, but we would recommend doing this instead of driving up the mountain in the high season, as parking in Erice is relatively limited and the drive is pretty steep.

Zingaro Reserve

The Zingaro Nature Reserve (Riserva Naturale dello Zingaro), located between Scopello and San Vito Lo Capo, features rugged cliffs, crystal-clear coves, scenic hiking trails, and secluded beaches. It’s truly the perfect day, hiking along and admiring the Mediterranean from above. We had the place almost entirely to ourselves when we visited in winter of 2025, and this was definitely a highlight of the trip.

The reserve was established in 1981 after a local grassroots movement successfully blocked plans to build a coastal road through the area. In the 1970s, conservationists, locals, and activists protested against the proposed development, as it would for sure destroy the pristine landscapes and rich biodiversity of the area. A major demonstration in 1980 saw over 3000 people marching along the coastline, and their efforts led to the creation of Sicily’s first protected natural reserve. You can still see the halted construction project today, as well as some information about the grassroots movement, as you enter the park– it’s displayed in a very cool way. Interestingly, a road connecting San Vito and Castellammare still doesn’t exist, meaning that a fairly long detour is necessary to go between them– but this is a small price to pay to keep this gorgeous park thriving.

The main trail in the Zingaro Nature Reserve is a 7 km (one way) coastal path stretching from the South Entrance (near Scopello) to the North Entrance (near San Vito Lo Capo). This out-and-back trail offers amazing views of the Mediterranean Sea, limestone cliffs, and lush vegetation. Along the way, you can hike down to access secluded coves like Cala Tonnarella dell’Uzzo and Cala Marinella for swimming, or stick to the trail. The trail is well-marked, moderately challenging, and takes about 2 hours each way. For a shorter hike, turn around at any point and head back to the visitor center. It costs 5€ each to enter, and be sure to bring water with you. We imagine this can be quite brutal in the summer, as it’s quite exposed– so if you’re visiting in summer be sure to bring sunscreen and at least 2 liters of water per person.

Trapani and/or Marsala

We spent less time in these two places, as we wanted to take advantage of seeing more nature-based places like Zingaro. However, they’re both well worth a visit!

Here’s what you can’t miss in Trapani:

Piazza Vittorio Emanuele and Piazza Mercato del Pesce in the city center.
The Cathedral of San Lorenzo, yet another Baroque cathedral.
Salt Pans of Trapani (Saline di Trapani), the picturesque salt pans where salt has been harvested for centuries. The area is also home to diverse bird species and provides excellent photo opportunities, especially during sunset.
Museo Regionale Conte Agostino Pepoli: This regional museum houses a collection of art, archaeology, and decorative arts, showcasing the history and culture of Trapani and its surrounding areas.
Take a leisurely walk along the seafront promenade, the Lungomare, enjoying stunning views of the Mediterranean Sea and the harbor, especially at sunset.
Torre di Ligny: Explore this historic watchtower at the edge of the harbor, which now houses a small museum showcasing Trapani’s maritime history and stunning views of the coast.
Trapani Fish Market: If you’re here in the early morning, visit the bustling fish market to see local fishermen selling their fresh catch What to do in Marsala

Here’s what you can’t miss in Marsala:

Marsala Wine Cellars: Tour local wineries such as Cantine Florio or Cantine Pellegrino to learn about the wine-making process and sample various Marsala wines, including dry and sweet varieties. We recommend booking this ahead of time.
Visit the Piazza della Repubblica, the town’s main square.
The Cathedral of Marsala (Cattedrale di San Tommaso), located in the historic center, features stunning Baroque architecture and impressive artwork.
Visit the Chiesa del Purgatorio: dedicated to the souls in Purgatory, this church is a bit different to other Baroque churches and very intriguing.
Weather permitting, go spend some time at the Lido di Marausa, a popular beach area known for its shallow waters and soft sand.
If you missed the salt pans near Trapani, you can also check out the Saline di Marsala, where sea salt has been harvested for centuries. The colorful salt flats are particularly stunning at sunset as well, and in the high season there are loads of cool restaurants to visit with panoramic views.

Bonus: Favignana

As we mentioned above, Favignana is a great option for a day trip. First off, though, we thought it best to share how to best get to Favignana from the mainland. The easiest/most common way to get back and forth is by ferry from the port of Trapani. The ferry ride takes about 30-40 minutes. Some ferry services also operate from the port of Marsala, but this route is less frequent particularly in winter.

Several ferry companies operate routes to Favignana, including:

Liberty Lines: Offers fast ferries with regular departures throughout the day.
Siremar: Operates slower ferries that may also connect with other Egadi Islands.

Be sure to check the schedules in advance, whether in high or low season, as ferry times can vary based on the day and season– getting very packed in the summer and running different schedules in winter. Tickets can be purchased at the port or online through the ferry company’s websites.

Agrigento

Here’s what you can’t miss in Agrigento:

Valley of the Temples (Valle dei Templi): It probably goes without saying, but this is of course the top thing to do in this area! It’s a UNESCO World Heritage site, and home to some of the best-preserved ancient Greek temples, including the Temple of Concordia, the Temple of Juno, and the Temple of Heracles. Don’t miss the Kolymbethra Garden, located within the Valley of the Temples, featuring citrus trees, olive groves, and ancient water channels. We adored visiting here! It had long been on both our bucket lists, and the rain stopped just long enough for our tour.

Once inside the Valley of the Temples everything is, of course, stupendous– and an absolute can’t-miss if you’re in Sicily (it’s fairly equidistant from Catania and Palermo.) We do feel a bit obliged to warn you about expectation moderation, however. We were very (not pleasantly) surprised by the condition of the infrastructure around the park. Here are a few things we wish we had known:
- There are almost no road signs announcing the park, leading to a lengthy and frustrating detour when we missed our roundabout exit– we had to navigate all the way around the back of Agrigento to get back to the same roundabout, which ultimately lost us 30 minutes. Be sure to follow your map very carefully (we ultimately parked at Gate 5 and entered that way.)
- The parking is similarly poorly marked and a bit hard to find. It costs 3€ per hour and is a dirt lot without any formal lines for spots, so it may be best to back in. Be sure to pay the fare at the kiosk prior to getting back in your car, as you need to prepay to open the gate.
- As you park someone will approach you asking if you want to pay 3€ for a taxi to get to the other extreme of the park, as it’s an out-and-back walking path (i.e., you’ll have to walk all the way from one end to the other, then walk all the way back to get to your car.) Being avid walkers we of course opted to walk, but this felt a bit scammy to add to the park entrance fee for those who have limited mobility.
- Once inside the park, the signs at each attraction are so old and faded that they’re almost unreadable, so the 5€ audio-tour add-on to your 18€ ticket may in fact be necessary.
- When we visited in February, it was very quiet, but we can imagine that this can be a very frustrating experience in peak season when the park is mobbed with visitors. Whenever you visit, bring lots of water inside with you, as well as tissues/toilet paper for the restrooms.
Located near the Valley of the Temples, the Archaeological Museum (Museo Archeologico Regionale) houses a vast collection of artifacts from ancient Greek and Roman sites in the region, including pottery, sculptures, and coins, providing valuable context to the archaeological sites.
Scala dei Turchi: A short drive from the Valley of the Temples (about 20 minutes driving), you’ll find a beautiful limestone cliff located along the coast. This was a very, very popular Instagram site, and as sometimes happens… the reality is much less filtered. While obviously super gorgeous and well-worth a visit, don’t necessarily expect blindingly bright white cliffs and turquoise waters, this seems to be an example of the magic of modern editing. You used to be able to climb down the “stairs”, but erosion has led Italian authorities to (sadly, but wisely) cut off access. You can still get a nice view of the coastline from the top, but keep in mind that parking is a bit tough.
Casa Natale di Luigi Pirandello: If you have time, you can also visit the birthplace of the famous playwright and novelist Luigi Pirandello, which has been turned into a small museum celebrating his life and works.

While in the area, it’s also nice to go for a leisurely stroll along one of the coastal promenades in the towns around Agrigento, like Villaggio Mosè or San Leone.

Cefalù

Here’s what you can’t miss in Cefalù:

Cattedrale di Cefalù: This impressive Norman cathedral, built in the 12th century, is renowned for its stunning mosaics and is a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Cefalù’s historic center is an amazing place for a stroll, where you can admire medieval buildings, quaint shops, and lots of local souvenir stores. Much of the shopping area was closed when we visited on a rainy Sunday in February, but it was still our favorite “centro storico” of the trip.
Weather permitting, you can hike up to the ancient fortress of the Rocca di Cefalù for breathtaking views of Cefalù and the surrounding coastline. The walk is dotted with ruins of ancient structures, including a Norman castle. While there, you can see the remaining ruins of the Tempio di Diana, located on the Rocca. Unfortunately it was raining extremely hard when we visited, so we weren’t able to do this, but Sicilian friends really recommended it.
Take a leisurely stroll along the promenade, lined with cafes and restaurants, where you can relax and enjoy a gelato or a coffee while watching the sunset.

We hope you enjoyed this guide to a whirlwind week in western Sicily. For more Sicily and Italy content (we’ve got loads!), check out our Italy landing page or guides to places like Taormina, the Dolomites, Rome, Puglia, Lake Como, and many more. You can pin this guide by clicking either photo below.

Road Trip Guide to Western Sicily